works 510

Heys, Im chasing a 34 clutch master cylinder. Good working order, cheap and in melbourne would be tops. Picture for reference, its the top one.

hmmm "japanese restoring" Ive see a few old cars, not exactly too crash hot. I compare it to with my old man calls "the mexican restoration" that gets done on a few classic muscle cars haha Rocky Auto cars, you would assume for the price tag that they would be outstanding.. Any reputable datsun mechanic will be able to do any work on it, stew wilkins, baz at datsport etc. As for looking one, If I was looking on spending up for a real GTR, I'd do alot of research on common rust spots, and other flaws, get in contact with some aussie owners for a chat (I think there was a c10 meet-up in sydney recently?) Get some sort of broker or contact in japan to help with price haggling, fly over, inspect some cars

Guys, Thought I'd link this here. I know the guy and its a nice mr30, granted its not a Dr30 or anything but would be a awesome daily. DR30 taillights, lower it with some superlights, enjoy http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=19879 Cheers,

Guys, Need a exh valve. Anyone have any lying around? Or a whole head for parts will do. Im located in Melb. Post with what you have and what you want for it Cheers, Dan

IRS S12 is also 4.1 r180, but CV's.

My vote is 4.1 SR20 box swap involves pulling the sr20 or ca18 bellhousing off the box, getting a L series bellhousing. 1 selector shaft hole in the L series bell needs to be drilled out larger. You need to pull one of the bearings off the sr20/ca18 box and replace it with the one from a L series box as the L series bearing is slightly smaller in diameter (replace bearing while your there) Minor metal needs to be taken out off the L series bell due to one of the gears JUST touching it. For more info, theres a tutorial on ozdat. I did the swap before the tutorial was made, easy as

If memory serves me correctly, there was a blue Ti sedan in adelaide about 5 years ago, powered by a rb30et that was good for a high 11. Car hasnt been seen in awhile

Not 100% though. The actuall rack bolts to the engine xmember, but the flairs on the lines that bolt into the rack. I used a feed line off a ca18 silvia and the return was sr20 s13. Had to tweak the lines abit, its not exactly good looking but it works

Sorry, sold pending payment

Selling a set of these, never got to use them, the prevoius owner had them cleaned not long before he upgraded. I got them, but my motor plans have changed. Asking what I payed for em, $350 delivered anywhere in aus. Or $340 pickup. Located, western burbs, Melb. Pm me if interested. Cheers,

Rev-limiter was going to be set at 7000. Rods and balancer was just a do it once,do it right kind of thing, as no doubt i'll be hunting down more power in the long run. When does the quest for power ever end? Balancer mainly to try keep the N1 pump alive, and my stock one isnt in very good condition. FPR, I have one around here somewhere, its fairly old though and doesnt have a pressure gauge built into it.

I belive its still available

At the moment I'm fairly bored, and my internet is capped so why not put up a build log. It all started with the good ol' RB20DET that came factory in my cefiro, un-tuned with a hks 2535 bolted to it running 12psi, it was good fun. Motor was abit tired, got offered a cheap rb25det, did the conversion. At the same time, the matching 5 speed went in. After sorting out a heap of bugs, and a missfire issue that was sorted by going the AU falcon coilpack route I took it on its first decent run. About 1.5km's from where its stored, it decided to lean out and kill No 6 piston. Yay. Im still not sure how it happened, as the car was under next to no load and I was doing 50kmh in a residential area.. Regardless, here I am now, accumilating bits for the rb25/30 build. At first I was just going to grab a bottom end, re-ring and bearing it, use my old turbo setup, tune and have fun. After reading through this section numerous times, talking to a few people etc, ive decided on a decent build, without killing my bank account. Heres a run down: R33 DET head, modified vct as per "psi"s thread. (this was way easier than I thought) Stocking porting, stock cams, new guides and valve stem seals, mainly due to it really needing guides. I cleaned up the oil returns in the head. Block tapped for new tensioner, both vct and tensior mod done in the garage. Block bored .20 to suit mahle 8.5:1 CR pistons. Restrictors fitted. spool rods, I know nissan stuff is good (dont have a worry with L series nissan rods) but by the time I added up resizing the rods, balancing and rod bolts, a couple hundred more gets spool rods. Crank grubscrewed and machined for collar. N1 oil pump. Haha. I know there has been alot of talk about them recently, Im thinking about either going the gears from JPC or hanging out to see results from the splined oil pump drive idea. Ross Balancer, still need to get one of these. Bearings, unsure of what to use there ACL rb30 metal head gasket. headbolts, unsure again. Might just get some new nissan bolts. Sump is still standard, not sure what to do, a aftermarket ones kill's my bank account. Turbo is a IHI C7, its large, plain bearing and has some sort of weird V-band rear on it. Highmount stainless manifold, trust wastegate. Not a whole lot of info on the IHI, only thing I could find that the RX6 superceeded the C7. Measurements say its inbetween the gt30 and gt35. 480cc jdm s15 injectors, big enough? greddy style inlet, stock throttlebody. (Also have a complete rb26 throttlebody system here thats had injector bungs welded to it running a extra 6 injectors on a rail, no idea on injector size until I get one tested. I was thinking about using the rb26 stuff but have no idea on what to do, loom wise) Ecu: z32 remap Possibly I few other things ive forgotten. Goal: 300rwkw, max reliability. Any other idea's, thoughts or corrections you guys might have are welcome

Just had a look, it isnt the car im thinking of. But its been advertised on nissansilvia.com for awhile

If its the car im thinking of, its a hr30 with fj20 motor. I sold what was left of my hr30 wreck to one of the old melb owners Its abit of a roughy

Same pump was also fitted to z18et and z24 motors, just for informations sake

Last time i head rollmasters are made in india... Originial chain in my l20b was sourced from SWmotorsport and was advised on this chain which was made in japan. Chain has seen 7400rev limit, one mis-change which wiould have spun the old l20b to 8500+. Motor only rebuilt due to oil leaks and because it was getting fitted to another car...WITHOUT replacing the chain because it was fine.

So, ive been following this thread with interest and have a couple of thoughts and idea's. So far limiter bashing has been the main reason for smashed gears in the pump, what if you could back the timming right off before the limiter? One would assume that it will help the cause? Asking this as Im building a rb30 for drift use, I dont plan on holding it on the limiter, but hitting it is something that I cant really control. Cheers,

SOLD, thread can be deleted

Guys, Im aware that SR20 rod bolts are used in rb30e rods, but where do you get them from? I thought I'd found a mob that supplies them in a "kit" (ie: enough of them for 6 pistons) but only received enough bolts for 4 rods. Thanks to "modyourcar" my build is taking even longer. Is there anyone out there with some excess bolts or willing to go halfies in one sr20 rob bolt pack? Or know of any places that sell em in a pack of 6? Thanks for your time Dan

Do you offer a similar service for rb25det or z32 ecu Trent? Looking to trailer my car to you when the motor build is finished

hahah spelling nazi

Good stuff man. I hope my 25/30 fits in the ceffy engine bay, already have a greedy inlet. Any other specs on the motor, cams, turbo wise?

Still available,

up we go