works 510

Hey, after a reo bar, suit ceffy. either a full one or just the drivers side. Please post how much it is, where its located. Vic perfered but will consider interstate if the pece is right (ie cheap, im on a hell budget) Thanks, Dan

Hey mags, you at calder tonight?

Guys, I have a pair of parkers forsale No cracks, In decent nick, clear with orange "egg" lol Perfect for drift spares (Thats what I had em for, but have too many of them now ) Pics up later on. Just want what I paif for em, $80 pair. Or swap plus cash adjust for a drivers side front guard? Located west Melb, pick up is good or will post at your expense. Pm me if interested Thanks, Dan

Please remove this thread.

Hey guys. Im thinking of buying a dr30 JIC coilover set. Plan on just using the fronts for my 1600 and dont really wanna be stuck with the rears. They have 3stud tops. Sorry for anyone awaiting PM's, been busy with work and other stuff and just havn't had time to go get photos. Cheers.

Need it gone $60 has had some rust repair on the frame. Also comes with a adthree spoiler. COME GRAB IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Cheers, Waz.

Another thing, the oil pump i scabbed out of the hr before it got thrown out was a h4 pump.

indicators sorted, aswell as a bonnet.

Huddy, I more need the housing, glass is still ok and im assuming the non projector ceff lights are similar to the s13 one's that they have different plastic housings...? Nisswreck, I need some prices please

I was asking coupe what cam he had in his motor already, I know for sure l4 NA motors have an offset tab arrangment for the dizzy... same as what goes into the oil pump side of a turbo motor.

Guys, After a drivers side 1/4, park/indicator and non projcector headlight. Possibly a bonnet. Let me know eher you are and how much your after for it. Cheers, Dan

What cam? 72works copy shouldn't have any problem with flattops.... People say you run into problems with 74 but ive run it and it was fine, dialed in spot on with a vernier gear though

Guys, The Rb20 is abit ill, I have a 25det ready for installation. Rb25 will just have a 2535,injector upgrade, intercooler and 3" turbe back exhaust, so not massive power but enough to start wrecking 20 box's. Options are: a rb25 box, most likely a secondhandie from either a wrecker or forum (1k to 1500) or even one straight out of japan. or my Rb20 box or even a sr20 box (with bellhousing change) using a OS giken/jap brand/ppg/whatever 3 gear set. Im sure I would be able to come close to getting a gearset in a rebuilt box for not far off the price of a rb25 box + tailshaft Have a few mates that work for various companys.. Now: If it was you, which would YOU use? Or have you already gone down this path before, if so, explain your reasons. Im trying to figure out a good balance between cost, reliability and availability of a gearbox that will last. Im not sure on how strong a gearset will even be compared to a stock r33 box, anyone care to give me some examples, power and what sort of driving wise? Pritty much asking as a rb20 box is factory fitment,meaning no tailshaft mods or xmember mods, and I already have one to use as a base.. Thanks Dan

Yer bleed valve got the arse today. Played with the actuator adjustment before. Added some pre load its making .9bar, Seems to come on abit harder but still full boost at roughly 5krpm. I brought the car with a r32 gktech intercooler kit included. I may redo the pipes to suit a31 and put that on. If anyone has seen softy/phil's ceffy they'd know how dodgey the evo setup is

Sweet will give it a go. And also its running .7bar now, just off the actuator. Cheers.

Thank for the help guys Ill turn the boost down for now and have a look at the actuator. As for restrictions in the exh, the only one I have is a stock cat (been gutted tho)and funds are minimal at the moment The rest of the system is either brand new (catback was made a few weeks ago) or in good nick. I had a play with the timing last nite, didnt really bring the boost on earlier, but it seemed to gain abit of power Intercooler piping? Its not the best and long, could this make it worse? Sorry for the questions, ive been playing with weber powered nissans all of my life

Supporting mods. gtr or 040 pump, i have to check it 3" exh with GKtech dump and hks front pipe, cat is std for now. evo3 intercooler and home made piping awaiting to install gtr injectors blitz pod Ill get a tune asap

Still stock ecu at the moment.... lack of funds for a re-map

Guys, I have a rb20 running a 2535 running 14psi using a bleedvalve (yes I know, but my elec boost controller died recently...) It makes full boost at 5k rpm any idea's what could be the problem? Surely the 2535 cant be this laggy Yes i did abit fo a search... Cant find any boost leaks, found a few suspect connections and fixed them up, advanced the timing slightly. Any help would be awesome, as its not very drivable Cheers, Dan

Ah I see, My rack had 3 fittings coming out of it :S I wasnt too sure after the search last nite, and had to get it running (its still not going ffs) cracked the shits and pulled everything hicas out of it. all lines came out. hicas block/solendoid whatever it is near the drivers side strut tower and the resivour. In went a s13 sr20 resivour, a ca18 s13 line to the pump, and sr20 s13 line to the resi. Rack is also sr20 s13 what a pain

Guys, Did a search, but still abit baffled, im used to working with non powersteering box's insted of racks..... The ceff is getting a new rack out of a s13, Pulled the old rack out and its a hicas rack, with 3 fittings. the s13 has only 2. Is there a way of fitting it without pulling all the hicas rubbish out? or would just swapping to s13 PS lines and resivoiur be easier and better working? car has a non hicas rear cradle in it and no lines for the rear Any help would be great

heater core? Any idea's guys ?

Dennis, Yes i am aware of that dennis. Im not overly fussed either! Just another small thing they'll add to the list of defects. Its actually 7 and 7.5" in that pic with 185. Cheers, Warren.

Seems i dont know much about turbo spark plug gap . The miss is fixed. Boost cut/fuel cut what ever it is sucks badly. And another rack will be in it shortly. Cheers

Damn thats expensive for r30 rotors . Standard DBA s14 rotors are $105, must just be the intergrated hub. As for wheels, i like them wide, and tyres...I use what ever on them wide wheels so that they fit under 1600 guards. 185/60 on 14x7.5 and 8's