rob82

So you can command the shift solenoids as well? TPS vs VSS shifting like most OEM manufacturers I presume? Can you give us so more info cause that sounds too good to be true.

So it actually controls the auto or does it just render it into complete limp home mode aka wolf3d.

Are you sure you dont have an air leak or a venting BOV? DO you have a catch can? Is the base timing set correctly?

TE(Tractive effort) is the actual torque delivered to the dyno rollers. Actual engine torque T = TE x r / GR. Where r is the radius of the tyre and GR is the final gear ratio. Therefore if the run was done in fourth the GR is 1:1 but the diff ratio is 4.11 in GTST. So say for 17" tyres with 45mm profile. T = [5000(from graph) * ((17/2 *25.4/1000)+(45/1000))] / 4.11 = 317 N.m at the flywheel.

You have your opinion and I have mine. Sure if it is possible to make a trigger disk setup in every case it will definately make things more accurate. I chose the EVO as an example as with the 4 tooth even crank signal it is very difficult to determine the actual position of the crank. If it is inaccurate in its calculation then it will be inaccuarte in its time of injection(not that it matters to much) and also the time at which it drives the coil hence either overcharging the coils or under charging the coil(reducing the spark capacity). Motec plugin EVO8 max power 186awkw with 3" Exhaust turbo back on 22psi. EVO8 with our flash on the satndard ECU program 3" exahust back 196awkw. I know there are alot more variables in comparing the two but both more so the MOTEC had been tuned to maximum performance.

No I'm not so much talking about the point at which injection or ignition occurs but the ability of the ecu to take an input and calculate the exact postion at which it should fire. If you look at an EVO ECU it has a 4 tooth even crank input. Which means it recieves its signal every 90 degrees. How the ECU calcualtes the acceleration or decceleration of the motor in between these signal depicts how good the timing control is. I have tuned a few EVO 8 and 9's with our XEDE processor and have found that it sometimes sets a P300 code(random misfire code). We know that its a problem with the calculation and we have corrected the problem. Spark capacity, well I could go on but it really has more to do with the current to ionise the gap then it does with voltage. While a high voltage ignition system will ionise a large gap its when the cylinder pressures are sufficent enought that it have more to do with the current than large volatge. I'm not trying to start shit but different ECU's do have different abilities!!!

Well I'll tell you what I think, not all ECU's are the same and not all ECU's are dependant on the tuners ability. There are definately different levels of engine management and cost does not always depict the best quality ECU for the application. Not all ecu's will give you the same power!!!! It may only be a difference of a few hp but an ECU's timing control ability can make a difference along with spark capacity. The whole menatilty that all ECU's are the same is just BS. Drive a properly tuned autronic GTR compared to a wolf3d GTR there's just no comparison.

Stick a modular motor in it with a 5.4L lightning positive displacement supercharger in it. SICK SICK SICK!!!

LPG is good on BBQ and thats where it should stay until they devise a proper and efficient way of introducing it into the port as a liquid via some control system.

Postive displacement supercharger on an rb25 with comp and cams would be alright.

I removed the glue, read the EPROM and retuned it to suit. I have an R32 GTR as well. I found the tune not too far off to tell the truth. 240rwkw on 11PSI

I'm surprised none of those rotors put oil down!!!!!

I too am in this postion (spun a big end). After I open the motor I found that there was pitting on pistons 3 and 4 suggesting lots of detonation(in Japan I suspect) as well as a scoured bore. The problems with imports is that you dont know what kind of life they have had in japan. I did a comp test on my before I bought it thinking it was in good nic 6months down the line this happened. Reading the bearings would suggest that it had coped a fair amount of detonation however the marks looked to have been acid etched over. My thoughts are that it sustained alot of detonation in conjunction with shite oil, after it was imported I flushed the oil (causing the etching) and ran new oil in it which may have prolonged its life but the damage had already been done. Point being even if you buy another half cut how do you know what type of condtion its in??? Thats why I decided to rebuild mine with forged rods and pistons should work out around the $5k mark. Thats alot cheaper than a rb26 half cut.

