rob82

If your hoping to gain actual transient response within the usable rpm range of that turbo(4000-7000rpm) then it will help. However I wouldn't jeopardize runner length unless you dont mind loosing mid range power (1000-55000rpm) and mid rpm spool rate.

Can only comment on the M7960 on an EVO9. It was an absolute waste of time - the difference between the std turbo @ 22psi and it was about 3rwkw at the same boost with about 400rpm more lag.

Most Z32 top out at 1350Kg/hr which is around 50lb/min - so around 500hp @ the engine. Which in my books is around 330rwkw.

Whats the point?

You have obviously f**ked something up. Most likely a wiring issue but who knows without looking at it. It amazes me what big things untrained people can miss and or overlook. Car should run fine with std dwell settings. Time to tow it to someone that knows what they are doing.

This might seem like a dumb question but what is the need for a higer flow pump? Has anybody done any calcs on rod bearing forces? Surely if you have a set pressure that is "required" not to spin bearings then obviously you just need a pump that gets to the relief pressure by somewhere before peak torque. Engine oil pressure is just a resistance to flow so if an enigne reaches the releif valve pressure by say 4000rpm whats the point of a higher flow pump given that there is adequate oil temperature control. What are the chances that the relief valve cannot bypass enough oil at high rpm and the pressure is going through the roof? Obviously when engines get built the bearing clearences are increased which means a higher flow pump is required to get to the same pressure at the same rpm.

I doubt you'll get over 400rwkw with a 0.82 rear on pump. I would think that around 350rwkw would be maximum on pump with a 0.82rear. As for intercoolers - The most thermally efficient cores I've seen are from process west. The plazmaman ones are close but process west are definately the best.

Thats a pretty usable torque range. I had peak torque around 3400rpm and it held to about 5400rpm then started falling away. It wasn't a very usable torque range when its paired with 4.11 diff gears and an rb25 gear with fairly narrow gear spacing.

WTF!!!

Seen lots of single cam VL's not make power over 6000rpm even with mild cam but heaps of turbo headroom. I also still beleive that the rb26 manifold is a waste of time on an Rb30 unless your looking at making most of your power above 5000rpm. And there is no way I was choking up the exhuast side with twin -5's.

If your chassis earthing the sensor gnd - then you will be loading the TPS, ECT, IAT, MAF and CAS. All sorts of bad things will be happening. You should tie the sensor ground of the ecu to the sensor gnd of the ATTESSA. You can also try re earthing all GND wires at ecu and attessa ecu.

No Definately not. Sensor gnd is not chassis gnd. Have you tryed tying the sensor gnd of both ECU and 4WD together?

If that were the case surely it would be more likely to happen after a big rev. Its very unlikly to be a sticky PRV after an idle shutdown.

I had a RB30/26 with twin -5's and standard gtr cams. Was making about 280rwkw at 12Psi of boost with the power starting to drop at around 5800rpm. I spent hours of both dyno time and street driving to find the best cam timing for a braod power band. It was highly sensitive to cam timing changes and I could move the peak power rpm point from around 5400rpm to 6000rpm(no higher). Now we all know that -5's at 12psi is harly working those turbos so my thinking was that it would continue making power to the rev limit which was set at 6800rpm but this was not the case. You would think with the runner length of the rb26 manifold combined with lots of head room in turbocharger flow it would be possible to continue making power - it did not. I put it down to a combination of the rb30 rod/stroke ratio and the factory 26cams being too small. If I were to do it again I would use the rb25 neo head to gain intake phasing and the longer runner length which would bring it onto boost sooner and make more midrage. I would go for something around the 10mm lift @ 260deg ad dur.

Failed oil pickup rubber seal between pickup and block? Scary putting things back together without a cause.

3-5min idle - f**ke that! Drive the car as if its a car, std engine or not. 10sec of idle is heaps to get the oil moving. Then drive the car as usual not hard until up to temp. e Now while the 02 sensor wont start working until about 50deg C what it learns in closed loop it will apply before the 02 sensor starts working. So if you have a f**ked 02 sensor and it learns the maximum fuel trim it will apply this correction when cold also. What is the eninge like when its upto temp? Does it use lots of fuel?

Wow a BOV that actually works properly. BOV's are meant to bypass air off boost. The only time they should close is around 5" of vacuum and above. This type of opperation is what stops AFM's from reversion and false reading - as long as they are plumbed back in. It is also the best way to help a tubo spool as there is no reversion waves that slow it down. It will be quicker onto boost and between gear shifts.

400rwkw on pump with 35r 1.06 is possible but most setups go just shy of there. Definately a good aim point. If you've got some higher octane fuel you'll get there probly over. I honesty think that the 35r is the perfect turbo for the RB30/26. If you want the twin scroll version get this with 1.00AR divided housing: http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=NTGT3586HTA&Category_Code=Turbo-FP Forced performance turbos have never let me down for power and response.

This is a pointless thread as it depends on what the engines BSCF. Some setups will be lots more efficient at converting the fuel to power. I have made 560rwkw on a dyno dynamics dyno that reads lowish with 6 x 880cc injectors with 2x044 and still had enough margin in the tune for more.

I doubt it would be 0V - most ECU's will recognise an upper and lower voltage input an it is rarely 0 or 5V more like 0.3V and 4.7V. And yes it does sound like an earth issue - try tying your grounds together like the original poster and see what happens.

It will usually only stick when the engine is up to temp as the TB's grow. Any chance the TB's were played with? I often see that over time the throttle shafts tend to twist due to the retaining spring acting at the oppisite end of the throttle stop. Has it got any idle issues?

What the f**k are you doing? Why is it a wasted spark setup?

Probly havn't put enough preload on the TB spring. Have they been apart.

What was the code? Was it a code for white pasty gunk in the rail cause if it was I need me one of these haltechs!!

That will work fine - my pick would be a sard or nismo regulator. Stay well away from turbosmart. Got to ask - whats wrong with whats already there? Have you run out of fuel pump?