rob82

We put our Xede processor on a VRX 380 and picked up 15-20rwkw throughout the entire rev range. Highway fuel consumption went from 10l/100km to 8.5L/100km.

Check the mixtures on a dyno - the insulator should be alot blacker than that for that heat range and horsepower level. Doesn't look to be an aluminium on the plug itself so you might not be doing damage yet.

Like I said the rings wont bed if its too rich as it will wash the bores - so run it in on the dyno and make sure your mixtures are right.

The white spherodites on the exhaust wheel is usually from burning oil. The fact that your spark plug looks fine maybe a little too clean would suggest that the oil maybe leaking form the turbo. What is the heat range of those plugs and how much power is the car running? Also as stated earlier the white powder is aluminium oxide usually cause from water getting in there and sitting, make sure you clean all the oil and debris around the coils and boots so you dont get a miss fire.

Rings wont bed if you wash the bores. Just run it in on the dyno - get them to do a bottom end tune up to 3 or 4 psi of boost and 5000rpm.

Race cars dont need to transition from low percentage throttle to a point where there is good vacumm. There operation is all above this.

Wolf ECU's and mutliple throttle bodies dont mix - they hardly work on single throttle body's. Comparing a Wolf to a Motec thats funny does it do ETC and cam control??

You can take a global percentage out, its called the Mix trim. Because they are twice as big doesn't mean they flow twice as much at low pulse widths so just take out 30% and see how you go. You might struggle with those injectors using a microtech economy wise.

Are they seriously printing that shite - those f**king idiots. Lets remove the screen for an extra pooftienth of a HP. I know removing the screens on nissan based airflow meters doesn't make much difference to the fueling and ignition but its so not the case with other manufactures where the screen is there for straightening purposes.

Why bother? I wouldn't butcher a nice looking dump like that for no reason.

Charcoal canister - for emmissions.

It can be done but the daughter/expansion boards are about $1300. And it cant be emulated so no tuning just guessing plus the micro's are write once only so each time you want to change something you throw away it away and get a knew one.

The transition from off boost to on boost will be the hardest part. What you want to do is be able to vent under cruise condtions ie- low throttle conditions and then shut the vavle under high throttle angles until you acheive the desired boost and then slightly bleed the required air. ie Boost control Map - MAP vs RPM with the variable being duty cycle. So at low pressures you have 100% DC on the solenoid so all of the signal to the BOV is removed so as to vent the air. Once the desired boost is acheived you want the signal to be returned to the BOV so it can vent and stop over boosting so you would have 0% DC on the solenoid at this point. You really want to use a properly designed venting valve. We use them on big HP superchargered cars where you need to vent alot of air in cruise and low - medium speed driving. Procharger make one, from memory it uses a little throttle type system.

The temperature of the dyno room was actually about 32 degrees and I was in too much of a hurry to change it so that figure of 195rwkw is real and I would say that it would make within 5rwkw on another dyno in Shoot 6F properly setup. Dont know what Matt told you but your AFR's were mint and yes I was amazed at that power too.

There is a heap of other reasons as well. Check you base timing.

The unit has been back to them to check over it and I told them that it was a distributor setup. I'm not sure how much more spoon feeding they want me to do. The unit came in a car with no manuals!!!

Its pretty much a case of sharing some sensors with the factory ECU basically the only sensor you want to share is the crank reference. I'm not actually sure on the trigger setup involved with a motec on a skyline but you might have to make an external trigger setup - 12 even is usually what alot of people use. That way the the motec can now take control of the timing. Then all that is needed is to patch in over the top of the injectors with the motec, make sure the impedance across the standard injectors is the same as the standard inj by using resistor. Make sure also that you use a separate ECT sensor and if possible another TPS because if you share them the internal impedances between the factory ECU and the Motec will be different which will mean you will have floating voltages and your TPS will never be set right.

The stock ECU actually made more power. I would have put this down to the fact that the cam control is about a thousand times better than motec's.

Really is that the case hey. Maybe you should call Simon from Nizpro and ask the power difference on Brian Lords XR6T when converted from the wizz bang M800 back to the standard ECU bout 20rwkw I think he said and I trust his judgement.

Its was a plugin ECU. I personally would never put a Wolf3d into any of my customers cars. From my expereinces there is just too much greif involved when they go wrong. I think their software is clunky and shite and half of the functions dont work. And for them to start charging for software what a rip!!!!!! Say does anybody want to buy a wolf3d its been QA by them which means its tip top!!!!

I'm with you on this one maybe not right up to 7k at first though. I usually put 20kw load on and accellerate through to 3/4 of the rev limter max and then decel, then reapeat about 5 times and then double the load and do the same thing and then double the load again. If you engine isn't run in, in the first 500k's then it will probably never be run in. I'm sure this will get some controversy as well!!!

What your describing is the TTP limit (airflow limit fuel cut) this is how alot of japanese ecu's work. They compare the g/s of ariflow vs rpm to a set maximum if it's above this then it cuts the injectors. There is only two fuel and two ignition maps for hi and low octane no others (apart form idle timing and a few others), so there is no such specific R&R map its just the overfuelled and retarded section of the ignition or fuel map.

There is no Rich and Retard stategy that the ECU impliments when it thinks that you have wound the boost up. Its simply just goes rich and retarded at really high load points. Its all in the map!!!!!

With those turbo's your going to need to spin it to like 11k before anyhting is going to happen. So I would go the biggest cams you can find. Hope you have good valve springs. And bigger doesn't mean that there will be more lag esspecially if you dial them in appropriately.

I'm with you on this one, detonation isn't going to do this. I would still like to see the big ends as they will probably show more of the story. If the little end is hammer the big end certainly is going to be showing signs of abuse as well.