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rob82

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Everything posted by rob82

  1. Catalytic converters dont fail from the back of the car the usually always implode in the middle on the trubo side not the muffler side. I would remove the silencer asap. This definately shouldn't be a warrantable item either! Note: It's most likely the retarded ignition event killing the cat - what timing number are you running.
  2. My advice would be to throw it in the bin.
  3. Your getting closer - you'll get it soon.
  4. If you know the required rpm it does.
  5. Rule of thumb from an old engineer when they used to press on drive sprockets. A 2 thou tolerence fit on a 1 inch pipe 1 inch wide will drive 40hp.
  6. Looks like your have a cracked insulator - so you may have a detonation issue however its hard to tell if there is any aluminium spheodites on the plugs as there is so much octane addtives. Not sure how poeple are saying that its rich as once the insulator and plug is that lead fouled the insulator doesn't get enough heat into it to burn off the deposits so the plug never cleans itself.
  7. It may work - could also compound the problem via increasing the air speed as it necks down to the AFM. Whats to say it wont cause reversion as you back off ie in stead of the turbo and engine inducing the air in it reverts off the 3.25in section. You could do what the EF falcons do via introducing a helmholtz resonance pipe on a particular bend. different theory but it should work.
  8. Amen to that - open your wallet, bend over and just take it like a pedophile in a jail shower!!!
  9. Dont mean to sound harsh - but if you've got to ask questions like you have on an internet forum about building an engine then I would be very worried about its potential longevity. My advice would be to find a reputable engine builder that doesn't mind a lending hand and then let him do the design and assembly and you can do all the remedial work.
  10. See if the Q45 will go the distance first - just make sure it is well away from turbo and add a bend in the pipe if you can - this way you will stop reversion back through the AFM. Also if you need to neck the pipe diameter down do it close to the turbo.
  11. If your on the signal wire then you will have infinite resistance as the trasistor will be supplied no signal from the ecu therefore the ground it uses to power the coil will be open circuit. There is however another ground on the coil that leads back to just under the ignitior back that should be bolted to the head - I'm not sure what the purpose of this ground is maybe to stop back EMF the car should however run without this ground - from memory.
  12. What spec grain size does he hone to run a synthetic oil from initial build are you using specillised rings? I prefer to use a mineral based oil for the first 100 -200k and then swap to a synthetic. If the rings havn't bedded in the first 100 -200 k then your in trouble - the will however continue to fully bed by around the 500k mark tho.
  13. Prolonged idling will only glaze the bores if it hasn't been run in and or the mixtures are rich. BTW resetting the ECU will do absolutely f**k all. You may have a few carbon build ups within the chambers that is causing hot spots and leading to detonation. Put it this way the more it pings the less carbon there will be in the chamber but your bearing will get a hammering. Just give it a long light load drive and see if it comes up ok.
  14. Haltech's and autronic are completely different ecu and are tuned in a completely different manner. Not sure if the haltech can be throttle/pressure mapped but it does sound like this could be an issue. Does the tuner have a good reputation?
  15. Are you guys wiring in the iar temp sensor as well? Might make for a nicer tune. Also the fuel pump pins 106 107?? should pull to ground from memory not supply 12 volts.
  16. Would have to be auto??
  17. Most diesels dont run a throttle's that's why you can hear the turbo spool at idle as there is either boost or atmoshpeheric pressure. And yes I am aware that some modern diesels run electronic throttles. The new triton even has stepper motor control varaible vane turbo.
  18. There are no settings timing and fuel only. 110% garuntee you.
  19. I would then add 15Psi of boost pressure on top of that. That way you can produce lots of drivable toque plus top end - you also gains lots of response. Also has anybody seen nissan's new variable vavle control - what a bucket of shite. You cant help but think it was designed by the law department in order to get around current patents!!!!
  20. There is no boost controller at all within the microtech lt8.
  21. I'm trying to put my engine in this week, 8.7:1 comp RB30/26 with the -5's so I will let you know the results.
  22. Thats untrue - positive displacement supercharges have zero lag they run a bypass vavle so that there is little/no flow throught the charger. As soon as the bypass vavle is closed you have boost. Also it is possilbe to control boost on most posivite displacement chargers as manufactures generally run a double sided vacuum actuator - so all you need to do is remove or apply pressure to vary the amount of air that is bypass from the compressor. We often do this on the VS-VT V6 superchargers. The biggest compliment to the FSI engine is that it is direct injection so that higher compression ratio's can be used as chamber quenching is optimised. Another neat idea is the clutched supercharger as this will reduced the forces required to drive the charger once the turbo is brought into action. To me the best thing nissan could do would be to introduce direct injection, crank the compression ratio up to 10:1 and add varaible cam timing.
  23. The timing will be 12 because you have too much bypass air around the IAC, screw it in until the base timing comes back to 15 deg.
  24. Sounds like you've got a leak under vacuum if the 02 sensor goes to zero before it gets to boost. Please dont tell me you've vented the rocker covers and havn't bunged the PCV vavle. Also if there is too much base timing then you can sometimes get an idle surge. remember the only proper way of checking the base timing is to do it with a nissan consult - bar none!!!!
  25. I can tell you they dont hold together long above 450rwkw no mater how builds them. You also find that their cam control from car to car is a little off due to the fact they press on the sensing teeth to the camshaft with no guid pin or keyway. Also power consistency from car to car once you turn them up is quite poor. IMO Australian manufacturers can design cars they just cant mass produce cars when compared to japanese manufactuers.
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