rob82

Has any body tried different ring packages to reduce blowby/ring flutter. When we made 340rwkw on an oem piston ring package we had no oil control issues. Unfortunately bad fuel destroyed that engine and we went to cp's - ever since then we had oil control issues. Has anybody tried total seal rings? What surface finish are people honing their cylinder to?

You haven't tuned enough ba xr6t's have you. They run conical springs which is good for fuel economy but not for holding a valve on it's seat when the revs and exh back pressure are high. What you see is a massive dip in power at the reonant point of the spring and then the power comes back towards the rev limit. But Ive also seen what you've seen in regards to swapping springs in and making more power even when the only symptom is slightly low power. The interesting thing on the low boost graph is that the power falls away high in the rev range suggesting that springs are possibly not up to the task. Bangs some springs in and stabilize your boost and I think you'll be on the right path.

That's what I would have suggested. And they will totally pass an emissions test the bf cats are euro4 compliant. Get bf cat it flows more than the ba but you may need to weld some flanges onto it to make it work.

That was my thinking too - I would love so see an rb26 with a ts .94ar gtx3076r. Would be a hell of a setup if your chasing around 400rwkw with minimal lag. Factor in variable cam timing e85 I would think you would see peak torque by 3500 with power all the way to 8000 maybe reach 450rwkw.

You can use either boost source. The reason ford use that pickup point is to allow better control at higher rpm. And by better control I mean better ability to lower boost.

500awhp on an rb26 is a snack if you spend good money on a few high quality parts. Stock head with a set of drop in cams is what I would use. Keep it simple they don't need to be huge cams, 260 with 10mm lift is more than enough to get that hp. Set of -5's with a good 4" exh. I would upgrade the oil pump gears to the Reimax gears STD water pump is fine.

Been asked plenty of times before - completely stock rods 350awkw. Stock rods with updated bolts 400awkw. Rb26's aren't known for creating huge torque and the rod length is so small.

I take it you are using the factory boost pickup point - ie the nipple at the start of the scroll? If so that point has a higher boost level than manifold pressure. The pressure difference between the two increases logarithmically with airflow rate. If you change to manifold pressure as a boost source for the actuator you will generate a lot more boost.

As much as he has carried on mafia is correct - having an atmo bov or a no bov or a bov that doesn't open at idle will cause drivability issues. The majority of issues are due to unmeter air or spurious maf reading due to reversion, all these issues are cured by using a STD bov plumbed back. Just because it wasn't stalling before with an atom bov doesn't mean that it wasn't an issue. There is no way to tune around it without causing other tuning issues if you are using a PFC or STD ecu unless they are adding extra functions into ECM which I believe no one is doing(not on these ecms anyway). Can you tell me what the isc duty is at a hot idle? Should be very low like 15-20%. What is the hot idle speed 950rpm? If it is a dual entry rail is there two pumps or just one? I've never had any issues with genuine sard regs. Also you will not believe the increase in drivability you will gain with a factory plum back bov. The gain in speed between shifts in my rb30/26dett -5 equipped r32 was huge, so noticeable!

I've driven a few xr6t's with around 550rwkw and at that power/torque level it is very hard to modulate torque with throttle position even when using electronic throttles. One was a track car which I spent hours on mapping accelerator pedal position vs actual throttle angle - the other variables were desired boost vs throttle angle and the point at which intake cam began to really advance. The car was drivable but still hard to handle mid corner.

Not an exhaust leak is it?

The knock sensor aren't active at light load. Nissans strategy is to detect knock at low rpm high load and if substantial knock is detect it will revert to a completely different ignition and fuel map. The values in this ignition map are only slightly retarded at light load but quiet a bit more retarded at high load. Can you confirm the cruise mixtures with a wideband are correct ie 14.7:1?

Oh well at least you've found the issue. Shit situation dude.

What heat range where the coppers? STD coil packs after 20 years of operation often have burn marks in the side. Not a good thing but not uncommon. Idle control not set? Did the base bypass valve screw need adjusting? Were the turbos n1's -as in steel wheeled STD turbo's?

All issues in this thread sound like incorrect 02 sensor operation. Bad cas usually cause issues at higher rpm high load where ignition timing is crutial. Its hard to diagnose a bad 02 sensor without ecu data. There is a few things you can check though. Put a multimeter on the signal wire and check that the 02 sensor oscillates between about 100mv and 900mv check at no load at about 2500rpm.

The pierburg pumps only flow around 300l/min @5bar which makes them just shy of supplying 6x 1000cc injectors. For 6x 1000cc injectors I would still prefer to run two dw300 pumps at a base pressure of 4 bar. That way you can switch the second pump at higher load.

Agree on the 240sx. To look at the car on the dyno it's hardly straining the dyno. To make that sort of power with a 4th gear run your going to be making upward of 8000N of tractive effort. When you are making 8000N you can tell that the car is wanting to leave the dyno - that car is barely moving on the dyno. I don't believe it will be impossible to make 400rwkw with a gtx3076r but you will need high octane fuel min 105ron. And your may need to increase the cr to help the bsfc.

1. To dampen fuel pressure oscillations. 2. The dampeners don't a vacuum feed but the fpr does. 3. If the fpr is not connected your mixtures will be rich on cruise and lean on boost. 4. No problems with STD regs at all.

Totally agree - the torque specs on that bolt are quiet large meaning that you need to lock the crank - and no the clutch won't hold enough torque to do up the bolt. You can pull the starter motor to lock the crank or do what I do and drill a small hole through the bell housing enough for a pry bar to lockup the flywheel.

From those phots it appears to be Abrasive wear which is probably due to lack of sufficient lubrication. It seams weird that it etched the middle of the cam bearing surface away. My guess is they possibly tunnel bored the cam bore and forgot to debur the oil feed cause both a blockage of the oil passage and significantly higher loading on the middle section of the cam journal. Really hard to tell just from those photos.

I though tit was really good advice. The amount of aftermarket products that I've tested over the years that can't compete with factory components makes me very wary when selecting aftermrket parts.

Generally on a knock limited turbocharged engine using speed density style tuning you would actually reduce your ignition timing for lower intake air temps as your cylinder fill increases. This is due the fact that most ecu's dont have a load based ignition curve but rather just a manifold pressure based ignition curve. This is not the case on a maf based systems or some oem speed density ecu's.

Don't believe a standard n1 pump will have any shims in the pump. From memory it will just be the two springs. But I'm with t04gtr 75psi isn't overly high. What oil are you running? You could try a different weight.

I ran 1mm restrictors on each of my -5's with no issues.

Trust me for the 35r the best manifold is the standard one or the plazmaman if you looking at going above 7000rpm repeatable. It will be the fastest spooling, create the most midrange and give you the least dramas. Leave the STD throttle body on it and just have a 180 degree bend on your ic pipe.