T04GTR

did a quick tune at gate pressure. (10psi) 520hp. not bad. need to remove the thermostat as the dyno fan on the radiator shuts it.. i havent played with the cams yet. so looking promising.

just took it for a lap around the block with a r35gtr 1000cc injector basemap 700kpa boost in 3rd bakes them.. perhaps the tyres have gone hard comes on boost pretty early. 3k ish things to fix. front wheel speed (for traction control) need to adjust the pedal to throttle ratio to make it smoother needs more tuning for the paddle shift needs some sound deadner for the tunnel. (gearbox is pretty loud) gas up a/c dyno tune need to learn how to drive again.... wait for a firmware patch to fix the farkn dash. (display freezes up if rpm is connected to it.....)

seem to be stuck with a vct rattle. ordered new Teflon vct seals and solenoids. the intake cams rattle at 3000rpm ish with no power to vct solenoids. put some advance in it and it gets louder... farken.. pulled timing cover off to see if i have a blown oil gallery gasket, all ok. o rings ok. has new vct gears. has poncams and jwt springs so i cant see that as being to much for the gears.. timing chains are all mint. (engine had low k's on it when i bought it) seems to have a oil pressure issue to the gears. nowhere to measure the pressure applied either.. but the cam angle is achieved almost instantly, so the gears work and oil pressure is there. cant see it being the gears, as they are the latest spec and have 0 km on them. il have to wait till the parts come in to see if that fixes it. going to tune it up anyway.

sorry for the lack of updates. had some small issues. gearbox linkage had to be redone after i got the paddle shift working. had to send the ecu back to the uk to fix the 5v output that i blew by reverse polarity (dt 12way connectors can go both ways... send battery power to 5v outs and into the can1 output also the superfan worked to well. it was cooling the water so much it was closing the thermostat, the then overheating. so i put on a "coolant in" temp sensor. and the fan is controlled via a custom 3d table via pwm. works really well now. and coolant stays within 2 degc idling or on the 2 step running e85 now. things left to do. : a/c hoses brake fluid reservoirs inner guard liners cal switches get a new efr boost solinoid (snapped the leg off one...) some kind of gear boot(not stopping it from driving) sort out some small issues with the dash (plex sdm700) more like i need to learn more about can communications.. (im kind of proficient with it now, but still not up to speed 100%) put the seats and console back in. get 2 ntk l2h2 lambda sensors that are the same.. (left bank runs abit richer showing the same lambda) egt tells the story so not heaps, just little bits and pieces. ps, what color should i powder-coat the inlet manifolds?

just filled up the coolant and power steering, so far so good i didnt leave much room for air filters, but they are in and fit up ok, going to drain the methanol, and fill up with avgas now.

well... it starts!! some wierd settings in a sub menu were stopping the engine from starting. video up soon. big thanks to Ryan from SYVECS. what took me over a week to work out he did in about 10 seconds over team viewer. (from Dubai) even on methanol it seems pretty good. now ive got to button up the body loom and put the interior and dash in it. yays

i have to stop saying "getting pretty close" thanks mate. yeah not alot of people know about them. mainly Porsche stuff. it would help if they had updated there website from 2005....

inter-coolers complete. and just setting up the new crank angle sensors.

made an auxiliary air tank for the paddle shift out of an old extinguisher. since the compressor and tank is in the boot. i didn't want any losses in the air pipes. has a short run of 3/8 tubing to the valve bock. also an under body photo showing how cramped it is!

getting pretty close now. just wiring and some more fab on the intercoolers. i read the wiring diagram wrong, and wired all the crank and cam sensors up backwards. killed all of them, so at $115 each i needed a better solution. so i picked the popular cherry gear tooth hall sensors, and turns out that a standard a/c pipe pad mount has the same dimensions as the sensors. the engine a gearbox ready for the 100th and final fit.

shouldn't be to different to an indycar. id say the "cool down" period should be extended. dont want a red hot housing sitting on a aluminum chra with no water flow.

