rob82

At 120,000 rpm would you trust a cheap product. When they fail they there is a possibility that it will take the engine with it. Sure the big names have failed but on a 10k build when your talking the difference of maybe $1000 I wouldn't risk it!

Hmmm you may have leaking injectors if thats the case. Maybe worth getting them cleaned and flowed and checked for sealing issues.

Your wrong. Thats how they came out. The solenoid is only a 2 port. Meaning that if it is not energized the signal that the actuators get is the full signal from the +ve side of the throttle bodies(hence minimum boost or actuator pressure). When the solenoid is fully energized 100% duty then you are bleeding the maximum amount of boost the solenoid can flow away from the actuator hence reducing the signal to the actuators and increasing the boost. If you want more boost then removing the pill will allow more flow and reduce the signal to the actuators even more. If you hook it up the way you have suggested then at 0%duty you will have no signal on the actuators hence shitloads of boost. Follow the diagrams guys and you will be sweet.

You sure because it is one of the main influences on fuel adjustment - including cranking injector on time. Are you sure its only flooding the front three cylinder?

An airflow meter adjust fuel requirements for differences in IAT. Pretty sure the GTR ecu has IAT correction.

So did you fix the coolant temp sensor?

Not on a STD GTR. That diagram look right to me. If you remove the pill it can bleed more boost source from the actuator line - hence increasing boost.

I wouldn't have a problem with that bearing clearance with that pump. I know of build's with greater clearance with similar rev limits without issues.

You've answered your question you need to create a pressure differential. Best way to do that is using a lip to cause a low pressure path for the airflow. You need a 60mm flap at 45 deg angle that stops just before the bottom of the radiator. Works best under the car as the air velocity is a lot higher under the car but the pressure is slighty higher. Was trying to find it but Mazda under car aero on their rx7 or rx8 is a work of art - air dams at brake points and oil coolers.

They may work on higher compression E85 setups - with the cooler EGT's that is.

Usually valve float occurs at a resonant point in the rev range meaning that the power falls away momentarily. You usually see the mixtures do weird things at that point as the exhaust valve stays open longer. If your exhaust back pressure is high you will usually float the exhaust valve on a turbocharged car given the profiling of the inlet is similar to the exh. Does the power stay on higher at lower boost levels?

From the graph it doesn't look like valve float. It's sometimes hard to tel thoughl. What total timing are you running? What other mods mods and whtere are the cams?

What rolls said was correct and if you put a multimeter across the pins then you should only see either 13volts when the solenoid is energized or 0v when off. I don't believe the r34's are current controlled drivers but it maybe worth checking to see if the power wire is connected to ignition(as the r33 is) if it is then it should be the same as the r33. And as for cam phasers not working - I was diagnosing about 1 Subaru a month at my previous job. So I wouldn't rule that out.

Looks like Dyno isn't setup correctly. What smoothing factor were they using?

Put a multimeter or test light across the terminals. Simple!

Spurious knock. I see oem struggle with it let alone aftermarket ecu's.

It's funny what people say about knock sensors. People without them say they want them and people with them say they don't want them.

Yeah you need to be least be close to boiling temp to get rid of any moisture in the oil. I would be concerned if it was over 105.

Hmmm - OEM's have been accounting for this for years - Ford term it "02 sensor Transport delay". These tables have been used since ed falcon!

The other thing to consider is the current state of tune and the reliance of your particular setup to octane level. You may find that there maybe little hp gain in going to E85. I think this is where people run into issues with injector sizing as the BSFC of their pump fuel tune is shit so when crossing over to E85 they need massive injectors. What does your timing curve under full load look like?

What injectors? What do the plugs look like?

IF you've pumped the head full of oil then the there is no path for the blowby to release pressure from the sump - usually this is when dipstick pops. Not sure why your front seal is failing though. How hard is it to remove your dipstik? Anyway the fix will most likely reduce the amount of oil in the head - ie smaller restrictors.

If your venting the catch can then you will have air entering the engine the engine that is unmetered. Best solution when removing PCV is to run both rocker cover breathers to a sealed catch can and then a single line back to the inlet pipe.

I might be telling porkies - it was the golf engine that integrated the oil pump into the sump. You maybe able to run a sprocket of the crank straight into the sump if you remove the oil pump would have to make covers though.

Really I've heard of plenty of belt failures/belts walking off - but I've been in the industry for a while. If you must do it I would look closely at an EVOX sump. They integrate an external like pump into the sump. Dont forget that your most likely going to run into oil control issues as well with the extra flow - all managable if you know what your doing.