rob82

Take it out a quater of a turn.

Dont know where your getting the chip from but its more involved than just replacing the EEPROM as the memory is on board. You have to remove the Micro read it edit it socket the board and replace it with another micro as they are write once only. But to answer your question no it will not matter which series.

They probably adjusted the base timing at the 100k service. Put the timing back to where it was when it wasn't pinging maybe 3 deg less from where you are. Just to be safe. Take note if you retard the timing too far you will start to loose power, acceleration and it may even miss.

Check fuel flow should have at least 2.5l/min of flow at around 38-40psi of pressure. Also make sure the pressure increases when you pull the vacumm line to the FPR off. Also how does the car drive? If it is surging around cruise to medium trhottle it may be a build up of junk on the AFM sensing wire. This means you will be lean everywhere however the O2 sensor is probably adding fuel in, in its closed loop operation anyway.

Faif enough, what boost you guys running? What cam specs?

Just wondering if anybody has put larger cams on the standard turbos. It might end the debate to weather shaft speed or detonation is the killer of the standard ceramic turbos. ie running 13-14psi after cams are added.

Long term fuel trims only affect closed loop operation not open loop. Standard s14 and s15 silvias run closed loop fuel till about 6psi of boost - scary hey, not really just make sure your AFR are closer to 12 at the rev limit. If they are I wouldn't be too worried I would say thats a good tune. Towards the end of the rev range its more about quenching the chamber so that when hiting the revlimiter detonation will be avoided(as all cars ping on the revlimiter).

Its your TPS. Its not registering closed throttle(to much voltage). Bring your temperature up to above 80deg - check your timing and then reset the position of the TPS so you get the disired idle. Their is two 8mm bolts on the TPS loosen them and twist the TPS the oppisite direction to what the throttle blade shaft moves.

Who is doing the tune?

Ahh the plugs would have cleaned up on the track I would say. It would also take more than just an over boost rich mixture to foul your plugs. Check your codes and then pull the plugs just make sure their ok ie insulators not cracked also check for tracking.

LPG is for BBQ's and thats where it should stay until they can work out how to introduce it into individual runners/ports effeciently.

You've obviously got the motor apart so de chamfer the the head and plug the 9:1 compression pistons in. Been wanting to do the same to mine. Let us know how you go.

Why didn't you just chip it then you can do away with the SAFC and run whatever timing/AFR you or the tuner want. Dave at silverwater is the person to see in Sydney.

Sounds like the tuner new what he was doing.

Open the ECU case and look for the EEPROM chances are if its been chipped the EEPROM 27c512 will be socketed and chances are it will be glued to the board. In all essences of it a PFC is just a user friendly standard ECU.

The silver top had intake and exhaust lobe seperation of 6deg for each cylinder. To aid in the swirl effect. Pretty cool idea I thought.

Tuned length runners - ahhh. Just serch helmholtz resonance - this is the thoery behind timing the intake pulses to the opening of the valve. Very cool. Mercedes did alot of testing back in the early eighties and actually created a motor over 100% volumetric efficiency.

Sorry this tread is so long - just wondering if you are running standard comp?

That looks correct to me - well done.

Doesn't sound good. Can you turn the motor over? Test it with a long bar not with the starter motor as you might have hydralic lock by now and you will bend rods using the starter. Pull all the plugs and check for water.

Have seen twin throttle bodies on a VL 3.0L with medium cams made 141rwkws. Thats almost double the power of standard.

You would have a hard time trying to get 8psi with a 10psi actuator!!

Some of the subaru and ford guys make their own custom AFM. This means they take the sensing element out of their original AFM and place it in a tube. Highly technical, they have really taken into consideration the reversions flow criterias/characteristics that the sensor needs in order to work correctly, ie correct throttling and delta approach angles. We see all sorts of things at work, eg1. a cobra kit car with an EF 5.0L with an induction system about 10ft long with a AFM stuck on the end. There was a resonance created within the pipe due to the throttle and AFM that caused it to surge. The ecu was out of sync with what the AFM was saying it was almost perfectly balanced so that it would trim the fuel in the opposite direction as needed. Long story short if he had kept the original length of pipe between throttle and AFM it would have worked fine and thats what we suggested. It is possible to tune an AFM based on grams/s vs voltage (MASS transfer function). I do it all the time when dickheads pull the mesh off the GENIII MAF sensor - thats got to be worth at least 25rwkw's!!!!!!!!

If you want more fuel pressure make sure you put the rising rate regualtor on after the standard item as they retain pressure up to 40psi better than most aftermarket items as it has a steel diaphram.

Is Julian Edgar quoting 16:1 for a nissan? Is that cruise or lean cruise? Most cheap (non sequential) aftermarket computers wont cope with those kind of numbers. We continue to run lean cruise in most holden v8's with durations up to about 220deg at 50 thou as a rule of thumb. But this is only with sequential ECU's.