rob82

Makes you wonder what type of plugs and what gap they will run in stratified charge mode with the new DI petrol engines coming out. The bigger the gap the better in any cylinder condition - as long as you can still ionise the gap it really helps in lean conditions. We picked up around 50awkw in a 400awkw subie going CDI - mind you we were really at the absolute limit of the standard subie coils and there was occasionally a missfire.

Please list these street driven 600hp weapons you speak of I'd love to know who is building them.

Being american they have a different method for calculating RON and MON levels which typically is a lesser figure than our RON and MON figures but is actually a higher octane fuel with a higher density even though their ethanol concentration is higer. Also from tuning similar cars abroad it was seen that their full power ignition numbers where high than that same equivalent car back in AUS.

I'm not criticising the LSX range of motors as I'm a fan of how well they perform throughout the entire rev range when compared to some of the four valve v8's available. But comparing a super car engine to a standard street driven engine is a bit of a wank considering theres been about 15years of R&D to get to a current power level of around 640hp = 2.1hp/cube. Lets turn back the clock 8 years when they were making around the 580hp mark = 1.9hp/cube after five years of R&D. So your saying now that if you take your holden 5L beast down to joe Bloggs "2hp/cube" Engine builders he will be able to give you an engine back that produces 608hp - 60 hp for trans = 548hp = 408rwkw. I dont know about you but I've tuned probably 40-50 304 engines from VN-VT in various forms over the past 5 years and I have never seen 1 go anywhere near this number not even within 100kw. I have also tuned around 150-200 LSX engines in various levels of modification and have never seen a 5.7L go over 300rwkw. The figures I quote are from a properly strapped, barometric, humdity and temperature compensated dyno dynamics dyno. And as for american engine builders - their fuels are better and there dyno's read higher.

No offence but you living in a dream world. That type of hp/cube would be ok for a 4vavle engine not an old donkey 2 vavle. You'd be better off trying to have a sweet torque curve than peak power figure!! Thats just my opinion.

Wind the rod out till there is no preload on the wategate flap and run you boost line straight to the acuator and then see what boost you get. If you still only get 16Psi then thats the minimum you likely to get unless there is something else wrong with the car.

Aren't the spring pressures in the HKS actuators around 15psi? How much boost are they meant to hold with zero bleed?

Maybe if it was released 10 years ago. But not now in comparison to some other engine technology coming out.

No offence but 350rwkw aspirated out of 5.7 is alot of horsepower. I've never seen a 5.7L make more than about 300rwkws aspirated and that was in a fully built ultima I tuned. You may get close to that mark but over 300rwkw you will need cubes and lots of work. You'd be better off to keep the cam size small around the 224 square at 50 112 lope seperation and throw a harrop supercharger on it. Depending upon the the fuel system the 42lb should be enough for arund 400rwkw on the stock 4bar system. You will however need to trick the ecu into thinking it has less air than it actually has so you dont run out of ignition resolution. If you run a rising rate system you should be able to do this. Thats assuming you have calibrated the ecu correctly.

Mods like bleed valves or removing bleed pills wont work as the likes with any modern ECU as it will all be closed loop control. Even the exhaust system will be hard to replace as there will be catalyst performance codes ie P0420. The best bet in the begining will be the pigyback ecus - however systems that drive the coils aka emanage wont work as there will be missfires codes that will be generated. Believe it or not Australia is at the forfront of ECU technology just look at the XEDE which is used on the new 335ci TT BMW - thats 120k worth of car which was cracked in about a month after the release. I cant really see anything too hard in apadting the XEDE to the new GTR as I garuntee the crank trigger will be exactly the same as the 350Z which is 36-1. Retuning the car via a CAN or K-line protocol will most likely take a fair while to determine the handshaking kernals but depending upon the ecu it may be able to be bootstrap loaded.

Pretty sure they're not direct injection - which is a bit of a dumber and not just for emissions control. Anybody know what type of engine management ie spreed density or twin AFM's? Has nissan given up on EMS and just relegated bosch to do there engine control? Aslo are there two 02 sensor on each bank ie before and after catalytic converter? One way fuel system?? Surely there is moe info out there.

Get the proper generic drains for that cartridge with the proper bolt hole seperation from MTQ turbos and start again. Make sure you change oil feed restricotrs to the turbo's to. Use about a 1.5mm restrictor as those turbos are known to smoke a little with standard restrictors.

Take it to someone who knows what an engine is and knows how to tune.

May get away with it this way with an rb30 balancer - I doubt it though as it will just slip the clutch. You can also remove the starter motor and jam the flywheel or drill a small hole through the bottom of the bellhousing and jam it that way.

You must be a photographer!!!

02 sensors wont cause a missfire at full load - unless there is a dodgy PFC tune which enables 02 operation at very high loads. To check try turning o2 feeback off within the PFC. Have you check your base timing? If your 02 sensors aren't f**ked then it looks like it may be lean. To check the pump remove the return line from the rail, place the hose into a measuring device and start and run car for exactly 30sec - then measure. You should have around 1.5L as in 3L/min of fuel flow.

You'd be better off replacing the whole harness as most skylines pre r34 are pretty f**ked anyways. Make sure you know exactly what you want to do with it before you start as you have to assign certain pins to certain functions so its not just as easy as getting a wiring diagram - thats if you choose the SM4 anyways. The SM4 has so many features - I'm currently trying to hook up a wideband sensor to flash the check engine light when the AFR adaption is +5% - ie if its leaning out.

How do bearing clearances kill oil pumps? Or are you refering to crank end float as in thrust bearing clearances.

Bet you have a blockage in the return line and or the pump they are using is massive ie too much flow for the standard reg to flow so you have higher pressure at lower duty cycles as the fuel is not being consumed. This would explain both the shite economy and the large power figure.

Those s5 550cc injectors are absolute shite - I definately wouldn't use them. If they have been sitting around then they might be a little gummed up - try putting the standard injectors back in along with the resistor pack.

Wow - dyno's aren't hard to cheat did he have a full weather station to enter proper baro, humidity and inlet temps? Did he strap it to the dyno - what gear did he run it in ect etc - 211rwkw on 8Psi = bullshit. f**k me forums are full of shite just read the rb30/26 or 26 hydrid pages spoolup hit it on the head the amount of horse power some people are caliming is absolute crap. All this claimed power should be compaired on the same dyno the same day just to put the bullshitters to bed - the problem is they never seem to appear!!! How funny!!

If it made that power on a Dyno dynamics dyno then your tuner is touhing himself and he may even be turning his customers!!!!!

Check the data with a scantool or watch the tacho and see if you have an rpm signal if you do then you should have both fuel and ignition pulse. If not then I would check fuses as the other side of the injectors is battery fed. It will be wried the exact same way as a rb26 - should be simple - so look for silly mistakes.

Havn't used a snap on chassis ear but the steelman chassis ear works very well if you know what your listening for. I would be very dubious to use something that is not a direct amplifier of actual enigne noise - as in I prefer no damping of any type.

Not sure where you got those figures from but they are different to what I have especially the flow rates at those pressures. But your calculations on supporting horsepower is wrong. 200l/hr = 3.33L/min of fuel flow therefore you would need 6 555cc/min injectors to use all the fuel which places the power output at around 550hp using a BSFC of 0.55. The biggest thing you've got to remember is that as the pressure drops the flow rates go up substantially - more so with bosch pumps.