rob82

Price now $16500.

Were you on crack when you posted this?? At 6000rpm you have a 20ms period available at 3000rpm you have double that period.

All genuine offers cosidered. It is an absolute weapon on road. If your keen and on the south side of Brisbane I can arrange a test drive.

One other though I had with this setup was to run variable volume runners by using the ITB with the butterfly cut in half and convert it to a single throttle body setup. I actually did design some internal trumpets that halved the port diamter but never got them made up, would have been interesting tho.

Hmmmm you could just buy my car. RB30/26DETT 9:1comp ITB twin -5's you wont get better response for the power. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...le-t290873.html

Hey guys here the ad on carsale: http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/result...l&D=6763880 Will sell it to an SAU member for $17000.

Hmm that horsepower level will cost around the $50K minimum. I would suggest a more realistic power level is what is required.

Sounds like a bad CAS or badly worn camshaft/CAS drive engagement - I would also be checking cambelt tension.

An EBC wont make that much difference - esspecially if you've allready put more preload on the actuators and your still only getting boost at 5000rpm. Still sounds like you've got an issue.

XR6 IC's run out of efficiency at around 250rwkw on XR6's - sure you can push them close to 300rwkw but the next dyno run will drop about 30rwkw. I can tell you from the XR's I've tuned at around 10psi of boost the intake temp will rise about 30degrees after a 8second dyno run!!! There are better options in my opion - even some of the cheap chinese cores are better than that.

Is the pump failure generally on thrust side of the gear. I haven't seen one fail yet but from the pictures I've seen it looks as though the its a clearance based issue.

The AAC valve is there to control idle rpm - if it is disconnected it is not doing its job! As for the missing idle whats your plug gap on and is there a vacuum leak.

Ha ha 850cc sards - if they are side feeds throw them in the bin they are crap!!!

Things to check - Apply direct power to the solenoid and make sure you can hear the engine change note. If you can get data out of the valcon see if you can see how much cam advance you can get you should be able to get to the maximum advance even at idle. The output from the valcon will most likely be a saturated driver so you should have 12v one side of the solenoid and the gnd channel controlled by the valcon. More than likely the maximum duty wont be 100% but more likely 55-65% and the minimum duty 45-35% when its controlling the cam. I would command the maximum cam advance and then scope the output and see if the controller maxes out at say 55-65% if it is then the problem is more than likely mechanical as it cant get the cam to its maximum advance. Its not common from the numerous subarus I've tuned that cam phasors are starting to fail and not consistantly delivery the commanded cam advance.

Suck it and see - keep reving it until the power drops off or it starts to vavle float either way if every thing is built correctly then you wont hurt anything.

The Rb25 have an idle ignition lookup table that is based on rpm error from desired idle speed. If your idle is higher than commanded idle than the timing will be reduced to get it back to the desired rpm. Remove some bypass idle air with the adjustment screw and watch the timing go back up to 15. If you look I bet your AAC value is very low - possibly even 0. At a hot idle AC off you should have at least 20% Duty of the AAC vavle. Thats why on these cars its imperative when checking the timing that your know what the ECU is commanding.

I'm pretty sure the LT12's have 6 igntion drivers however for some reason and I can only comment on the lt12's I've seen that they run wasted spark. So even if you wire in to 6 drivers you only get 3 - so they probably just bridge them internally meaning that cylinders 1 - 6 , 2 - 5 and 3 - 4 fire at the same time(ie 1 cylinder is on compression the other on exhuast stroke). The way most ecus work is to power 1 side of the coil with the negative side of the coil going back to the ecu. So the coil is energised when the igntion driver grounds the coil for x amount of time, with x being the dwell on the coil. The coils in skylines however have an igntion feed, ground and trigger. The trigger dependig upon the coil can be negative or positive and for skylines I cant remember if its a positive or negative. To me it sounds like the drivers for cylinders 3-4 are oppisite to the other drivers meaning that instead of having 12.5% on time at 3000rpm you have 87.5% on time - scary!!!

A race car with an Rb26 will average 6000rpm at the track and they dont melt coils with about the same dwell/recharge rate as a wasted spark system at 3000rpm. You got issues and I dont reckon its dwell!! If the dwell is only 2.5ms.

At 3000rpm the duty cycle on the coils with a wasted spark setup at 2.5ms dwell is 12.5%, as in 12.5% of the time the coils are on and 87.5% the coils are off. Cant see that this amount of dwell wasted spark or not is going to cause them to fry. There is a possiblility that timing on those two cylinders is incorrect as well!

Hmm interesting that its 3 and 4 as in a wasteged spark setup these will be the paried coils. From what I've seen even on the supposed 6 igntion outputs is that the microtech still seem to run wasteged spark. You could check this with a snap on timing light - (Just check the rpm and see if its double the actual rpm). Its time to scope the ignition drive and see whats happening. Dont expet to see the dwell time to exactly matched the software dwell time but it should be within +/- 0.2ms. I dont know whether the skylines are a positive or negative trigger but you may find that the oppisite of what it should be is occuring on cyls 3 and 4 causing incorrect dwell control (acually from the r33 transistor diagrams it looks like a positive trigger). IF you have a 2 channel scope compare the microtech ignition drive of say coil 1 vs coil 3 and see what you get.

Yes but different cars may have different diff gears and tyre rolling diameter so while 4th gear is usually 1:1 the rpm/rev ratio may be different car to car. What is the purpose of this thread??? Are you comparing turbos or engine setups or what?

I just dont see the point in comparing when for example there could be the difference between the 35R run on a happy dyno when compared to a TO4Z strapped tightly on a low dyno and they both read the same power now is that to say that the 35R is the same size as the TO4Z??? Thats why I hate these threads becasue the results are arbitary!!!

I'm not trying to discredit what your trying to do - but different dynos, different days, different strapping methods, different setup methods, possibly different rolling diameters, different drive ratios, different tunes, different cam timing, different ramp rates, different tyre temps - the list is endless!!! I can tell you from expereince that on a Dyno dynamics dyno that even getting consistant runs from day to day with no modifications performed is a task in it self. I usually get within +/-2.5% of the previous runs with the methods we employ with no changes. You need to get all these cars on the same dyno within 2hours of each other for real comparison. I would get the tacho numbers precisely calibrated so you can compare in rpm not vehicle speed.

550cc Injectors at 3bar base pressure will support 350rwkw on pump98 (BSFC=0.55) - so I would be checking your fuel flow or the tune or your regulator!!! 550cc Injectors at 4bar will support 400rwkw on E85 (BSFC=0.6). Can you see yourself making more horsepower than this??? I would always select the samllest injector for the required horsepower in allmost all situations.

AFM doesn't get referenced in PFC or std ECU on crank so it should start then stop if there where AFM issues. To me it sounds more like an ignition issue - as the bang is usually the spark plug firing with the exhuast vavle open. Let me guess - haltech ECU?