rob82

Just T it to the BOV. I'm assuming that it has a boost signal.

Ahh, try buying a computer with a idle contol function.

I think you hit it on the head there Mik. Probably a combination of the two. I disconnected the EFI fuse today and ran the Peizoelectric pickup near the starter motor what do you know, lots of noise when turning over.

I see the dilemma - problem with Speed density based computers on cars with multiple throttle bodies is finding a good vacuum signal. IMHO I wouldn't use a MAP based computer in the quest to save a few hundred, I would use it at the point that they get too restrictive or a drag car situation where it only see WOT. To get a MOTEC with all the options, idle control, cam control ect installed and tuned your looking at over well $5000. Best bet would be to get a couple of Z32's as they flow more are a much more linear items then the standard MAF's and get a PFC. This tuned would be around the $3000 mark assuming everything goes right.

Most likely due to the Emanage changing the TPS signal. Shift points are usually shift event vs TPS vs road speed. ie at 100% throttle the car will change gear 1st to 2nd at say 55km/hr. Although I cant really see any reason why they would have changed TPS signal.

Who gives a shit about a gain function when there is a PID loop trimming the boost to the desired level. This is how the autronic boost controller tables work and it is well impressive. What you really want is a boost MAP, RPM vs Load just like any fuel or timing MAP. This way you can eliminate the wastegate cracking to early. I dont think you can compare a bleeder vavle to a ebc. ie if your wastegate spring tension is 8psi and you want to run 15-20psi how is a bleeder going to hold the boost further along in the rev range when more and more pressure needs to be bled from the actuator? If only everything was linear eh..

AVCR has closed loop PID boost control, you can even change duty cycle w.r.t RPM - WOW just like every boost controller should.

What computer are you using and do you have a neutral switch?

Thats right cubes I was just talking in laymens terms. I was actually wrong anyway, just had another look; a standard r32 GTR computer will activate the knock sensor between 0-4000rpm and a half to full voltage of the AFM.

In a standard ECU they operate between 0 - 4000 rpm and up to about 1-2 psi of boost. Within that range if an engine detonates it will retard the timing. In most applications a knock sensor will retard timing before you even hear or see it.

The standard s15 computer would sense an open circuit and deploy what some people call the rich and retard stategy, hopefully averting a broken enigne.

All RB's knock sensor only functions between 0-4000rpm. Like busky2k said there is probably too much noise above this point so it doesn't operate. That said I think everyone has made valid points. I have tuned my car on 98ron and if I run anything lower it detonates at full load. More people need to be wary of this!!!!! USE THE FUEL THAT IT WAS TUNED ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Depends what it is as to how much power you can extra and all the other variables. I have 234rwkw at 12pounds in my r32 with a standard GTR motor in it. My boss tuned a 400 awkw gtr on the standard computer. It had 740cc injector, Z32 AFM ect ect. Hoping to do the same with mine. Wouldn't mind having a go at tuning the Q45 ECU. There probly wouldn't be that much to change as the injectors and AFM are standard. It would probly just be a tidy up of the maps.

Well has he had the conversation about you get what you pay for in a microtech. If you only new what you could get staying with the standard ECU you'll be sadly dissapointed to have bought a microtech. Where do you live in brisy?

Dont go the microtech - you will regret it, sell it now while you still have the chance. 8 cylinder sequential injection my ass!!!!! Timing control - whats that?

Who tuned your car XR6T? And at what boost, what are you mods? Valve springs and injectors I'm guessing?

Your going have to be more specific, 1. Is it blowing fuel smoke? 2. Is there a lean pop when it gets to this point where it dies off? 3. Is it pinging before 4000rpm? 4. Is the timing staying where you set it? 5. Are all the IC piping/hoses tight?

Hey danny since you dont need those boost solenoids anymore do you want to sell them? $50

The mixtures will most probably change I'm sorry to tell you. In theory as long as the MAF calibration within the PFC is correct it should be close but it is never really the case in practise. A little off the subject but - I had to retune a twin screw supercharged VY crewman the other day with a new VZ 90mm MAF. The car was running the standard delphi ECU. What i did was copy the MAF calibration table from a VZ into the ECU. Now you would think with all the corrections available to the ECU that this should be enough but unfortunately it still needed some tweaking. Just goes to show that theory is still a fair way off compared to practise.

Generally the best way of deciding what fueling components to use is to choose the injector/AFM that will just get you to the desired power you are after. This way you maximise the resolution in your operating range. That said if a Q45 is the only AFM you can find at a decent price then I would just get that. I think you can change the resolution of the specified AFM within the PFC based on a percentage amount also.

No they are not detuned. They sometimes just physically retard the timing on some imports.

No, just remember that having no TPS will mean that it will go lean on rapid throttle movement.

It will probably be ok as the main fuel maths is done by the AFM, you might find that the transient throttle conditions will be shitty as the PFC wont know what the TPS is doing. You might find that it pops and farts as you blip the throttle ie. there is no accelerator enrichment. The PFC is dumb as shit and it really wont care about the TPS too much, that said it wont be that nice to drive either.

I can see why they would be useful for the RB30/26 conversions due to the harmonics but what has been found with using them on the rb26 cranks?

The standard ECU is most likely to give you the best fuel economy out of any ECU, aftermarket or not as long as all sensors are working correctly and the numbers you are producing are realistic. I have a stock GTR with a chip I tuned at work it puts out 234rwkw at 12 pound and returns figures close to 500km per tank on the highway. In standard trim all nissan computers are extremely rich in the top end, this is most likely to be the cause of the build up on your bumper. Try to remeber when deciding on who tunes your car that outright power is the easiest place to tune a car. The real furness is the light throttle tranistions, idle(not for nissans) and cruise; pretty much where most cars will drive the majority of their life. My advice to you satanic would be to just replace the 02 sensor with the generic item.