rob82

What I meant to say is that if it was stuck open manifold pressure would then pressurise your crankcase system causing excess oil to vent into the intake pipe. Its a common problem on VL's. And does cause lots of oil smoke when the car is on boost.

You could try putting a restrictor between the boost control solenoid and where it T's into the wastegate/boost signal point. THis way it will limit the amount of air the solenoid is able to bleed off.

Looks like a steelman chassis ear except it uses generic knock sensors to pickup noise compared to just a normal piezo electric pickup.

I would be checking that you PCV vavle is working as if it is blocked it will pressurise your entire crankcase including rocker covers which may be causing excessive blowby. You'll be able to blow thru it only one way thou; towards the intake pipe.

Have seen it happen on xr6t's with over 330rwkw's. What happens is that they bend rods ever so slightly however they never develop noise and all it takes is a slight decel and the piston to knuckle over and pick up on the bore. Pulls the little end out of the piston and then goes on to air conditioning the block.

Tuned an SM4 on a 300awkw WRX just last week. 2 hours on the bench plotting base maps assigning pins and the general setup. Once on the dyno I did a bit of plotting around 1500 - 4000 rpm bracket and the first WOT run ran 10:1 where I was commanding 11.5:1, second run bang on the money 11.5:1. So all in all 1 hour on the dyno 2hours on the bench not including the wiring. Lets see a motec, haltech, microtech do that from no base maps. Hope that gives you an idea of the ability of the autronic.

Took 290 dyno runs to tune you MAP based ECU hey??? And to answer you question around 17-18 total timing would have been my thoughts but like it has been said above probably best to listen to it on the dyno with a chassis ear.

Spoken by someone who has no idea what a real ecu is. If you want to go map based then there is no other option but Autronic however like Sydneykid said no other aftermaket computer apart from link has knock sensor input and output even if it is only to the dash. The problem with running AFM's is that they degrade with time so they need to be replaced, but they still are the best way of metering incoming air bar none. I could talk till I'm blue (as could other members) in the face as to why the PFC is the better option but it still doesn't seem to sink in. Oh well.

What comp? What cams? What fuel? Have you dechamfered the head? What intake temps?

Tuning for power is the easy bit. I wouldn't necessarily assume that because a certain workshop can get a certain amount of horsepower out of car instantly makes them good tuners. Biggest misconception ever. Lets see how they tune for drivability, cold starts, transitional points in the maps and fuel economy. All that said Lebotech's are about the easiest ECU's to tune as long as they are in MATRIX mode which I would suggest you tune in.

THe knock sensor is still active however the ECU disregards any noise it may pickup above 4000rpm. I believe that nissan turn it off at that rpm as there is too much engine noise above that point.

Worst case bent valves. You are not going too be able to tell which way does what on the road you really need a dyno you could probably just set it to a position that other people have found to be good with rb20's.

There are usually 2 ignition and 2 fuel maps for hi and low octane fuel for most Japanese Cars (Nissan, subaru, mistubishi and toyota). Knock sensors in early nissans are only active up to 4000 RPM under medium to high load(not sure on r34 and above). That means that if it senses too much engine noise in this map area it will then use the lower octane fuel and ignition maps. If it still senses too much engine noise it will not retard the timing above 4000rpm!! If you can hear detonation through the firewall then it will be doing your engine damage. A good way to check for detonation is to have a look at your spark plugs and ckeck the insulator is not cracked, also you might see some pitting on the edges of the plug - this is more common.

Yes it has those inputs but what I was getting at is that you cant assign those inputs to a table and change the axis of the table and the fuction of table itself. Basically you cant configure the haltech to take in 4 shift solenoid inputs and assign a load/ignition retard table to each input. My boss isn't sure that he wants to develop the xede much further. I however can see that it would work just need his go ahead. If I can drum up enough interest then it will go ahead. The thing with the nissan CAS is that they have a weird 6-5-4-3-2-1 crank signal thats is very unique. Which doesn't mean it couldn't be done. My cars is currently off the road which means I need a test car. It usually only takes a day to configure the xede for a car we have never seen before. In that day we scope the crank trigger and then get the computer engineers to configure the xede. All the other sensor will be easy as they are very generic in their operation. PS: the 350z has a 36-1 crank trigger which is very common.

www.xede.com.au Its developed at my work ChipTorque. We use it on the BA falcons, the entire subaru range, the entire mitsubishi range but mostly the EVO's in the states, lotus elise - in the states, porche -996TT, BMW - M3. We even used it on a turbo RX8 that we were contracted to tune by MAZDA Autralia. I tuned a 296rwkw 1jze soarer auto a couple of weeks ago. Its really just depends on the crank signal as to what we can put it on.

Its more of a case of the xede was designed as a piggyback while the haltech was designed to be a standalone ECU. In both situations you will have to piggy back either system. Its just that the haltech cant do the torque reductions on shift while the xede can.

This is the problem everyone is having with wiring over the top of the original computer as unless the haltech can take 3 inputs (which as far as I know it cant) and apply a igntion retard based on a torque calculation (maybe MAP input but would be shitty) then its going to wear your trans really quick. I know the new autronic SM4 has WOT ignition cut but thats still not good enough as its the medium and light throttle driving that I think will contribute to the most wear. The problem is that all aftermarket ECU drive the coils directly which is where the problem is. Now I'm not trying to plug the XEDE here but AFAIK it is the only piggyback apart from unichip that moves the crank reference in order to trick the ECU into think there is more or less timing. This way it still allows the standard PCM to still control ignition retard on gear shifts. Your really at the level where you need fuel and timing control which the XEDE can do both as well as boost and water/methanol injector control. It will also account for larger injectors as well.

How are you going to get around the torque retard on shift points using the haltech???

Is it actually pinging or is the knock sensor picking up spurious noise. They have two tps as the auto's use one tps for its shift schedualing.

Drill and tap.

If you can hear it through the firewall then its got too much timing!!!!! I actually have a piezo electric pickup bolted to my block. I then output the sound through my stereo so I can hear if there are any dubious noises.

Have you maybe thought that it hasn't broken yet because the boost has an almost linear rise to it. Looks like huge wastegate creep to me and I would probably leave it as is because it will be alot more tracable down the track and will not stress the internals as much as it would if you had more boost in earlier.

I love this topic. Any way to reduce roational inertia will increase acceleration of the enigne and acceleration on the raod. Increase in acceleration of the engine means that additional timing can be added which increases torque. And as for turbo engines it doesn't matter if your reducing the load on the motor becuase it will be offeset by the addition exhaust gas flow due to the quicker reving motor. And as was said earlier never remove a harmonic balancer on a motor that was designed to use one, unless you want to twist you crank.

That might reset the idle and closed loop control but as for remapping an R33 it is very difficult as the memory segment in which the calibration data is sotred is internal to the microprocessor. The device is write once only, which means every change you make you throw away that processor and start again. Not to mention you have desolder the acutal chip itself which is quite involved and has its risks. The actual tuning is really quite easy and there is no checksum routines to perform or bypass thank god(you should see the 996TT checksum routine). As for places in melbourne I have no idea but I think there is a guy on this forum that has done a few using the techtom boards, weather the tune wa any good is another story.

Was the car properly strapped and so forth? What gear and was it shoot6F. When it breaks see if you can determine what the weak link was.