rob82

Think its a green with a yellow trace from memory. You might want to check the pinout tho.

There is so much variation in horsepower of the LS1's but gerneally a VY 235M will make about 200rwkw with an exhaust and may go to about 220rwkw with a tune on 98Oct. Put in a 218 deg square at 50 thou camshaft with 112 deg lobe centre's from memory and you will get up around the 260-270rwkw mark with a MAFLESS tune. I've never seen one make 300rwkw and thats with big camshafts around 230 at 50 thou on standard motors anyway. And yes the R34 would smash it with 300rwkw.

By the look of that i would have said that your lobe centres are too tight. You've got to remember that in tightening your lobe centre's your reducing your power band. Also as cameron said you feedback speed is set to high - thats why your boost is oscillating.

If it drops that wire it goes into diagnostic mode where it will only run 15degrees advance all the time thats why it will be a slug to drive as the timing will be lots retarded. Chances are if it keeps pulling that code then you have a wiring issue or the knock sensor is faulty, both are possible. You could always just measure the impedance across the knock sensor and put a resistor across it as the knock sensor doesn't do a whole lot any way.

There is a plug right next to the cold idle up valve that goes to the knock sensorsand picks up detonation. If this is going open circuit then thats your problem. Make sure its connected and also check continuity from the plug to the sensor itself.

I've tuned a GTR with 2860R-5 cams and all the fruit make 460hp on about 23psi of boost before running out of fuel pump. They come with a piss weak wastegate spring on them from memory and I was having trouble controlling boost pressure with an AVCR. Have seen alot of aftermarket boost controller struggle to hold boost at around 3 times the wastegate pressure and below. I would definately get larger wastegates say 15psi and I would definately get the bosch 044 as there flow rates dont drop as heavily as the pressure goes up compared to alot of the jap stuff. I would be more inclined to stay with the standard oil pump as well and try your hardest not to bouce the revlimiter as thats what breaks oil pump drives especially brittle N1 drives. If need be raise your rev limiter a couple hundred rpm if it save hitting the revlimiter.

You sometimes get little black oval scours along the verticle parts of the bearings. They also loose their tension and depending upon how big the detonation you may actually crush the bearing. Remember when detonation occurs the bearings are transferring the force to the crank.

The bearings where scoured from detonation. Pull the oil filter off and open it with a heavy duty can opener and look for copper material and or anything suss. If you find nothing then its still not an indication that the bearing's aren't damaged but it may be a heads up for damage allready done.

Well my GTR returned 150Psi across all cylinders. 6 months later I spun a big end. To read the bearings and to see the pitting on the cylinder head/pistons I say it had been absolutly hammered and seen lots of big detonation events and I can garuntee that it never rattled(detonated) or was run lean in my hands. Imports are usually an unknown item.

Yeh talk to luke at Ivan Tighe cams.

Check your fuel pressure regulator has its vacuum source on. If the dyno shop gave you a printout of boost and power they would've taken it off.

Some WRX's hold closed loop until around 8Psi of boost from the factory. And alot of modern cars are now coming out with wideband 02 sensor factory.

Or just get a remap - would be my prefered ecu above all unless you want to spend big $$$$ on an autronic or motec.

Its probably a 3bar map sensor which means with the enigne off ignition on you should have a 5volt ref, ground and the signal wire should read about 1.5volts.

If there is the same oil flow/pressure to the head at 3000rpm as there is at 6000rpm then why dont we have oil return issues at crusie on the highway, as 3000 rpm is where most skylines criuse at 110km/hr? Is this a safe assumption?

If your suss on the intank than I would fix it real quick as if it is not supplying pressure to the back of the bosch then you might be up for two pumps!! And as for bosch pumps not liking foreign matter - no pumps like it, however I still believe the bosch will handle it better then most others.

Has anybody tryed venting the sump to atmoshpere/catch can to prevent the pressure build up within the crank. My thoughts are that with sustained high rpm/load the crankcase is pressurising causing the oil not to drain back to the sump. The oil galleries are below the level of oil which means if the sump is pressurised there is no way for oil to drain back. This is why the mod to drain the back of the head via the welch plug on the rear will work as is it more to do with equalling the pressure differential between head and sump than being a drain - but what happens if the oil level is above the level of the rear drain you going to get the same situation. The way I see it is if the sump itself is vented then you will never have any issue as all the oil drains back from the head will be more than ample to keep the oil in the sump. It might be an easier option then lifting the head as well if your enigne is back together.

Remove the oil filter and peel it open with a stong can opener and see if there is any copper coloured material within the filters.

Replace camshaft and CAS - good as new. I wish I had of taken a picture of it as I diagnosed a car the other day, it just looks like the spline wears along the side where it engages onto the cam as for reasons I'm not sure as the car didn't have that many k's on it if you can believe an import odometer reading. The rb's have been around for ages and there has been alot of rb30/26's as well cant really see me not noticing a 10deg timing variance on a full throttle ramp let alone all the other tuners out there or anyone with a bit of an idea.

I have seen lots of vibration/resonance with cam belts on various rb motors especially on rb30/26/25 with the additional cam belt length. We have even changed from using the standard CAS to a dedicated crank signal with the sync still on the cams with one motec system. I honestly felt there was no problem though with the timing control using both methods. I have however seen large timing variance (10-15deg) within the actual CAS spline/half moon key and I reckon this is what they are describing.

And from this did he deduct that a leaner mixture increased EGT when run on the same tune? There is three things your have to wieght up 1. is the less density of the Ethanol 2. the fact that alcohols generally produce lower EGT's. 3. How much oxygen the ethanol is carrying.

What wastegate are you using? Is it a standard Turbo?

Has the car got a catalytic converter? And is the base timing correct?

Xr6T run 4bar base pressure so their injector sizing is quite small incomparison to alot of nissan injectors. Therefore not really a good upgrade!!!

Yes. I would not usually say this but for the first time ever I saw a standard nissan ECU apply closed loop fuel corrections in open loop. If the tune is overly rich in closed loop then you could have negative LTFT number that are being applyed at open causing it to lean out. Whats the code on the ECU? The ECU is I saw this ocur on was MECR-212? I'm only saying this if you are sure you've check everything else is sweet and you've exhausted every other option.