Well actually both BMW and Nissan have multiple fuel and ignition maps its more of a case that the knock sensing, detection and implementation of what the ECU needs to do in order to stop detonation within the nissans is alot more dated to that of the BMW. I've seen lots of nissan detonate for long periods of time and not swap to use lower octane maps. I believe that manufatures specify the octane rated so that maximum performance can be had from the car which makes it more sellable. All cars a different with their abilities to detect knock, I've found that mitsubishi and toyota to be very good while nissan and subaru to be quite the oppisite. I can definately tell you that I wouldn't run either nissan or subaru on ULP thats for sure.

Incompetent dyno operators!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The way dyno dynamics works is by applying a constant load on the rollers, the amount of load is user defined in no shootout mode however in shootout mode the load or ramp rate is pre set meaning that it cannot be changed. The data that needs to be entered in such as gear and tyre pressure will make no difference to power however the barometric pressures, room temps and intake temps will. The other number which is very important is the tacho number as this is the number that is needed to determine torque. The way the tacho number is found is by running the car up to set speed and taking the rpm at this point. This is why you can run a car in any gear and you should still get the same hp reading because in lower gears the accleration rate is faster but the tacho number is higher while the taller gear have a slower acceleration rate but a lower tacho number. The reson that your car ran 240kw's in third is probably due to the fact that the car crept up off the rear rollers meaning it doesn't have to spin them which increases the acceleration of the car hence increase in power. I usually use taller gears or straps as it stops this happenings.

What you need to check and probably what they didn't 1. Boost leak - if there is a slight leak you might still get the boost pressure its showing. you will also notice the mixture being rich as. 2. Base timing - if it 10 degress retarded then you will have no power. 3. Exhaust restriction - check your cat hasn't melted (If its been heavily retarded the standard ecu has enough fuel in the top end to destroy you cat). 4. Check plug quality and tension make sure there is no arc(white marks) on any of the boots thats if it missing. Really need more information on what has been done and what they found. Go and ask them for every dyno sheet displaying AFR and boost. Also get a duty cycle value on the boost control solenoid. If its 100% DC then something is wrong - exhaust restriction, f**ked turbo or a leak.

The gear does matter as the higher the gear the faster the acceleration hence the more the power. I do believe that there are some happy dyno's around and I think thats what dezz saw, as the a car that crept up off the rear rollers due to the higher torque gear; hence the high reading.

bump

What about pair of 2510's?

Jump start it with another car that is running if the problem goes away then your altenator is stuffed. What you usually find is that as the car goes to stall the alternator voltage gets very low and bring up the charge light. I dont think this will be your problem as the standard ECU will have very good corrections for battery voltage anyway. I'm still suss on the TPS sensor and if you find thats fine then you really need to determine whether or not the ECU is driving the AAC valve and also if the vlave itself is actually operating. What happends if you disconnect the AAC valve and then start it?

Check TPS is still working and is set in the right position. It also sounds as though the idle bypass screw within the AAC valve isn't set right. What is meant to happen is that when you come to a rest the TPS should register 0% so then it sets the right duty cycle on the AAC valve to gain the desired idle rpm (850rpm). Now if the TPS doesn't register closed throttle then the AAC valve will not try to control idle and hence stall. The AAC valve itself should only control about 20-25% of the total air thar the engine needs at idle out of gear AC off, the bypassed air will deliver the remaining air required.

Are you sure your mixtures are ok. That sounds more like a dying fuel pump giving you a lean condition causing detonation.

I swear theres about three differnet topic in this one thread!!! Thats correct if there is enough gas flow to spool the turbo to the wastegate pressure then it will go there no matter what, but you can control what happens after that with regards to boost level and spool rate 8 pounds onwards which is usually the case as I dont know too many people with tractablility issues at 8 pound.