rob82

By that knock level you should actually start to hear it through the fire wall. Is it a temperature based problem ie does it do it at night on the highway or slow cruising around town in the heat of the day?? If you pull 2 deg out globally does it stll do it??

Fuel cuts aren't a lean condition as all the injectors are shut off. Knocking on the rev limiter is usually from crackshaft harmonics due to the massive rotational decelleration. Find out when the knock occurs and we might be able to help you out more.

You cant just splice into the loom and piggy back the ECT and TPS as the internal biasing of the standard ECU will be different to that of the microtech. That means you need an additional ECT sensor to be drilled and tapped somewhere. By the way you cant show drivability on a dyno graph and if you've ever seen a scoped a microtech timing signal you would would not be very impressed with what you saw. I have tuned a throttle/speed density based microtech on a GTIR (4 individual throttle bodies), I have also tuned the factory computer on a GTIR and there is no way I would recommend a lebotech on any thing with multiple throttle bodies.

Amen to that!!! I give it a month from installation before the motor lets go depending upon the tune. IMO Malpassi's are shit and should not be put on any turbo charged car thats running high boost levels. Its just that I dont trust a flimsy bit of silicone nomex to control fuel pressure at the pressure levels your going to be using, probably around 70 - 80psi I presume. One good thing about them is there ability to not hold pressure when the fuel pump is not running (bandaid fix for leaky injectors). The reason that standard FPR and sards are so good is that they have metal diaphrams making them impervious to pulsations through the fuel rail. However if you still decide to persist in putting that junk on your car then leave the standard fpr where it is. The return line from the standard reg then feeds into side of the malpassi reg and the return from that then goes back to the tank. Make sure both still have a good vacumm signal. This way the majority of the pressure is held by the standard FPR.

Have you try just running wastegate pressure? As in cooler hose to wastegate. If so what happens then??

Amen to that. The problem with multiple throtlle bodies is that you have a very poor vacumm signal at low throttle angles which means you have to tune tps vs rpm based until you have enough vacumm on board so you can switch over to speed density based tuning. Dont defile your gtr by putting a microtech on it when a PFC has twice the features for less cost. If you do go map based then put an autronic SM4 on it and get it tuned by someone reputable.

Is the wolf controling the idle speed via IAC valve? Chances are its pinging cold as there will be about 4 -8 degress more timing on top of the main table at around 30 deg ECT.

Where in the world did you find those figures?

Why only spin it to 10000rpm I'm sure the VL bottom end could see 15000 rpm!!!! Tuning is for girls any way!!!

Malpassi's are good for paper weights and are a good band aid fix for leaking injectors. Sards are very good, but the standard FPR is just as good(just doesn't have any adjustment). Why you need a FPR?

Sounds like a fairly normal driving situation so I would be more enclined to retard the actual ignition timing in the IGN map at the load and rpm it occurs than to change any temperature based compensations.

My guess would be a f**ked 02 sensor.

If you look closely you can just make out the track marks along the insulator. I would recommend iraway 7's as they are pre gapped. The beauty of iridiums over coppers is that you can open the gaps up a little more.

Chances are it will have to do with intake air temps usually from heat soak of the intercooler while sitting in traffic with minimal air flow over the element. It may also happen in taller gears as the accelleration rate of the car slows with more speed on board. Manufacturers get around this by using a vehicle speed based spark retard map - aka V8 AU falcon. Try to establish when it occurs ie. transient throttle, in traffic driving, highway driving, what is the ambient temps like, fuel quality etc etc.

Yes definately need both sensors as the front cylinders trim independantly of the rear three cyinders. If you splice them together you may get undesirable condtions where the front three cylinders enrichen the mixtures while the rear three cylinders are trying to enlean mixtures and they are both using the same sensor. Have seen a similar situation with a GENIII that had the 02 sensors around the wrong way so one bank went extremely lean while the other went extremely rich.

Week after week I see another thread about ECU resetting and the misunderstanding of what it actually does and the problems it can cure. It may not fix a shitty idle if: 1. the plugs are f**ked 2. the base timing is wrong 3. there is a manifold leak or PCV valve or rocker cover vent is venting to atmoshere 4. the MAF or another sensor has failed and or wiring to the sensor/s 5. TPS sensor is not zeroed with throttle closed It will not fix open loop fuel mixtures, that means resetting the ecu will only affect closed loop fuel control which is "approximately" between 0 - 4000 rpm and from vacumm to about a couple of pound of boost (very general description). So above 4000 rpm and above around 2pound of boost the mixtures will go rich as this is standard nissan programming. Resetting the ECU may increase timing as there is usually two ignition maps hi and lo but this is usually only if the ECU has seen enough detonation to warrant defulting back to a low octane map. Resetting the ECU does a few other things with idle stability usually leared cranking IAC position or learned idle IAC postion but I wont go on. The most likely problem with excessive fuel consuption is the fact that you've increase the boost to a point in which the car makes no more power as the ignition is that far retarded and the AFR's are so rich. Hope this clears up some misconceptions.

Not sure on the setup with the link as I have never tuned one but is it setup for the rb trigger input? First thing's first check that you have injector pulse and spark to all cylinders. Then check its in the right spot by removing all plug leads, unscrew no1 spark plug and with it connect to the coil turn over the motor by hand with ignition on and check the spark is some where near TDC. This is just a start as its been said there are about a thousand different things it could be.

Give me a copy of the bin's and I will find everything you need will take me about a day.

Only guys with small decks say that size doesn't matter!!!

Thats the one I need will find out tomorrow.

It will be the one with a big obvoius sticker on it. If you've opend the ECU and there is no sticker it may not have our chip in it as every chip is serialised.

I work for ChipTorque if you open the ECU case there should be a sticker on the Chip just PM the serial number and I will check if the speed limiters and airflow limiters are removed, chances are they would have been set to maximum values. Sometimes we set the TP to just above the desired boost so if a hose falls off it will still cut just for protection. However the problems your describing dont sound like a programming issue.

Thats right it is an error code and if set the ECU will use limp home timing numbers which is a heavily retarded map from either of the two ignition maps. As I said if a reset does not clear the code 34 then you probably either have a wiring problem of a sensor fault. As for learning the octane rating the ECU will advance timing until it see a certain level of knock from which it will determine wheter to use high or low octane timing and fuel maps.

Reseting you ECU will clear any learned values as in long term fuel trims, idle valve duty cycle values and possibly octane rating of the fuel you have been using. The chip itself is within the non - volatile address range within the ECU so it cannot be cleared with a reset. As for the code 34 it is quite common to see. If it continues to be set you will have no ignition timing what so ever.