R32 TT

Mate. I don't want to cause any trouble.. but had you thought of painting your calipers any other colour other than green? I mean.. pff! Come'on.. green.. ha!

^^^^^ ouch!

..subscribed!

Am looking into getting a 1.5way for the rear of the GT-R.. went to a tight track day here on the weekend and definitely single wheeling.. A couple of mates running Nismo GT Pro diffs, and they are a BIG improvement to their cars.. the only downside to them, is that they are quite aggressive on the street or in the car park.. rear wheels jump and skip like a full locker.. they are set to the minimum pre-load too.. I appeciate you can't always have it both ways, and I am prepared to take the shudders and jutters in order to get the performance, but I wondered if anyone had used either the OS Giken Superlock, or even the Nismo GT Pro "TT" model, which has a less aggressive ramp.. Kind of hoping that one of these still performs hard on the track, but is maybe a little more civil on the street.. Any experiences?

In my research, often the Garrett's come with a 1.2mm restrictor in place. However, there is a 0.8mm restrictor available from Garrett. I didn't check mine before installing, but I believe I have the 1.2mm in place.. I am also getting some oil past the turbo seals... From what I have learned/read/asked - I would be fitting the 0.8mm restrictors from Garrett if i were you.. since they are ball bearing, you only need a good quality oil getting through there to lube them, you don't need the kind of pressure that a journal bearing requires...

OH yeah, one more thing. The HKS exhaust was able to be fitted and hung in place in like 15 minutes.. And the welding and finish on it is really, really good.. just an extra bonus.. but it is definitely better made than 95% of the custom exhausts I have seen because most of it is done robitically I think.

Went through this same dilemma.. Got quotes on some pretty big $ cat-backs.. (already have Garrett -5 turbos and Mines Dumps and Front pipes) Ended up buying a HKS Hi-Power Silent and its perfect for what I wanted. Bit of a lumpy burble idle, not too loud at half throttle so you can actually accelerate alongside a Honda Jazz in everyday traffic and don't sound like you're trying to race him.. (as if..) Then when you get up it - makes a goooood note.. loud enough to be cool, but not "hey you, 3 streets over there - report me! I want you to!" But as usual, as everyone here will say - what's perfect for me might be too quiet for you.. Bear in mind also, that if you have stock turbos, stock dumps and stock front pipes, that will probably also take some meat out of it... so it would be even quieter than what I have..

.........hmmmmm... Put me down for "partial interest" Angus.. ie if you've got 9 and you need the 10th, I could be in. I am sitting on the fence about this because although I understand that rotational mass makes more of a difference than just removing weight, the tailshaft isn't very big in diameter.. And it doesn't do big revs in 1st, 2nd etc.. so I am a bit perplexed as to if it would make a 'noticable difference'.. having said that I read somewhere else that some think it makes quite a lot of diffence. What am I missing? Has anyone here actually put one on and done an A-B comparison? I'd be keen to know.. GTR-STI, have you noticed an actual difference? Giant?

hmmm.. used the stock item on mine - no trouble at all...

Ok well the kit has arrived, so thought I would take a photo of its contents as I would have liked to have seen what was in it before I bought it, so maybe this will help out anyone thinking of buying this kit.. Note the bigger bendy pipe goes all the way to the front turbo, the shorter pipe only goes to the large black convoluted factory tube - which then goes to the Turbo.. (I was hoping the kit replaced this too..) Also in the kit are Silicon tube, hose clamps and brackets which secure the pod filters so they can't move around. Note also this is the D-Jetro version, so it is designed to completed do away with the AFM's. Hope this info is helpful.

umm.. okkk.... (?) Ah, good man, thanks for that - I found the thread and this looks like a good avenue! Yep I definitely don't require a name badge on there. Only mentioning these things because sometimes these tricky bends and tight spots can be a lot of dicking around - which equals time.. which translates to money.. so in some cases the off the shelf HKS part is actually good value. All comes down the the fabricator of course, Kermit sounds like a good guy to meet though. Hmm... Matt Hat Performance eh....? You sure people won't laugh...? Cheers for the replies guys - I'll add pics of the result when I get there.

