insu

Rear subframe alignment to suite R32 Gtr and Gts4 KCA349. You might want to double check this when you ring them though. -Me

R33 Gtst is a Gts25t. No difference. The 25 in the name just refers to the engine now being a 2.5 litre over the old R32 gtst's 2.0litre.

Pipe goes from turbo to cat. Seperates the wastegate exhaust gases from the normal exhaust gases for a fair bit, =better for power than the all combined units you see getting around. Last times prices were: $395+$15 delivery for the mild steel or $410+$15 for the stainless. I got the stainless. I suggest you contact Batmbl via pm. Check it out: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=74022

You should ask the seller a question and query them as to why the car seems to have amazingly lost 130 000k's...

I have: Batmbl front split dump Metal Cat highflow cat Apexi N1 catback The apexi part has a muffler in it about half way down, the difference I've noticed between this on my car and other R33's with full length exhausts is mine tends to be quiter and idle, and mine also seems to have a lower or deeper burble to it. That all changes once you hit boost though, you get that lovely metalic almost sound of the turbo spooling then the exhuast just starts to get angrier then by the time you hit 'high' boost it sounds like it just wants to take off. I'm very happy with my exhaust combo as you can probably tell.

I use the 8100xcess and found it to be quite good for the price too, (around $58) sometimes with one of those 20% off vouchers for less. What would you say was better or the same for less or the same price?

Yeah I was thinking it was a bit high, but he does say 'approaching' 6k. So yeah, just a thought.

Hey mate don't worry about answering the above posts, I've just seen how much the kits sell for!! I'd rather put one together myself. -Insu http://www.jaycar.com/productView.asp?ID=K...=&SUBCATID= http://www.jaycar.com/productView.asp?ID=K...=&SUBCATID=

Oh and I forgot to ask, where are you located?

Hey man did you solder these up yourself? And I assume you had them running? What car were they in? How well did they work? Are they easy to install? I was looking at getting a SAFCII but all I really want is to clean up the AFR's, so this might be suitable. -Insu

Oh sorry my bad. I didn't look properly, I gave you the oil filter number. Disregard that post!

From memory Z145A

5th gear, approaching 6000rpm. Standard ecu. This would be at speeds right around 180km/h wouldn't it? It might be the 180km/h cut out you're experiencing? Then again, I might be totally wrong... -Insu

Free bump because I like your rims!

My experiences Stock flywheel = Easier to launch at lights. Lightened flywheel (4.8kg) = Little harder to launch at lights, but much nicer to drive everwhere else. Car revs through the range faster, and responds faster on downshifts etc. Hard to explain, but the car just feels more 'happy'. As I said, just my experiences. -Insu

I think by and large, owners of skylines have resolved themselves to the trade off of premium fuel prices and amount of use, with the fact of owning the car itself. Read= If you've bought a skyline, fuel prices aren't your first priority.

AFR = Air Fuel Ratio. There isn't a meter for this in the car. The car monitors Air flow = AFM (Air flow meter) and from this and other factors (tps etc) determines how much fuel to put into each cylinder at various revs/load etc. The car also has a o2 sensor which tells the car essentially if the car is running rich or lean. If you want a proper AFR you'll need to get a wide band AF gauge and probe. Very good tuning tool, lets you know exactly whats going on with your AFR's. You know when you see people getting their car tuned on a Dyno, and they tuner's got a probe sticking in their exhaust? This is what that is. Sounds like your problem is fuel issues, either too much or too little. Generally the more mods you do to a skyline the richer they run. Richer=safer (away from detonation) but also means retarded as far as power use goes, and fuel economy goes down. It could also be fuel starvation= Ie, dying fuel pump, blocked fuel filter etc. This is the most dangerous of all senarios, if this is the case, get it fixed soon.

Some tuners are very protective of their tunes. So much so to the point that they don't want anyone else seeing the tune, so if you want it changed/wiped you'll have to go back to that tuner. The other reason could be, that if the computer was stolen it would be useless to the person unless they paid the $1k+ as stated earlier to have it 'unlocked'.

When's your court date? Does the officer have to be present? Good luck, keep us posted. -Insu

I think I know what you mean lingeringsoul. It seems like the first gear on R33's is really short, often I find myself taking off from the lights putting my foot down and if I have traction I have to change within no time at all, It probably doesn't help that I've got a lightened flywheel as well. But once its through into second, it really pulls from there on. Is this kind of what you mean?

I had the same problem with mine when I hadn't driven it for about a week. There was a clicking when I turned the ignition over but now starter. Turned out the clicking noise is the little arm sorta thing (don't know how else to describe it) that's built into the starter motor that only allows it to turn one way and self locks when not on ing.

I'm seeing a lot of variation here with Justcar. When I got my quote, I did it a few times online, same everything entered into the fields and each time it came back different. I finally got $1800 for full comp for R33 Gts-t for full purchase price when I was 19 (mods: Exhaust, pod, stereo). Now i'm 20 and it dropped to $1,341. I'm pretty happy with that, though they dropped the value of the car by $600. Has anyone noticed that JCI's excess has gone up though? In 2005 it was as follows: $400 Standard + $400 for driver under 22 or, $300 for driver over 22 and under 25 + $700 Due to vehicle and modifications 2006 Now with the car exactly the same: $400 Standard + $600 MALE Drivers 16-21 or, $350 MALE 21-24 (I havent bothered to put in female excess) + $700 due to vehicle So basically my excess has gone up $200 for no reason the pricks. Oh and one more thing, as far as I can see on all my old Renewals and the PDS there is nothing extra to pay if the car is stolen (apart from the $400+600+700). But I did a quote online yesterday for shits and giggles to see what they'd give me with different mods and it came back roughly the same, however attached to the bottom was: Additional Theft Excess: $1000!!!! So that'd be: $400 + $600 + $ 700 + $1000 if your car gets stolen thankyou very much! Thats a $2,700 excess for those who are bad at maths. As far as I can tell however they haven't added this $1000 theft excess onto my insurance policy though? I hope not anyway, its bad enough with the extra $200 on my age. Sorry, End rant. -Insu

In everyone's experience, what would you expect a stock (computer) R33's AFR's to look like with those mods (Ie full exhaust, pod etc) Maybe start off around 13.0 then to 12.0-11.5 at 2400rpm to 4500ish rpm, then maybe to 11.0 or even 10.5 on to 6800rpm etc? That AFR looks to be the flatest i've ever seen come out from a 'stock' cpu'd 33.

58919

300mph = 482kmph And apparently he didn't crash at 300mph, he had already done the 300mph, and crashed at around 280mph~ish when he was doing some extra filming for the segment. Hope he gets better.