rob82

Thats a dumb idea - you really want your reference from just before the throttle body in most applications.

Good luck tuning it with the MAf on that bend.

You do realise that a good BOV will be open below 10" of vacuum - so it will be open at idle unless you have big cams, thats why you need to plumb them back in a MAF based system. A well designed valve style BOV will have a larger diaphram area than valve area so that the spring force is unnecessary as there is more pressure force on top of the valve than below.

Stop wasting your money on turbosmart crap and alot of the popular wanker brands - none of them work. If you are still running a MAF based system and you dont care about the wanker sound than get a steel top EVO9 BOV - it is a proper valve style BOV that actually opens under around 10" of vacuum as a BOV is meant to. It has to plumb back tho. I remember testing a turbo smart item that didn't budged at all with 26" of vacuum with it loose as it will go. I couldn't believe the difference an EVO9 BOV made on my car - no MAF reversion issues and so much quicker onto boost after a gear change.

Spoken like a true mechanical engineer however your neglecting the fact that an 044 can draw up to 15amps continuous(obviously depandant mainly upon fuel pressure) - thats a shitload of heat that needs to go somewhere - I bet you can guess where it goes.

Plenty of hi performance gen3 and gen4 egnines run this setup. Some of the supercars use this setup as well.

You could try a one way fuel system - what alot of modern cars are using. Basically you mount the FPR at the rear of the vehcile so that the fuel gets pressurised sent to the front - that way fuel only goes forward and not cycled around and around.

The pins 1-6 on the ignitor, ECU side will be open circuit when measure to gnd with ign on so they will read 0V. Did you disconnect the Ignitor when doing this check - if so the number 6 coil driver within the ecu is stuffed.

The ecu drives to ground when it wants to energise the coil. The signal then goes to the igntior (darlington transistor) where it is beefed up. If the wire between the ecu and ignitor is constantly ground (check with igntion on) then theres your problem. If the sig wire to the coil out of the ignitior for cyl6 is gnd at igntion on then its either a wire shorting to gnd or the ignitor is stuff.

You got it. If the cyl was on and off I would say maybe a bad transistor within the ECU or igntior but if the coil is melting and not firing at all on that cylinder than I would be looking at a permanant power supply such as a short.

Tee you boost gauge in so you can watch the pressure than add a bike pump or air compressor with a blower nozzle if you have one and listen for leaks. If you dont hear any leaks by 20psi than its fine.

Either bad ignitior or ecu or the signal wire for cyl6 in between the igntior and ecu is grounded.

You most likely have a split diaphram within the actuator. Meaning that some air maybe bleeding away causing the wastegate not to open as much as it should. Get an upgrade actuator or one that isn't split you can test them by putting 20psi into them and listening for leaking air. You do realise that with a 3" exh on a std R33 ECU running more than 10-11psi you will actually start loosing power - thats if the AFM is still in good condition.

Hmmm there is a reason that most jap cars generally run a two speed fuel pump control. The issues you have are from sending too much fuel to the front of the car. Have you thought about making a one way fuel system and pissing off your return line?

I bet you have a split diaphram causing it not to open fully - usually becomes an issue at peak turbo efficency as the wastegate port needs to open the most at this point to maintain actuator pressure. The idea of blocking the exh to fix another issue is just stupid.

Are you sure the neo is variable? Where is the cam angle sensor?

Hi guys just wondering whats involved in putting an RB25 gearbox into an R32 GTST. I've heard the tailshaft may need to be modified. Does the 25 speedo sensor have the same pulse/rev compared to the rb20? Also does anybody know the ratio difference between the rb20 and rb25 gearbox???

I know it only moves the intake cam - what I mean is that if you have an adj Exh cam gear you can retard that side and then let the intake VCT advance to get you low end overlap. The wider the cam lobe seperation the more affect the VCT will have.

Definately worthwhile if you can get it to work. It will allow you to retard both cams to breath up top while allowing lowend overlap for more power and response down low. What compression ratio are you aiming for? That size cam on the rb30 twin cam will easily accept 11:1 on pump and probably more. What intake manifold are you using?

Run the car up on the dyno with the VCT off then with it on, note the rpm at which the dyno graph cross over and set it at that - you could run full advance till the rev limiter and not cause damage.

I was just taking the piss mate!!! Sounds like you need to get your tuning done elsewhere tho. Mate if he hydraulic locked an engine due to throttle enrichment he must have been using like 2000cc/min injectors with a chamber volume of like 40cc. You could be 10degrees past MBT and still not bend an rb26 rod - you will however be replacing the pistons!!

Typical engine builder blaming bent rods on a bad tune!!!! In an Rb26 you would bust pistons (even aftermarket) well B4 you bend those little rods (even the factory rods).

Thats is 100% not true.

Check you BOV actually opens under like 10" of vacuum - most aftermarket ones dont because they are crap - aka turbosmart.