HMMMM, OLD THREAD, but just weighed my 32 with vq35hr. rwd, 1190 dry with no interior at all. have to see how much all the stock interior coolant and carpet weigh. (still has the heavy stock sided intrusion doors aswell. if it comes in at 1300 dry il be happy.

i was looking at those rims on gtr and gtr parts...... nice. how do they go with a 275 mt on them?

not sure why there is huge gaps between the pics :s

more progress. its getting abit tight on the rh side with the intercooler and pump and the oil filter block intercooler water pipes are 1 1/4". just dummied up for now so i could see where i could fit the pump. (ewp130) the engine bay is almost complete except wiring and cooler pipes i used 2 w201 merc radiator welded together for the interooler heat exchanger. the are perhaps a little two tall. but still fit. i got a great deal on them. must of smudged the camera lens.. Modena engineering sequential oil filter all plumbed Ford cobra svt 8.8 irs conversion in the rear with a 31 spline wavetrac lsd using 2 stock axles 4" 316L exhaust. waiting on the muffler. 110liter fuel tank with 2 walbro 400's in a separate pot in the tank. still have lots of wiring to do. but shouldnt be to much longer as ive done most of the mechanical stuff.

more progress. its getting abit tight on the rh side with the intercooler and pump and the oil filter block intercooler water pipes are 1 1/4". just dummied up for now so i could see where i could fit the pump. (ewp130) the engine bay is almost complete except wiring and cooler pipes i used 2 w201 merc radiator welded together for the interooler heat exchanger. the are perhaps a little two tall. but still fit. i got a great deal on them. must of smudged the camera lens.. Modena engineering sequential oil filter all plumbed Ford cobra svt 8.8 irs conversion in the rear with a 31 spline wavetrac lsd using 2 stock axles 4" 316L exhaust. waiting on the muffler. 110liter fuel tank with 2 walbro 400's in a separate pot in the tank. still have lots of wiring to do. but shouldnt be to much longer as ive done most of the mechanical stuff.

sik! #goes to nismo fesival and steals a vk45 race motor from a super gt....#

i beg to differ... i have been around the block a few times with these things., but i agree, pulling the shaft is the best choice. fuse out and crack off the bleeder and if it still drags you need to pull the shaft.

yeas sure does take some time when only doing abit here and abit there + redoing things multiple times to get them rite. + a mechanics wage doesnt help either...

sounds like fun! just make sure its got the early transfer case with no preload on it. (ie with car up on a hoist you should be able to turn the front prop shaft with no resistance turning the rear shaft. or you will kill it in rwd.

been down this road myself. diff gears are ok. s14/15 r200 3.69:1 vq35hr awd (g35x) (same case as vr38) front diff gears 3.69:1 with a r34 getrag would be ok. some one i know went to the expense of getting albins custom 4.11 front diff gears made. why i dont know... i wanted to go awd, but the extra weight and cost was to much.+ i wanted it to look standard on the outside with out a big bonnet hump.+ the steering rack will ruin your life. as for a ecu, a syvecs s6plus plug and play ecu is the way to go. or s8gtr plug and play. will do everything you ever need. + dont have to be bent over for a m package, even with custom everything there isnt much room between the rails..

getting close. just finding the time has been hard + the 90 odd wires for the engine wiring harness took some time to make. got the air shift piston and linkage sorted so i can use the stick and have paddle shift. shouldn't get hot with the "super fan"

yeah, lol

yes some updates. having our lease up sucks. house hunting has taken a front seat over this. also i am abandoning the water to air intercoolers in the manifolds. the volume is to big and will make it lazy. (i need razor sharp throttle response for the paddle shift that im running. also bonnet clearance is an issue. i want to raise the engine a cm or 2 for ground clearance. stock sump will be marginal at best,, ive got some old hypertune s2000 plenum shells i am modding to fit. (shortening and mirror imaging one for the r/h bank) the water to air coolers will be mounted in the inner guards out of the way. all but finished my 110L fuel tank. all in 316L so it wont corrode. twin walbro 400's staged and an internal gated surge tank/pot

because i want it to pass an im240 if need be. my ecu can run it, and with proper injector placement i wont need as big. better economy and more consistent mixtures. ive got a set of moran billet atomisers that will do the job, but i want it done well. fyi the "2000 ish cc" injectors on the market are gas injectors and fail on a regular basis. there not meant for liquid petrol. let alone e85. the rubber seals inside swell and change there dynamic flow rate.