T04GTR

you need to upgrade your ignition system. but i wouldnt go to a 8 unless its a dedicated race car. iether bcpr7ey or s (y = vgrooved centre electrode) bkr7ey or s bke7eix (iridum) pfr7a or b etc (platnum) or in denso. iq22 (best one.) all the normal coper ones should be changed with your oil.

yes flames and a bridgy idle is the shit B)

yes throw it all in the bin and go nuts

edcon steel at brookvale. heaps of sheet. 3mm steel checkerplate would be the go. they can cut it to any size. bieng sheet youl have to get it guilotined. 7 bucks a cut but. tell them dave from envy imports sent you. we get pretty good prices.

cheeres. its lots of fun im having the usual gtr/rb tempremental driving problems. but thrashed it up the old pac and it seems ok now

you dont look much like your picture

hey that was me. i thougt i recognised that car. it sounds good. i didnt know if those buslane camers were speed ones as well.

hmm. i got a manifold of ebay. a xforce one looks pretty god but the runners are to big. i had it ceramic coated on the inside to make it last longer. that turbo sounds like a chinese version of a turbinetics t60-1 t60-1 compwheel p trim rear. the housings are nice but thats it . id try it but check the turbo each week for thrust bearing wear. ps. my ebay manifold with t4 flange had to be modified to suit the garrett t4 size. the bolt pattern is smaller but the gasket /port size is the same for that price who cares :lol:

yes just plug the hose next to the bov. for it to be neater youl have to muck around removing the metal pipe.

thats an interesting idea. i used to work for subaru and we had some mrt cars come in and they seemed to have the same idea. a slightly bigger alloy pipe with the maf sensor in it. also while i was at holden the ss inductions guyes did the same thing to the gen3 engines with their modified afm. they would remove the sensor and bore them out. as a result it would make the engine run leaner across the board.and therefor more power.

ok. ive made some progress. the noise started about half a day after i fitted a hks front pipe. maybe i had the radio cranked the whole time after i put it on so i didnt notice it. but i got rid of the noise. by fitting a cat it had one of those pipes on it(i know its ilegal but does good flames) must of been turbine noise coming through the thin stainless pipe!

yes thats true. it puts the engine into a state where it cycles the a/f ratio from 14-15 to 1 to get the cat converter working across its ful range. with out it it sits at 14.7 to 1 at idle nothing to wory about. it will just smell like new carpet

on a 32 if its a 15yr import it just has a small "vin strip" above or under the factory stamped one on the fire wall. it should read 6u9000hcr23****** if its a turbo. somtimes they get put all over the place. or forgoton to be put on.

140ish is fine. iv seen them range from 110-140(not on the same engine. its also important on the type of tester used. the ones with the long hose give a low reading, the one to use is the push-on type. you should get the bores inspected with a borescope too. generaly 10% variation is acceptable.

thats pretty normal due to the extra volume of air in the system. youl probably find its a much slower flutter noise than before. does it have a factory bov?

yes a 25box is a good idea. the syncros a only a bit more efective but. if u smash the gears with button clutch it will pop. a good one is the 34gtt box. beter syncro design and uses a bigger clutch.(250mm vs 240mm but pull type) to fit it in the tunnel is a bit of an exercise. is ai origonaly an auto? they have a bigger tunel. getting the corect drivline angle is very important.(getting the back of the box high enough) not somthing that id do in my driveway, but much more thrashproof. mx7 gearbox is the same size but has shit syncros and even worse ratios. unless you want to run 3.4:1 diff ratio

if the sensor fittings are loose and not a taper thread try putting a "o"ring on them. so. bung, washer, o ring-block. worked for me without the worry of striping the threads.

yes. il take the front pige of and have a squis with my borescope. eithe way i guess il have 2 hurry up and finish of my othe motor.

i dont have a 2.8 crank,just the standard one. from what i can see the main advantage of a "full counter crank" whether it be forged or billet is you get rid of most of the nasty rb26 destroying harmonics. so that oil pump can take the extra rpm and not explode. even beter is if they come with a nice big damper(ati superdamper etc) the extra 200cc is a nice trade off.

ok. ive checked the rear turbo now and it seems ok. no shaft play, no damage to comp wheel. il just put up with the gtst type induction noise and see what happens

it seemed to work for mercedes on there higher powerd k-jet models:300e-24 etc. they used 2 smaller 910size pumps inline. to get the 80 odd psi and flow. they all had small lift pumps in the tank. so i spose you could do it aswell.

im running trust\grex pistons. at 1.9thou what they recomend. very nice piston. although the rings are really expencive. i had to freshen up my motor due to a turbo blow up. 600bucks for rings. no blow by at all. dead quiet. a friend of mine uses je in his rb31dett 4thou clerance. aparently it brieths quite heavily at 1.8bar. although it does make 520kwatw general rule of thumb is the tighter fitting the piston (forged) the better the materials and the better it will perform,with less blowby

sounds like a tuning problem. is the wolf able to use the factory idle motor? you may need to use a more basic ford type one.

250rwkw should be posible. 17psi or so the afm will hold u back i think. z32 afm is probably a good idea

hi all. this ones got me stumped. i took my car up the old road on friday and now as soon as it heats up the normal woosh noise from the pods changes pitch at about .6bar and over(stock turbos) its hard to explain its sort of like that to4 bearing type whine but a air noise instaid sounds like a roofrack wind whistle noise only faster. you can make it cut in and out by feathering the throttle holding boost at .5-.6bar. its quite loud. its definatly a air noise,whooshy with a low pitched whistle i cheched the front turbo. no shaft play. acualy looks like they have been replaced recently. still has the fluro green paint on one of the blades. havent been able to inspect the rear one yet. due to its flamin mongrely position. it has no air leaks or exhaust leaks. does not seem to have any performance diferance at all(no extra lag or power diff) any feedback would be good. has this happend to anyone after a hard drive? hopfully il not just add this one to the list of "normal" noises.