rob82

The richer mixtures at light loads is most likely to stop the car surging. This is where a slow speed probe should be used to determine CO and NO to determine the real combustion process. The higher the RPM the leaner you should be able to make it without surging. You could try setting your target 14.4-14.7 and see if the car cops it, but you would probably want to do this on the dyno. You could also enable the lean cruise function. Talk to your tuner he should be able to guide you.

The standard ECU, if it detects more knock than what it has learnt it will revert to a lower octane map of where the timing numbers are reduced. Ahh dont really want to reveal at this stage. Sorry

The software I'm making is just a way of editing the factory computer. Sure there are limits of the factory ECU of which I dont know yet but as I've said around 400rwkw is what i've seen and it drove beautifully. I never said that the PFC was inconsistent I just said that the standard ECU is more consistent, more powerful with mathematical calculations. The thing is how many skylines out there are over 400rwkw - not that many I would suggest. This is where my software will hopefully bridge the gap. I will say that the PFC is shit for tuning time but so are the likes of Wolf. The datalogit type software should be standard software with PFC IMHO. PFC is also my preference for the skyline in regards to aftermarket computers so dont get me wrong I'm not underestimating it at all. Dont knock the home PC thats where Bill Gates came from.

Been trying to get spray patterns and delta angles off injector companies for ages and I cant find shit on the net about them. As far as flowing the same as a 550cc injector I dont know about that. Its abvious that the larger the injector the greater the size of the pintle, therefore more force require to drive. There is a thing called void blast off time - which is the time from when the ECU sends the signal till the time the injector actually opens, typically the larger the injector the greater the delay. Usually when we select injectors we select the smallest injector that will do the job that is required. You could try the twin hole types as they void blast off may be smaller then your current 1000cc injector - I do not know for sure. Your real problem most likely lies with your tune - it worries me that your city and highway mileage is the same, is your closed loop fuel control working, O2 sensor? Not sure if 740cc Nismo's will get you there but I have found best control over the nismo items, if thats any bearing.

It runs the lower octane map if you put lower octane fuel in it that. It has sensitivity but no ability to retard the timing. The thing is the standard computer is more consistent than the PFC and doesn't need any higher resolution, the interpolation and extrapolation is exceptional. How much do you think nissan spent developing their ECU compared to APEXI I would say about a whole F***load more. The PFC is very powerfull computer dont get me wrong, its ok to tune and although a little nintendo like it does create a nice tune. THe difference comes in calculating the transitions and acceleration rates and predicting where the motor is heading thats what make a good computer. Try to think outside the box or inside the box I should say!

Is the fuel pressure fine under boost or just at idle, check FPR hose not off.

You can tune Low and HIgh Octane fuel and timing maps 16*16 resolution, knock sensitivity, acceleration pumps, CLT and MAT compensation tables. A knock sensor that actually retards timing when it sensors a certain level. It basically retains all of the original functions its just that with the software you will be able to alter these values to the new desire tune.

Sorry no we can chip the R33

Of course there will be a charge as there is with any tuning software. There's a market there for most of the people there that dont want rediculous power levels and dont want to spent $1200 bucks for a computer. We are hoping the chip will retain for $400 and do a better job than a PFC.

Thats the point I'm trying to right software to distribute it to appropriate tuning shops.

Sounds like an EBC problem get it check and if it looks ok check the Duty cycle to solenoid at the point it drops off.

LPG is good for BBQ's and thats where it should stay!!!

No the standard ECU MEC R-2**. I'm in the middle of writing some software so you can tune amost any nissan in real-time. Software should be available by the end of the year hopefully. This is what the Japanese do - aftermarket whats that? Its possible to get huge numbers out the standard ECU while retaining alls its functions. Mods included - new injectors(have tuned 740cc in a sr20det ran and cold started fine), new airflow meters(z32, q45,ect) cams, new turbo's. My boss tuned a RB26dett with 740cc injectors and a pair of Z32's AFM and N1's it made close to 400rwkw on std ECU. I'm in the middle of upgrading my r32 GTR hoping for the same type of numbers on the std ECU as well.

Autronic is the pick of the lot as far as engine tuning is involved. The motec datalogging is very nice thought. Autronic is also much more expensive than the wolf, microtech and PFC. Its fuel calculations using VE is also much more accurate and consistent than motec. Autronics closed loop PID controlled boost is the 1 of the best I've seen and much better than motec direct plug in computers. Most of the figure quoted in this thread are peak power, thats a shitty indication of a tune. Any decent tuner can tune peak power - give it the amount right fuel, advance timing till it pings and take a degree out for safety. Its the drivability, cold start, hot start, idle and cruise which most time should be spent tuning because this is the engine will spend 95% of its time. In my opion the best options is to retain the standard ECU and get it retuned. That way you retain the knock sensor function, real closed loop cruise, diagnostics, transient throttle drivability and limp home mode.

Check comp and if fine its probly a weaping compressor seal.

ChipTorque 1/50 Lawrence Drive Nerang Qld 4211 Phone : 07 5596 4204 Fax : 07 5596 4228 email : [email protected]

Chiptorque $150/hr probly take 1-2hrs

Make sure you use equal gauge wire to the ground as well. Make it a positive trigger relay(I know it sounds trivial but I worked on a 520 rwhp WRX today running two 044 and the system run a negative trigger relay with a tiny ground cable and the entire fuel system including braided lines was active as it was doing the grounding-very scary as we saw sparks as we were putting the c16 in). The bosch 044 pump is rated at 30amps peak but usually they usually only run 12-17 amps from memory. So a 30 amp fuse should be sufficient.

Think this is one of the EBC that has the closed loop PID boost dosn't it. My recolection of tuning the boost is to set the boost to your desired level and command the duty cycle to suit. Sounds like you have to much duty cycle early on which will cause the boost to spike as the boost climbs to quickly for the controller and all of a sudden it has to damp the oscillation.

Its probly running more boost, as boost was probably set on a dyno or at least during the day. Bleed valves dont compensate for temp differences as EBC do. Therefore in colder temps you run more boost. However the tuner should have allowed for more boost to be run and pulled timing out at those points. If its still doing it on the colder nights just go into INJ/IGN settings and take out 2 degrees and see if still doing it. Oh also are you using the same RON fuel as what it was tuned on?

I recently bought a GTR from Japan with an Impul tuned EPROM in it. The barstards glue the EPROM to the board so you cant read it - however this didn't stop me and I was able to pull the PROM and read the data. I really wasn't that impressed with there tune - very conservative all round, fuel was too rich in top end 11-10.5 and timing was very shy through power. Knock parameters where standard (not that it matters in the topend). Could be a blocked cat as well or some kind of inlet restriciton. My advice would be to check the cat/restrictions and then either get the ECU re-tuned or PFC.

Dont waste you time just go PFC it will pay off in the end.

I would strongly suggest that you dont touch your CAS let along lift your bonnent as you have no idea. PS. Go right ahead crank it all the way up if you want to destroy your ring lands, by the way are you one of those adults that get in at childrens prices.

Its used to stop reversion through the intake system during throttle transients. Its not used to provide a resverve of air for snap throttle. They also used them on all the older XR6's and maybe the 8's cant quite remember.

Hey guys just wondering if anyone has tryed raising the satic comp to 8.8 - 9:1 and run less boost just to try and get a midrange out of these motors.