rob82

Well if you've already calculated the fuel flow then surely you must know the duty! PS - assuming base pressure of 3Bar I'm guessing your close to 100% duty.

Wow have you got a flow gauge that does 9l/min - where do I get one of those?

No - The O2 sensors only work at light loads but what they learn in closed loop they DO apply to open load fuelling. Hence if you have negative LTFT numbers in closed loop in the highest load cell then you have a negative fuelling adder in open loop.

I'm only going to comment on what I've seen and that is that there is varying injector puslewidths between the front three and rear three cylinders. I beleive this only to be based on information learned from the oxygen sensors not independant fueling based on differing MAF signals. LTFT - long term fuel trims. If STFT (short term fuel trims) are positive or negative in a particular cell for long enough the ECU will update that cell with a LTFT of equal value and zero the STFT.

The gtr from r32 will trim independently between the front three and rear three cylinders. And it will apply learnt LTFT to fueling outside of closed loop. Something a lot of so called tuners miss!

You really need to get data and check what your hot cranking on time is. To me it sounds software related - ie an incorrectly calibrated table. If you send me the bin image I can have a look for you.

Is the ECU requesting a pulse?

Wow I think they may have stuffed that up - think about it. Firing order is 1,5,3,6,2,4 You have - (1,4) (2,5) (3,6) Should be - (1,6) (2,5) (3,4) So the first four firing events are correct but then your firing cylinder 4 instead of 6 - I'll let you work out what 240degrees from compression stroke is. Guess which cylinders aren't firing?

You've grouped the wrong cylinders together on your ignition, should be: Ign1 - (cylinder 1 and 6) Ign2 - (cylinder 2 and 5) Ign3 - (cylinder 3,4)

Is it genuine? Is the sensor gnd in tact and not chassis earthed? Log the o2 sensor and check peak to peak voltages and the average voltage.

It's unlikely to be too complicated - more than likely just a 2d scaler with tsp enable vs rpm. But yes if you remove the o2 sensor it will trim an extra 20% of fuel in while in the closed loop section of the map. Hope your tuner took that I to account.

Sounds like on/off decel fuel cut. And to the original poster it sounds like you have a dud o2 sensor - best way to test them is force the engine to run rich and then lean and make sure it goes above 900mV and below 100mV. The switch to high and low should be within a second.

The factory mps exhaust manifold has a swing valve at the exit of it's manifold.

I know its meant to be sequential but the last LTX12 I scoped definately wasn't sequential - that was using a 36-1 inductive trigger and factory inductive cam trigger on a 2/1JZ. Apparently microtech's cant use too higher tooth counts and which means on an RB they are most likely only using the 6-5-4-3-2-1 signal not both the 6-5-4-3-2-1 and 360 tooth signal like the factory/PFC do. Hence why there is very few ECU's that I trust to use the OEM RB CAS for stable igntion control.

Well sounds like they've pulled their finger out and worked out how to drive the extremely complicated IAC valve. Can any of you comment on the sequential injection?

From what I've seen personally: A 4" 100cpi cat will be fine for 350rwkw. (less than 2psi back pressure between turbo and cat) A 5" 100cpi cat will be fine for 450rwkw. (less than 2psi back pressure between turbo and cat) Knock off about 12% of that for 200cpi cats. Please note that this was on systems that have a very shallow merge from the rest of the exhuast. Thats very important. Does anydoby know the emmssions compliance level they will be measuruing to for a VL?

Does exactly what you think it should do - increase the numbers increases the boost duty. Map should be should be an 8bit number ie 7FHex=50% duty and FF=100% duty so scaling should be (Decimal converted Hex value/255)*100. The s14 axes where rpm and load(load being the y value of your spark table). Because you only "T" into the signal from boost source to turbo you may need place a restrictor pill in between the boost source and "T" piece to give you more control. Try without the pill first and if you cant get enough boost try a 1mm restricor pill. PS - this is how a factory Subaru from MY00 WRX to current MY11 WRX have performed their boost control.

That's probably because the STD ecu is still there controlling the idle. They aren't the greatest of ecu's pretty sure they still batch fire even thought the should be able to run sequential inj/ign with ltx12.

Why don't you just use the factory solenoid with a smaller pill and get your current boost controller to drive the solenoid. I would just change the wiring at the ecu. And yes nistune should be able to control the waste gate solenoid. Havnt tested it but I used to tune the factory s14/15 ecus and just use the factory duty vs load vs rpm map.

Unlikely - if you have fuel and spark on that cylinder than it's time to check compression. Have you even pulled the spark plug out to see what it looks like? Might just be easier to take it someone that knows what they are doing. It may take my an hour to write out all the things you need to check but if I had the car and 10min I would be able to find the cause.

In terms of what?

You've obviously misunderstood them because what you have stated makes no sense. Generally the higher the bore/stroke ratio the higher the bsfc - hence the better the conversion of fuel to hp.

That's the dumbestest thing I've heard. Torque has nothing to do with fuel usage. The more power you make at the lower the rpm the more torque. You also have more allowable time to inject the fuel if your making high hp at low rpm (torque). I've regularly make 360rwkw on an xr6t with 440cc injectors on pump fuel and they make more torque than most rb30's at this power level!

Breakpoints, Hi/lo flow - your talking ford calibration not nissan. Last time I looked I'm pretty sure COBB found the injector scaling number and the injector dead time vs batt. Not sure if the min on time had been found though. Hmmm just becasue you crank the throttle open doesn't mean that you should do it. There will still be a desired idle speed that it will try to achieve and most likely do it by retarding the timing. It may have gone into a limp mode from you adjusting it - hence the 800rpm idle.