works 510

will bolt into your rear x member yes, but you'll need to mod to suit the cv's Subi diff's are popular with the USA datsun guys, go to their forums and do a search

Slave is the same, cant confirm on the tailshaft though

Hi, Have the following forsale. RB20 dr drift re-mapped ecu, drive to the doc's, pay for dyno time only, to get it working with the mods you have. $190 stock rb20 coilpacks, 6 of em. working fine. upgraded to rb25 and stripped the rb20 down. $70 Rb25 timming covers. Top and bottom sections, also throw in a rb30 lower section. Also have the CAS mount. Top cover and CAS mount painted gold. $80 for the lot. Cheers, Dan

Had another look, couldnt find anything that would affect it. Maybe the wiring under the dash is suss? Its also draining my battery

Apparently its a nismo front lip, If so prob can be brought new from nissan still. Bar is series 2

Ive got a stock series 1 front bar, its abit out of shape tho from being stuffed in the rear seat area of my car. bolts up ok, fitment is average though. Could possibly get a heat gun onto it and fix it. Its also matt black $20

All the earths that I can find are fine, and I tried 4 different bulb holders, including the one from the passenger side. Still nothing

I think its something else. I have the exact same problem, its a short somewhere. turn lights on, only the passenger light gets power, but when you press the brake pedal, both stop lamps works. Demotorvates me to drive it at nite, I get pulled over, car gets defected. Ive changed the bulb holders 3 times, its deff not the plug or them, grabbed a test light to the plug of the body loom, its got power when needed but as soom as you plug the bulb holder loom into the body loom, I lose power. Has to be a short somewhere, no idea where it is, checked everywhere!

Yes, its still alive. Currently looking for a gt30 and injectors for the 25

Pulling it next weekend, will take pics

Guys, I need a new heater core, its not the cold im worried about, just the mass fogging up of the windows on the inside Anything else can be used from other nissan or is it a ceff only thing? Thought I'd ask here before I go to some radiators joints tommorow Cheerio

And sorted. No idea what that "r33" shifter is front then.. For those interesated, Part number for the bush is 32861 01G00 $13.55 inc gst

Yer I know its not a short shifter, but I was having the same problem with the plastic cup not seating properly and ripping the shifter out of the selector. Also need a opinion if its actually a r33 shifter, not something else... The nylon cup thing of that shifter pictured %100 does not fit onto the end of my R32 shifter

Ok I havent got the r32 shifter handy (its bolted into the box and its cold outside, cbf pulling it out) But this is what the r33 shifter looks like. It seems the shaft that the smaller ball and nylon cup is too short for the box. Its a good 10mm shorter than the r32 item. The nylon cup from the r33 shifter also doesnt fit into the r32 shifter. http://img189.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00163y.jpg Can anymore confirm that its the correct shifter?

I also have this problem I have a apparent r33 stock shifter that does the same as what Skydragon is having issues with. Also have a stock r32 and stock s13 shifter available The plastic cap on the end of the "r33" shifter is much larger and doesnt fit into the bottom of the s13 and r32 shifters... I did a r33 box convo and never got a shifter with it

I forgot bout that airbox (your prob did also haha) Still around?

Rack could also be dead, thats what happened to mine

Guys, Need a r33 shifter Anything available? Cheers,

Cheers for the offer man, but its sorted now. Lock and delete thread if needed

Still sorting out some bugs, fixed the overheating but have discovered miss-fire on boost and fuel cut. Gimme a few weeks to sort everything out and im in

Colour choice without a kit, I reckon got for somthing out of the stock colour range. I belive if you do a quick search, all the colour codes will be on this site somewhere. Silver or black gets my vote though

sorry man, sold

Might aswell wack some info up, seeing as its drivable again. Front: old jic's, non damper adjust with 10kg springs, camber tops in neutral posi with s14 Lca's getting me 2.9 deg camber, castor rods (not sure on exact mount of castor), 30mm thick swaybar, s14 rack with lock spacers, last time it had a wheel align, had 2mm+ toe,need another as ive fitted a new rack. Rear: Capital D coilover with 8kg springs, stock camber arms but adj toe arms, alloy cradle bushes, aftermarket rear swaybar(cant remember the diam tho) Unknown rear toe and camber settings as it still needs a decent aligment. Will post exact alignment setting early next week... S14 lca's = more length over the s13/a31 lca. More camber

Guys, After one of these, anyone have one hanging around? Im located in Melb and will pay post, show me what you have Cheers, Dan

As the topic says, Need some info please. search yeilding nothing, and just finishing off the small shitty jobs on the conversion. R33 cable maybe? Cheers, Dan