satanic

I've estimated that just to get the gearbox prepared to handle 300rwkw, that alone will be around 10k

I've contacted Motec before; their M800 model does work on the R34, but only if you hook it up in "piggy back" not stand alone. For the outrageous $2.5k+ unit, just seems a little over the top for a piggy back ECU. Never fear though, some new stuff being developed... 1) Bikirom from AUS and 2) Apex'i New Piggy Back ECU Hopefully these will provide the answers, otherwise it's rather limited as to what can happen without getting ripped off! Anyone can throw money to make something work; it's more about finding smart ways around things I think - otherwise woudln't we all just convert to manual?

In a week's time I shall be close to Adam... but it's not as simple as just throwing a cheque book at it. It's quite tricky as not many of the normal items / tricks work!!! ECU is perhaps the biggest problem... there isn't one that does everything!

In about a week's time i will have a R34 RB25 turbo for sale... perfect for high-flowing as it's got a larger housing than the R33s. If not high-flow, the turbo is still in perfect order and goes very hard PM me if you're interested!

I think you should indicate which cover you want... there are two versions as far as I know. Something to do with the writing. When I sold mine, the cover with the Red Turbo Text sold for more

You want a real challenge? Buy a R34 with Auto transmission then try get 300+rwkw Much harder than turning a Manual into the same power

Still got the AVC-R for sale?

Nathan, There is a guy in my area with the exact same setup - only he is near finished If you want I can get you some contact details For starters look at this: http://www.tuned4street.com/index.php?showtopic=4116

LOL my car isn't broken in anyway... it's undergoing a new turbo upgrade hence why there are so many bits and pieces out of it now I guess I could put the stock bits in and drive to the BBQ using the old setup, but that means trying to fit it all in a week before Chris' wedding!

LOL your car still runs without a CV joint... a car won't run without half the engine bay

Work on my car is being done by the master Mitch-eee

OK, the work has begun... YAY! Race against the clock to get it all together for the Sunday BBQ but if we don't make it, it's not that big a deal. Few Questions: 1) The Fuel Pressure Regulator is running at 30psi @ idle and 50psi @ max boost (10psi on stock turbo). We can adjust the FPR but at the moment the car is running fine. Does anyone know what the pressure should be set to? Or is it dependent on the new turbo/power? 2) There is a "Fuel Damper" just before the FPR... kinda looks like another FPR. I want to know if this can/should be removed as it will be a "restriction" to the fuel flow. 3) Bosch 040 in-tank, is there an installation guide for this on the R34? Having some trouble deciding how to mount it onto the stock bracket whilst maintaining the full function of the new pump. Think that is it for now Thanks for any replies that may follow; your help is most appreciated as always! S

LOL; my car is being worked on as we speak... chances are my 34 won't be ready by Sunday (if it is, it'll be fantastic though) Nonetheless, I'm still going... and I will be in a R34 be it mine or some other

Haha, you'll probably spot my car a lot more this week Jackie; handed the keys to Mitch last night

OK, just ordered one of these off my part suppliers . . . Part Number 678 for $130.00, happy happy joy joy! My thoughts are to run the new cooler in series AFTER the stock cooler; keep the lines running through the radiator as well. This way it'll flow like this: Into Radiator > [Warms] > Into Stock Cooler > [Cools] > Into DC Cooler > [COLD] I hope this will work, if anyone disagrees please feel free to correct me. I'm only guessing here based on common sense!

Yes you have to start low.... in my case very very LOW; $5.50 an hour haha! This was when I was 15... How much lower can you get ~

Yes, another vote for Slide's turbos... PM him and explain what you want, he'll tailor the hi-flow to your specific needs (maximizing power, but reducing the lag). Furthermore, you'll be talking to Slide, not some salesperson who doesn't have all the answers! All his turbos come with 1yr warranty provided you install and use them correctly. A handmade turbo that's made to spec for your own vehicle + warranty under $1k, where can you go wrong!

If you were in Sydney; you'd be most welcome to borrow the "s**t wheels" off my R34GTT.... many SAU members owe their regos to them

The technical term for that position is "Office Shit-Kicker" I believe Now that the role has been revealed, I think the salary is correct. At least the DEO actually has to do something and has actual responsibilities!!!

Maybe it's the nature of my company then... one of our DEOs who have literally just finished school is on $37k + Super

Uni websites are shit; our company has found that 75% of the applicants from Uni sites are either: 1) Expecting $50k+ just because they've got a degree or 2) Just got off the plane and are no more than tourists!

Haha, maybe we pay our staff to much here Time to implement "Operation Cost Cutting"

Links; I could take a pay cut you know Like a 70% cut

Oh as for the salary; Office jobs for entry-level start at $17-$18 per hour... which equates to the following: Full Time Salary P.A. - $35.3k to $37.4k + 9% Super - $38.4k to $40.8k Other FBT benefits are all up to you; usually doesn't happen for such income levels; but just a reference.

I'm not a school leaver anymore, but I am thinking about making a career change.... PM me what you got Adam~ Also, we have an entire recruitment database here, I could possibly refer a few people (potentials) to you. But shotgun if it's full sick position