rob82

This is what I use when I want a good cheap COP coil http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-FALCON-BA-BF-NEW-COIL-ORIGINAL-XR6-TURBO-4-0L-/190507883608?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5b279c58 They are just as strong as LS1 coils. Had no problems on a 2jz @30psi of boost with a 0.9mm gap.

If this is a competition about who's is smallest - some of my cars runs 1-2degrees BTDC at peak torque!!! How small is that! And as for PFC knock sensors - they generally work ok, but there are numerous R33 Rb25's that I have tuned that detonate both audible and through the cahssis ear and dont show signs of knk on the hand controller! And you cowboys tune using that knk feedback!!!

Both EVO's and Subaru's can go up to 50degrees advance on the inlet! They really dont respond with more than about 30degrees advance though.

There is three pins at your tps 5V, signal and sensor GND. Check that the voltage between 5v pin and the sensor gnd stays @ 5V all the time - if it doesn't your have to start there - thats a big problem. You should always check sensor voltage with reference to sensor gnd not chassis gnd. That being aid if you have negative dc voltages between signal and chassis earth you may have a rectifier issues within you alternator. you could try disconnecting the battery cable to the alternator with the engine running and see if the erratic tps goes away.

First check your battery and ground terminals are tight. Then: Mesure your 5V rail vs sensor gnd with ignition on and then with the car running and see if it changes. Then measure your sensor GND to chassis gnd and see if there is any voltage difference between running and ignition on. Also try disconnecting the TPS with the car running and also with ignition on to make sure it drops to zero so you can see that the hand controller isn't just giving you false information. Has anybody ever checked the input impeadance of the TPS signal into the PFC and the attessa system matches??

Good luck tracking a 1200hp car - you may get one lap in before the block splits. Most people struggle keeping the blocks together with 600rwhp.

Wouldn't waste my money on old technology.

Stop pissing around with old technology and buy an FG XR6T engine put a TO4Z on it and throw it into you skyline!!! Raise the comp to 11:1 and e85 you'll have around 850rwhp and 1500N.m of driveline assholing torque! I've made 740rwhp (around 1200N.m) on a BA with a T04Z @26psi on e85 with a comp of 8.6:1 and variable cam timing that isn't independant. Boost came in very strong with 26psi@3500rpm reving to 6400rpm - peak power around 5800rpm however. You add 11:1 comp, independantly variable cams(FG) and a better intake manifold(FG) on the same setup I would think that the above figures wouldn't be out of the question. With a boost threshold of about 2800 and peak power around 6000rpm and a slightly more workable torque curve.

If the VCT is being turned off at 5000rpm then your piston to valve clearance gets bigger as the cam is retarding. Try giving it a free rev with it on as - in battery voltage across the two solenoid pins and see if it still makes the noise not under load. Is there any chance that it is PWM the solenoid after 5000rpm - they can be quiet noisy.

If you want it to idle properly you need proportional spark as well as closed loop idle control. The trick is to find the advance at which +/-10 degrees of timing gives you an equal increase/drop in rpm then apply your delta igntion numbers corresponding to the rpm you found and make your base idle timing the number you found earlier. Make sure you turn off all IAC control while doing this though. Open up the bounds on the idle control to at least 100-150rpm you want it to do very little until +/-200 rpm from you desired idle speed..

You cant really run dual maps with the djet - not without datalogit and a laptop. I know it may sound pretty crude but on some of the xr6t e85 tunes I've done remotely I just add 28% extra fuel and 6degree more timing - this is as long as I know the 98oct tune was correct and I will generally get within 1% of my desired fuelling. You could probably do the same with the djet by adding global corrections to the 98Oct tune. The autronic will accept pretty much all narrow and wide band sensors available - apart from ford narrowband 3V. You can also autotune.

I only trust the STD ecu and PFC when using the STD cas if you want a 1 deg sensitive control. On most setups I'll try using the cas but if I get too much timing scatter I go to a crank trigger setup. As for sm4 vs haltech there is no comparison the autronic has been a better system for years.

What he said!! Cant wait to see one of theses turbos on a well sorted engine.

E6-E11x ECU's are absolute crap. The amount of haltech's I've personally pulled out of cars is in the double digits! The old DOS haltechs were ok, the new ones I havn't tuned personally but have heard from tuners that know what engine managment is that they are ok - not great. I have had good sucess with the new Links and Vipec ECU's.

They will only really trim once its hot and on cruise. Try bringing the revs up to 2500rpm hot and see what you get - if one goes lean and the other rich - then you have most likely wired them around the wrong way (the best check is to watch the fuel trims as you will see one go to full positive trim(25%) and the other to full negative trim(25%)). ie front 02 signal in the rear dump and rear 02 sensor in the front dump.

GTR's trim the front 3 and the rear 3 cylinders independantly so they will neverread the same while in closed loop.

No matter how big the spark energy if you fire through the lead your going to get misfires. My preference is still cop xr6t coils as they are high energy for low dwell - 2ms is heaps.

What is the engine built for? Compression, expected boost, is it intercooled, what is the injector location?

That manifold will most likely flow more than the turbo manifold. Nothing wrong with using that manifold.

Thats hilarious - they have obviously f**ked something up. Take it back to the installer.

In a street driven car with 400rwkw on tap with an rb26 I would be using a maximum of BCPR8ES on pump. You could go up to a 9 if your at the track - however on e85 I would be definately going back down to a 7 as in most cases you will drop 100deg C chamber temps. Usually on E85 you can go up in plug gap too as the extra ignition timing puts less stress on the ignition system.

Hmm I've seen an 11.2 @ 128MPH in a VL RB30/25 with around 360rwkw in a 5sp man with slicks. Depends on the driver tho I spose.

Probly be easier and possibly cheaper to do a neo head conversion as have solid lifters like the GTR std. They are the pick of rb heads IMO.

Increasing comp also reduces EGTS when running on E85.

Using a vacuum reference is a really shit idea - not only are you causing a vacuum leak as you bleed the solenoid onto boost but your also applying negative pressure on the actuator meaning that its more likely to open the wastegate flap so it will make the car slower onto boost. Not only this but if gases are escaping out of the the wastegate port then your putting more thermal loading on wastegeate port - guess where turbos are likely to crack!!