Well I ordered myself the Apexi Super Suction Kit (D-Jetro) and it has been held up, but a mate has had his arrive and unfortunately it does NOT replace the large rubber convoluted tube (with the big spring inside it) that goes to the rear turbo.. So I now have every hard pipe except for this one.. Looks like the HKS Premium Suction kit does have it, but it is only listed for R33 and R34 GT-R's , here is a picture of it just below the Twin Turbo Pipe... Does anyone know if these kits will also fit an R32 GT-R - or does anyone know what alternatives there are for replacing this pipe other than getting one custom made? HKS kit is about $500... which sucks (no pun) if I only really need this one pipe...

...nice work! ~very~ nice....

haha! Hello there Jamie.. I was just taking a quick look through here and saw [EXPLICIT] and suddenly had to back up. ahhh... saw the Black R35 at the Fabcar do the other night and thought of you. Look forward to seeing it (although the Porka was very sex mate...) ..Dogbox eh.. you'll have to change your name to "paddle shifter" I think, Catchya soon no doubt, Matt.

Hi all, Just wondering if anyone can tell me, have searched and seen pics, but can't be too sure. The Apexi Super Suction D-Jetro obviously removes the AFM's from the equation, does it basically replace piping (stock rubber ones etc) from the Air Filters ALL the way to the turbos? And does it comes with brackets to hold the pod filters in place etc? Also! While I have your attention. I am looking for hard pipes (I think might be HKS) that replace the "Twin Turbo" Pipe. There is nothing wrong with the stock pipe, it just sits too high on the RB30 and can't put the strut brace on.. so looking for something that sits lower.. have seen pics, but searched and searched and can't seem to find it. (probably can't fit this AND the Apexi setup I'll bet) Its either this, or fab it from ground up I guess..

mm.. well I'd have to say that it only 'just' fits in a R32 GTR. And I had to cut the bracing from under the bonnet, and remove the strut brace and I had to remove the cam wheel cover to stop it fouling the bonnet. It seems you can't lower the engine very much as the sump (with the sump adaptor in there) is already pretty close to lower cross member, so not much room to move down - not unless the whole subframe is spaced down? And I don't know if that it such a good idea... Has anyone managed to get a RB26/30 into an GTR (R32) without doing these things?

I'll put $10 bucks and a half empty can of coke on it !

Well I didn't actually have any metal shims in the first place (which is probably half the reason it was sqealing). But yes, I used only the stick by themselves.

I've just had the same problem running DS2500's on stock rotors and calipers. Noisy-Noisy bastards! And I laughed when I read you were pulling the handbrake on because so was I.. I swear it was that loud it could break glass... A mate of mine had a fix! It was a rubber strip with adhesive on one side. More or less just like a sticker that you stick to the back of the pad. I have to admit I was dubious, but it was worth a try. Fixed 95% of it straight up! I've driven for a couple of days with it and mostly there is no squeal at all. The "occasional" squeal here and there, but also no where near as loud as before, and you would expect some noise form those pads at low temps anyway I think.. The bad news? I don't know the name of the product! But he got it from Perth Brake Parts. Its about .5mm or maybe 1mm thick. Looks like black rubber, and you just peel it off its backing like a sticker and stick it to the back of the pad. Hope you can track it down from that?

Just got mine today! Veeeery happy with these. Great quality leather and stitching! Can't wait to get these on the car Cheers Pablo, all very quick delivery/payment and quality. Trader rating left also. ....Nowwww who'll be fastest at the track!!!!!

I'm in too. PM sent and Paid.

Heya Felix, check out half way down the page on this thread: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/52458-rb...-lots-pics.html Its a bit ugly, but this is more or less what I've done too.

Ok, I've got to get in on this because I want to know what you guys think about how all this alters the brake balance front to rear and what you have done about it? ie, you go put a massive set of brakes on the front, and yes - now they don't fade, you always have brakes etc. All good. But do guys check your stopping distances before and after? Or is it just not making that much difference..? Do you have any adjustment to sort this out? Technically, it should be making your stopping distances longer since the rear brake will be proportionally less effective.. so by the time your fronts are at maximum braking force, your rears are only doing 50% of their potential braking... (numbers for example only ...you get what I mean...)

Hi Felix, here are some more pics of mine. Notice that there is a -12 fitting welded to the side of the N1 Pump and pointing in the direction of the A/C Bracket. This then goes to the fitting you see on the side of the sump. The connects up to the pick up inside. I've also put in a pic of the fitting at the back of the head that is the oil return to the sump and a pic of the internals of the sump showing the trap-door arrangement in case any of that helps..

Well it wouldn't be the first time I've heard that.. For instance my last last girlfriend always used to say that they were... er.. oh never mind... wrong forum...