rob82

What inlet manifold?

The power that an injector makes has allmost nothing to do with the quality of an injectors operation. Maybe you would like to tell us your fuel consumption figures? And there are definately better brands than others - stay well away from allmost all sard sidefeeds. That being said some high flowed injectors work fine when done correctly. The nismo 555cc would be my pick for around 350rwkw.

Is the half moon key still in the CAS and in the camshaft?

Why the hell do you have two aeromotive pumps when 1 is capable of that horsepower. Why wouldn't you just you just stage the big pump and run an 044 as a primary? Surely a 1500hp car isn't going to be hanging around the streets for too long anyway As far as formula's go. Multiply your injector size by the amount of injectors you have then add 30%.

Waste of time match your fuel pumps flow rate to your power output with a safety margin of 30% and you won't have any issues with hot fuel.

Start with the basics - disconnect all injectors and remove cas turn cas over by hand with ignition on and make sure your firing order is 153624. If it is put the cas back in to where it was with the PFC. Check timing with timing light adjust cas ref angle in the haltech until the timing matches. Next check that number 1 is firing on comp this should be at 15btdc with cam timing mark not lined up(pointing downwards).eng should now start if plugs are ok ps - I never use haltech because of triggering issues I've seen with them & unrequested multiple throttle enrichement pulse. Can't comment on the new one tho. Good luck

The sards are absolute crap - think sard even say they have a minimum on time of 1.6ms because the are non linear below that on time. 1.6ms on an 850cc inj is just to big for a 2.5 6 cyl. Get the nismo 740s expensive but they work.

From the sounds of it you have just set the timing about 10degrees advanced. To properly check the timing you must do it with a scan tool as RB25's have idle ignition control.

Do a leak down test - that will tell you where the pressure is going.

What ecu? Any chance its say 10-15deg retarded?

Its all to do with thermal expansion - obviously higher horsepower cars will have higher EGTS meaning valve stem expansion will be greater. I agree with paul the clearances you have will be fine.

Reading this thread is like masturbating with a cheese grater - slightly amusing........ but mostly painful!!

Has anybody tryed Forced Performances HTA GT3586R 1.0A/R T4 Divided housing turbo on a resonably built RB26(9.5:1 comp, 270dur cams with 10.8mm lift)? They are quoting 75lb/min with that compressor? I have had very good results with 20G evo greeens on evo8 and 9 but never tryed any of there other stuff. Aiming for 500rwkw on E85.

My god son get it to a tuner it's obvious that the tune is on default maps - and by the sounds of it if there is no fuel leak than you must be hosing those bores with fuel. If it's got an issue withtge maps not storing than ashas been said check the keep alive batteryinput into the ecu - if it's good get a new PFC.

Sounds lean - I reckon you've got a fuel leak between the rail and pump to go thru that much fuel!

I'm not disagreeing with the your recomendations just the blanket statement "....yes big camshafts help bring an engine on earlier. We have tested our theory and have proven it to be correct". In alot of situations this isn't the case. I have had high mount 3071's with custom grinds supposidly around the 300deg ad make less power in the entire rev range than a set of 280deg ad HKS cams with no other changes other than tuning. Both setups were extensively tuned. My thoughts are the that dynamic comp with the smaller cams increased to a point where igntion timing started yeilding resuls agian.

I think you've missed the point of what they were trying to say. If your theory holds then everybody needs 320@50 duration camshafts to bring there 1000hp turbos on at 1500rpm right???? Also notice that camshafts were not the only changes made so its hard to get 100% quantifiable results of the difference in camshaft only changes. What I believe they were actually trying to say is that the right combination of parts is what will poduce the most area under the curve. In selecting cams you need to look at where the turbos are going to start making boost - there's no point putting cams in that will work between 2000-5000rpm when your turbos aren't going to make boost until 5000rpm. Select the minimum duration for the rpm range required to make the horspower and get the biggest lift possible - this will keep it responsive off boost and should bring the turbos sooner. For the horsepower your after the 272 in and ex should be fine. The other piece of advice is to try and keep the dynamic compression up by increasing compression ratio.

Detonation is definately the killer - and when you see plenty of RX8's that detonate on std ECU with the knock sensor still attatched and in "good working order" you start to realise that if the factory cant detect knock then most tuners aren't going to have a chance.

For it to pop out the exhaust there needs to be spark. If the issue was not there b4 the haltech went in - then it must be the haltech. Seen it b4 and there is nothing really to be alarmed with as long as the car drives fine.

Most ECU's still need to see a crank reference (bare minimum) to pulse the injectors and coils - shouldn't matter if you have values in the 0rpm column.

Seen that before on haltechs - its obviously pulsing both injectors and coils when the ignition is turned on.

Have they(Haltech) sorted the accelleration enrichment issues they have had in almost all windows based ECU's??

I can see the appeal of top feed injectors - bosch's latest range of high impeadance EV14 injectors are available upto 1000cc/min twin spray. Bet they would tune great to. It seems that top feed is the what all manufactures are going to if not Direct injection.

I just dont get this approach - why dont you just get buy a GTT once your on your opens. You will spend way too much and the resale of the car will be similar to a non turbo, not a GTT. Why dont you try taking you cold air setup off and just leave the airbox open (with the filter in) and then see who wins.