rob82

Have you check the base timing. The knock sensor operates between 0 and 4000rpm, if it is sensing knock then it will retard the timing untill about 5000rpm. Always check the basics first.

You can tell if a car is misfiring on a dyno as the mixtures will go lean, unless you are running a fuel that carries its own oxygen like C16. It actually sounds like an AFM problem though. What type of pod filters do you have as a few brands will actually break off and lodge on the sensor which will give you the symptoms you are describing. Would also like to know who did the tune.

Your O2 sensor operates up to 4000rpm and just below 0 vacumm. Hold the revs above 2500 rpm and check the voltage between ground and the signal voltage you can do this at the sensor or the ECU it dosn't matter as long as there is continunity. What you should see is an oscillating voltage between 0-3 volts I think. I'm pretty sure if you can replace the O2 sensor with an EL sensor the voltage variation will be between 0-3 volts. I know most 02 sensors are 1 volt but I think there where a few fords with 0-3 volt O2 sensors, perhaps someone could elaborate.

How much where you looking at R31nismoid to get the daughter boards. Did you have to reverse engineer them yourself and then produce them?

This isn't the only method, if you reduce the timing it creates a hot high velocity exhaust flow, this combined with enough bypass airflow should be adequate at maintaining shaft speed.

With a heat gun and lots of patience.

Hi guys, just had a few enqiries about chipping r33's and was wondering who would be keen to buy them. I'm trying to convince the boss to order in the daughter boards from Japan so we can make it happen. Not sure on cost yet will depend on the numbers interested. These chips are able to be customized to suit individual cars.

about 4 kg/cm^2 (I think is the scale) I have an oil cooler on mine and it cruises just below 4.

Are you going to use an antilag setup with the autronic? If the turbo isn't too large you will get positive boost of the line. Also what are you talking about the inlet air temperature, the lower the better. Are you running pump fuel, c16?

If you are near the Gold Coast I can do it. Just remapped my GTR, got 234rwkw on 12pound.

Whats your static timing? You may not be able to get enough timing out of it as the lowest timing you can go with a Microtech is static. Do a data log at full noise and check to see if the timing is whatever your static is; if it is reduce you static timing.

The only application I would put D-jetro on a car would have to be a full race only see's WOT drag. Would especially steer clear of the GTR's because of there multiple throttle bodies. Can D-jetro be throttle, pressure mapped?

I would try re-populating the board. If you've fryed the microcontroller then your stuffed, unless you can get the same controller with the correct program.

TE=6300 R=4.11 r=(((17/2)*25.4)+45)/1000 - radius of a 17inch tyre plus with 45mm profile. Thererfor r = 0.2609 meters. So T = TE*r/R, T = 399N.m. QED

The biggest problem with large camshaft duration is at low revs the quaility of the vacumm signal is very inconsistent. By increasing the diameter of your MAF your only making the problem worse as you are reducing the inlet velocity by a factor (Diameter orignal/Diameter uprated)^2. That said if your going back to PFC you shouldn't have to much trouble you will probably just lose some milage as you will have to tune it quite rich at low rpm in order to it stop surging. Whats the actual duration at 50 thou?

So let me get this right, it has direct control over the injectors? Also how the **** does it indivually tune the timing does it have direct sequential control over the ignition as well. And if it does do have control over both than why not just do away with the standard ECU? Maybe I'm interpretting it wrong.

Dont suppose you have a graph of power vs torque. Also what shootout mode were you in shoot_8?

check lines to actuator.

For 640 engine horse power you need about a 800cc/min at 85% duty cycle. I'm assuming the current 1000cc injectors are top feed low impedance? Sard are generally consider pretty good we havn't had much trouble with them apart from 1 car. However I find the nismo items have a much better low duty cycle accuracy, however not sure 740cc will get you there it will be very close as the rate flow is always a little more than stated. Has anyone found the limit of the 740cc/min nismo injectors?

Well thats just it. Go the smaller cam - you might not lose any power at all but will most probably gain better fuel economy. As for the 1000cc injectors I forgot to mention that the bigger the injector the harder it is to control low pulse width fuel flow -as in idle and cruise. If your happy with the current power output a reduction in injector size will most likely result in huge economy gains probly even more so than changing cam size.

The way the Autronic fuel injection works is based on VE efficency, so once you actually MAP the ve any non internal changes you make should theoretically make no difference, this is the beauty of the Austronic. This means you can run whatever boost and the fuel curve should look exactly the same. The better fuel consumption running open loop may be a little detrimental to chamber temp thought. If his target AFR is say 14.7:1 for the points around cruise and the VE is slightly wrong you may be running a little leaner or richer either way is what you want to avoid. The o2 sensor trims both directions as in if it to lean it adds fuel and if it is to rich it takes out fuel. After all thats the reason why ever manufacturer in the world uses an o2 sensor opposed to just running opn loop. It sounds to me that your not going to lose much power at all whats 10-15kw when you have 400 odd anyway. So its your best bet for better fuel economy.

When the car holds the idle up pull the IAC plug and see if changes RPM sounds like your IAC might be stuffed, blocked ect.

Yep how did you go? Have you installed a O2 sensor? Also what Autronic is it? Those cams do sound rather larger, what is the actual duration (at 50 thou) as I'm guessing 280 is advertised duration? What are the plans from better economy?

Yes light load and cruise is all still closed loop - which should be great for fuel economy. And no I havn't tuned and RX7 injectors in an RB20 - might take a bit of playing around with. There's usually two values that you have to play with in order to get the right balance. With unusal injectors it might take a bit more time. I will have a look around and get back to you tho.

I know. I have been doing it for the past year and its not something you can sell to a mechanic. He most likely has a HEx editor that displays data that is being accessed at that exact moment. If you've seen the current software you would now its just tables and tables of hexidecimal code. Such a negative bunch aren't we.