rob82

Tuning a PFC is a bit like playing Donkey Kong. So if your any good at nintendo then you shouldn't take very long. Have you tuned any other managment?

Dont mean to burst your bubble but make sure you get it tuned by a reputable tuner. We tuned a 500hp built 930 Porche TT over here on the Gold Coast. It had been tuned by some guru in Perth that used all of about 5 of 200 available features of an autronic. The car was that rich that it had washed the bores!!!!

I would talk to your ROM tuner first, cause I bet they wouldn't recommend the 550cc. And if they do they obviously havn't tuned on them before. Both my boss and I have had trouble with those injectors when tuning factory ECU and I also know that Martin Donnan had the same problems down south, very shite low pulse width control. Rotories dont care because they just drink fuel.

Is the value of AF Base the learned AF correction? In which case it is quite lean. Check the O2 sensor grounds and its bias with chassis and ECU ground. Also maybe a noisy crank signal. Try running another ground to the CAS. If this dosn't work try one from another car.

Remember you can lose power with stiffer springs.

Check base timing, check fuel flow and pressure - at least 2.5l/min at 38 psi. Do a code check to make sure its not TPS and then I would be checking your AFM again.

I recently developed an engine noise in my r32 GTR that sounded like either a shrunk skirt or a spun bearing. I opened the oil filter only to find speckles of copper which would say to me that I have spun a big end. The motor is still in the process of coming out and I have a few decisions to make as to what components to use as I've heard so much crap from different people. It seems engine builders will bag other products but when you ask why they cant really answer you. THe decisions I have to make are: 1. Pistons - CP or Wiesco seems to be the choice. What are the differences between the two aka - piston weights? silicon content? clearences? I think the wiesco's have a lesser compression height than the CP's, is this right? What rings to use? They will probably be 1mm oversize. 2. Head gasket - Cometic have a pretty good reputation? I'm looking at a static comp around 8.8 - 9 as bigger cams will be going in down the track and I want good response. 3. ARP stud kit? Is it necessary? I think the RB26 doesn't use convention head bolt theory so you must replace them? I will use arp rod bolts as well. 4. Main bearings? No idea what to use are the ACL any good? Can you guys think of any thing else apart from the obvious I will need for a 500rwhp built motor?

Just remove your EPROM and read it. Then edit that binary image.

The smoke you were seeing was propably from it leaning out and pinging its nuts off.

Hell who really gives a shit what ecu is in a drag car. Comparing high horsepower drag cars to a street car is just ignorant this is why a microtech will do about the same job as a MOTEC minus all the logging. The beauty of the autronic is that once you map out the VE table all you have to do is change your commanded AFR ratio to wathever you desire. Change turbo's, boost who cares your not changing volumetric efficency. This is how most standard holden and ford speed density ecu work.

I tuned an ED 4.0l with a blocked cat today 78rwkw to 162rwkw.

Problem with ditching the AFM's on a car with mutilple throttle bodies is the poor vacumm quality with low throttle transitions usually between 0-5% TPS. This is why I would use an Autronic as you can tune TPS based to a certain point and thn tune speed density afterwards.

We often use post intercooler AFM in supercharged AU falcons as the standard length between throttle and AFM is about 30-40 cm. So when you introduce a intercooler with 2 meters of piping with the AFM placed before the supercharger you get a lean acceleration condtion on rapid throttle transitions. This only comes about because the standard ECU is calculating the air to be only 30-40cm away. That said the standard nissan ECU is calibrated so it expects the the pipe length, IC volume etc,ect into its calculations. It will have minimal effect if the AFM is placed before or after the IC as the AFM calculates the mass of air entering a cylinder.

Also - just because its not pinging doesn't mean that your not heating the chamber/pistons by running it that lean. If they're standard pistons I would be getting a retune real soon or just adjust your WOT fuel to add 7% 4000 onwards.

Is the original harness there? Paulr33 - microtechs dont and will probably never use an afm. It looks to me as though there might not be enough DC the first thing I would try is to increase the injector pulsewidth. The standard FPR will do the job fine. If it is still leaning out chances are its the pump. At 60% DC your using about 2.2l/min of fuel. For around 220rwkw you would want at least 3l/min at 3bar.

Yeh we know its a big turbo look at where it spools. I'm more worried that it made no more power once it was on boost.

Looks like he's got not timing in there at all. Then again could just be a mushbox as well. Was the trans slipping?

Do yourself a favor and just throw it in the bin. I would use it as a paper weight but its too lite. And if you really feel that you need it dont get rid of the standard FPR it does a nicer job of maintaining fuel pressure as is has a steel diaphram. Just place it after the return line from the standard FPR so it will only provide the extra pressure required. What do you need it for anyway?

Your right in what your saying but remeber that larger pumps flow more fuel which may be too much for the stock FPR in which case your fuel pressure can rise. ie - the stock FPR cant return enough fuel to the tank hence increasing fuel pressure. This condition might only be apparent at idle or low loads when there is not much flow out of the rail through the injectors. I have seen this happen and wouldn't you know it was a CAPA fuel system. Depends on how the the pump is wired to - from memory aren't R33 dual stage? rmahnovetsky - what are your fuel trim levels at idle and cruise? Is there a steady progression into open loop? Also are you saying that the fuel pressure is 73.5 PSI (no vacumm?). In which case your economy is going to go to the shithouse along with others things coldstart etc.

Yeh I realised that after posting it. But yes I was talking about EMS as in stinger 8860 ect ect. Sorry Taffy my bad.

Contact EMS. I've have had so many problems with EMS. The only car I've seen that ran EMS well was a supra. Make sure you set the resolution of your laptop monitor over 800x600 so you can see the air temp and water temp correction tables. Dont even bother using the autotune function - absolute shite. Havn't had any problems with losing sync but we did have some problems with timing control on a e30 v12 BMW. Send the unit to EMS and get the latest firmware would be the first thing I would do and get them to configure it for your car and then see what happens. Make sure your tuner has used one before as they are an absolute dick around and you can burn lots of hours and still not get a result.

No - will be lean in most all the way thru the revrange as there is less velocity over the AFM sensor due to the larger diameter and flow characteristics of the sensor and its body.

Maybe you turned your straight six into a flat 4. Did you werl a black wond - I've seen it happend too many times the clock strikes 12 and all of a sudden bam 4 cylinders.

Microtech's are built to a price they do fuel and timing and thats about it. The LTX12 has a few extra options idle control and an addtional output its all on the website I think. You only need to take a look at timing control in a static conditon to apprciate how shit the timing control is. As for idle control actually not to bad considering. Closed loop - kiss that good bye. The biggest problem is the variation of MAP signal - you can use a pill to damp this off but in the end its still shit. I am bias because the main aim of where I work is tuning standard ECU's but we also tune microtech, xede, PFC, haltech , motec and autronic. You will actually gain more torque across the board with the standard ECU as it has better timing control. ie the standard ECU is 1deg sensitive as is PFC whereas a microtech is about 3deg sensitive. You just cant go past the PFC or Chip IMO. (Hmmm prepare for the flamming) If your tuner wants to go with a chip go down that road and get it retune later chances are there wont be that much to do.

You dont know what happened in that time at the servo. They could have changed tanks over after complaints you just dont know. If your blaming the ethanol blend of fuel I would be more enclined to test it again maybe from a different servo. As I said above ethanol is more likly to cause an ongoing problem aka dislodged particles blocking injectors ect and that is the risk with ethanol. The fact that after changing fuel and all symtopms went away would suggest to me that it was just shitty fuel.