rob82

Check your fuel pump - flow and pressure. Should have at least 2.5L/min at 38psi.

You can sometimes make more power if you change the diff gears and then retune.

Get pics of the bigend bearings too.

Sounds like all the sysptoms of a vaccum leak. Check over all the pipes twice over esspecially around the condulated rubber angle pipes and also where the piping goes through the engine bay. Also check crankcase ventillation system is sealed.

If your tuner has ever played donkey kong then he will take no time at all. I'm up to stage 5 - that involves jumping the river infested with crocodiles.

Just use proper EFI hose clamps from repco.

Doesn't do shit at this level of mods.

Anybody know what the external memory expansion socket/pins are for?

I found points that are quite audible though a chassis ear and to well trained ear external to the car. The knock reading on the hand controller was zero. I have found this on quite a few cars now.

What he should be doing with the xr6T is de-sensitising the Knock sensor gain functions rather than turning it off completely. XR6T factory ecu can pull up to about 8 degrees if they feel necessary. It only takes 1 bad batch of fuel to cause damage. I definately wouldn't turn the knock sensor off in a customers car thats for sure. I wish it where possible to tune the knock senistivity of nissans but its just not possible using PFC or factory management. I've found the nissan sensors fairly consistent in the topend at high load however there have been a few that I wish I could have desensitised. If he is happy enough that there is no detonation then be happy that its a safe tune. Get him to read the plugs after 1000k's to determine if there is need for a tidy up of the timing map. I've found that you have to be very progressive with your timing numbers throught the map as large variations in timing can give you a knock also.

Thats correct being americans they have a different calculations or processess via which they calculate their RON and MON fuel ratings. The biggest thing is their Ethanol content from memory 10% blends is common, which is probably another reason that I've found that you need to tune richer in the states to starve off detonation. (And no I dont want to get into the burning characteristics of ethanol blended fuels) The easiest way to tell is when tuning the Subi's as there knock control methodology is consistent throughout the world however the fuel's are different. In saying that there is a level of AFR that they require in order to be happy and learn timing. I've found that in Australia that minimum level is between 11.0:1 - 11.5:1 whereas in the states it is about 10.5:1 as confirmed by Sleeping Talon. Tuning leaner than this level usually results in less learnt timing hence less power.

Its hard to compare american dyno figures against ours. US numbers are usually inflated so their 500rwhp is our 450rwhp. 38 psi and 555cc injectors in my books is only really capable of 470-490rwhp and with your shit fuel need about 10.5:1 to starve off detonation you must be very close if not on 100% DC. We tune the EVO9's in the states at about 11.0:1 AFR and the STI's need about 10.2:1 - 10.5:1 to be able to learn timing in.

So that means that you have a 10psi actuator. If you want to run 15psi then put in 1.05kg/cm2 for boost and try about 50% duty cycle. If the boost shoots over 15psi but then drops back down high in the rev range reduce your duty cycle by 5% then try again. Do this for each boost level you desire remeber the high the boost level the more base duty cycle it will need and vice versa for less boost.

My boss tuned 1 here on the Gold Coast about 2 years ago using our xede processor the customer wsa stoked with about 8-10rwkw more power which doesn't sound like much but it added about 15km/hr more top speed on his trip back to Perth. chiptorque.com.au

Yes thats right there are four boost setting each with a boost pressure set level and a starting duty cycle. The way it works is you take a stab at the base duty cycle from here the PFC works out wether or not it is above or below the boost set point and decides if it needs to increase or decrease the duty cycle to achieve the desired boost level, it does this throughout the entire rev range at a frequency of about 40Hz from memory. That means it can calculate a duty cycle 40 times per second. Now what happens if you set a high base duty cycle and a low boost setting is it spikes up using the base duty cycle guess and then it sees that its current boost point is too high for the desired boost level and it pulls the boost out by reducing the duty cycle. Remeber it can only go as low as the base wastegate spring pressure if it is less than this at any point the you have a mechanical problem. A good test would be to take the boost solenoid out of the equation and see if it holds wastegate pressure. The setting you have in there of 0.5kg/cm2 = about 7psi which is probably pretty close to wastegate spring pressure. So if your duty cycle of 48 is spiking to say 15 psi and you are trying to run 15 pound then you need to put in a boost setting of 1.05kg/cm2 = 15psi.

Cant remember if you can get the duty cycle reading on the hand controller but see if you can get a multimeter that measures it. Then you will be able to see if you have a mechanical problem or an electrical problem.

The point of my comment was that if your deciding to build an engine than its obvious that you are probably at a level of power that needs a decent ECU. ie one that has battery compensations. What was the lesson learnt?

Asinine comment removed - make sense or go away.

Has the Map sensor for the boost control kit got a good vacuum souce and are you sure the boost control solenoid is hooked up right. If your sure then can you get a DC measure on the valve?

And check the 1 way valve is not clogged or backwards or something stupid and then go to the GYM!!!

I'm talking about analog inputs into the PFC not inputs into the datalogit software.

Hey dude have you got a PFC pinout. Or can you tell me the pins.

Just wondering if anybody knows if there is any other analog inputs outside the factory harness for a normal aiflow based RB25DET PFC.

The problem with that is your algortihm for leaning ignition in has to be very good otherwise your going to run into big problems. The factory subaru system post 02 is capable of learning igntion timing and can be quite a fiddle to tune with. The other issue is that the knock sensor wont pick up all detonation. This is very evident when tuning at low loads and rpm as if you've ever tuned a PFC you can hear detonation through the chassis ear but it doesn't register on the hand controller.

Totally agree as there are ECU's which "boost cut" (subaru, ford,toyota) and there are ECU's which reach a predefined "airflow limit" usually vs rpm (mitsubishi, nissan,GM).