T04GTR

hmmm. red light is the oil light. if it is cutting out it could be a number of things. does it splutter then cutout or just switches of? ratteling sound is not good. check the crankangle sensor. does it have a black rubber cap on it with a mitsubishi logo or a alloy plug if its the alloy plug one id say the bearings are gone(quite common) if it cuts randomly id say airflow metre. if it sortof breaks down higher up in the revrange as you give it some its the crankangle sensor.rusty inside. if its a hard to start id say the fuel pump.(need a presure guage to comfirm) does it make a graunchy noise when you play with the clutch. it could be the spigot bearing in the crank (heaps loud and shakes everything) or the throw-out bearing for the clutch. (more of a consistant uniform noise) hope that is some help

im pretty sure the stock one is a viscous centre. 31 spline vspec is hydrolic lsd 31spline i think (a-lsd) all 4.11:1 all 6bolt side flange they all bolt up.

it could be the dimmer for the dash lights? is it a switch or a knob?

have you removed the auto spigot bearing thing from the crank? youl need a air chisel(easiest way)

ok. unplug all the big plugs that are behind the battery. the loom goes down to the autobox. the reverse wires are in the big plug (8 or so wires) i think its the green and white wires that you need to hook up to the reverse switch on the manual box.(im not 100% about the wire colour,il find out tonite) the reverse switch is the one closest to the front of the box on the starter side. the inhibiter is the 2 fat wires (2 pin plug behind the batery) join them together. il have to check for the neutral switch(not needed)

so while your crusing at a constant speed the revs drop of completly. like you turned of the ignition?

does your car have a volt guage? what does it sit at? sounds like the battery is abit flat or your alt is not charging properly

its always a pain setting up a fuel system. id personaly go for an external 044 with the stock one as a lift pump to a surge tank. for it to be legal it has to be sealed up(in a box like in two06l in hpi mag.) if you arnt going to drift it or put slicks on it a intank one should be ok. but yes 1/4 tank is needed to avoid surge.

like is it auto or manual.

pull the under tray off. 5bucks says its the waterpump

thats not very good. personaly i think that any piston with 7thou aceptable clearance should be put in the bin. they cant have that clerance. were they mesured 90degrees from the gudon pin? besids excess clerance wears at the bottom of the bore(when the rod is at its greatet angle. if you pull the pistons out and its not all polished at the base of the bore then its a piston ring/machining fault. that wear can hapen by iether detonation or forein mater(most common) im aware that evreyone makes mistakes in the autotrade. is it scratched up in that photo, any verticl grooves. anyway back to the pistons, i use trust ones(os vresion) they specify .05mm(0019thou) most yank ones are around the 3-4thou if they are a cast piston it should have 1.5-2thou generaly. al i can say is they are great. but i had o virtualy watch the block being bored so they were at the corect clerance. try convincing an engine builder whos been puting engines together for 20 years that that is the right clerance!! they always want to make them 3 or 4 thou. id get the block and pistons in question mesured up elsware. to get a more acurate reading. whats the ring gaps like? did it breath heavily? what size is the bore, .5 or 1mm etc oversize? basicly what im saying is that 90% of these problems go back to poor block preperation/piston instalation/cant read a micrometer/had the runs etc. the other 10% is tuning and filtration and oil suply. perhaps your block was water damaged and needed extra honing to remove the rust. ive seen this alot. man picks up "good" block from the wreckers for 100 bucks but doesnt know its been sitting around for a year or so out the back. im not sticking up for acl but this has poor block prep written all over it. maybe they pooped up the piston install. tap tap scratch f**k get me some wet and dry!!! and a new ring compressor. tread lightly legaly. im sure they have more money than you. and getting sued for slander isnt much fun. what if there soliciter has read this thread. anyway i know it sux but get it mesured up corectly and get the specs on the pistons.(clerance range and ring end gaps, ring land clearnce etc) then you will have more solid ground to step on

330rwkw 600cc injectors at 90% in my old motor. oil temp with properly ducted 25row oil cooler still gets up to 115deg from brooklen to berowa. about 5mins flat out.(sock 32gtr) id run a external 044 with a surge tank etc(unless you always have a 1/4 tank) if you are going to do it you may as well do it properly.

i agree. head surface should be skimed. quite a long head will always have some degree of warping in it. sometimes they are ok. but for a 100 bucks its better safe than sorry. tomei oil restrictor. 3m pads (hand ones)should remove the carbon from the pistons with a good solvent) carfuly remove the dowls and with a oil stone rub it down. avoid getting shit all down the oil feed. dont air blow the pistons it will drive the carbon/gasket material further into the rings. use the oil trick(a nice thick one) to remove most of the stuff. hylomar all surfaces. probably a good idea to check the valve guides. both for ware and bits missing. (the head shop can check this for you). about half of the 26 heads ive pulled of have bits of the inlet valve guide mising happy thrashing

sounds good. redline oil heavy(red one) in gearbox and diffs. coils shouldnt be a problem but you may need to gap the plugs down id use a iq22 denso.(7 range in ngk,0.4mm iridum.) fuel pump wont cut it. injectors will be at there max. youl need a much biger oil cooler

thats mad. :lol: i cant wait to get mine together. at what boost is that on?

yeah thats mine. :lol:

fark. dont say that, im about to put my built up engine in. garrett t04z poncam rods etc etc...

depending on what u rev it to. it should make a easy 650hp at the engine with that exhaust housing.(realisticly) sounds like a good solid set-up :lol:

i dont mean to scare you or anything but il tell you what happened to my rb26. it blew the rear turbo on boost and it spat bits of ceramic all through the motor. some how the wheel fragments made there way UP the manifold and destroyed the motor. my engine looked as if somone hat fed it a big handfull of sand. 40thou to clean up the bores. the machine shop confirmed this almost imposible senario. they broke 3 head shaving tools from the ceramic imbedded in the head surface!!! but this is a weird one and yours shouldent of had it go to this extent. id get the bores inspected with a borescope just to be safe but.

ok pull the pump off and remove the rear cover. remove all the vanes that sit in the rear rotor and put it back on. block off the rear fitting. simple fixed. :lol:

i dont see how it would not fit. bieng a tomei part. if not it would have to come with instructions. i hope that your engine is removed from the car. imposible to fit even standard one with the engine in car ie remove sump

fark dude thats an anoying oversight. well i guess that you and everyone that contributed will know your car inside out if you run into dramas again B) i bet your relieved now. you shouldnt have to much trouble selling the gate

yeah. crusing is mad. i usally go for a lap before bed. most of the time its to get out of the house to have a ciggy. then turns into a 2hr old pac thrash and 3/4 of a tank most of the time its a drive to maccas for a small coke and the mega long way home. i never gety sick of it

come in to AUTOBARN chatswood. i work there on the weekends. besides i can show my boss what im taking time of for.

thats interesting. my gtr has the cooler all properly ducted and the splashguard cut away heaps.(25 row serek -10) 85-90 around town gets up to 100-110 quite easily when given a hard time. maybe i should check my oil temp guage? its a nismo mechanical one.