R32 TT

If its for circuit/track then yes. I use one. Probably no good for drags as it doesn't take the longitudinal G into account... only lateral. At least that is my understanding of it. So launching is just the same as stock more or less... only in the twisty bits does it come into play. Haven't had the opportunity to drive with any other though, so can't make back to back comparison I'm afraid.

Yep TT is for track use (so is the normal Pro - that's what I use it for). The difference is the Pro has a 55degree ramp angle and the TT has a 45 degree ramp... the idea I believe is that the TT locks up a little more progressively that the normal pro - and that makes it a little more friendly through corners.. (apparently). If it is not for daily though, the Pro is a very good diff and you'll find it hooks up great. Good luck with it anyway.

I have a GT Pro and have it set on the lowest pre-load setting... its still really aggressive. If you wear semi-slicks it will really bang and crash in the rear end as it loads and unloads.. wearing street rubber, it will still 'chatter' the tyres in tights turns at slow speeds just like a locked diff.. but its not so bad on streets. If it were your daily driven car - it would annoy the b'jesus out of me and is possibly pretty hard on your tyre wear.. If its more Sat/Sun and track days - its a great option. I would investigate the GT Pro TT if I were you - same diff but slightly less aggressive. I haven't tried it so can't say how much less.. The other one I would look at, just from what I have read, the ATS Carbon..

yep - 9.5" wide fit no problems. I run 18"x9.5" with a +13 offset and they are probably right at the limit.. and that's running 265/35's.. but a +17 will be 4mm further in, so should look good and give you that little bit extra guard clearance.

based on that theory then - if you brace it - how much force is required to move it by hand then? You won't budge it... so now you're losing ALL your torque from the flywheel? What I am saying is the motor moves 1" to 2" yes, but then it stops - it happens in an instant - and now all your power is going through the drivetrain.. If you motor 'kept moving' (and spun around and around in the engine bay) then sure, you'd be losing power. Or am I missing something...?

The engine moves what.. an inch and a half? Two? You think this will stop 500hp getting to the wheels?

Merli! Now you're going to have to fork out a little extra for the shaft, I think I should do the right thing and offer you $298.70 for those tension rods you have for sale...! Y'know, to help out. LOL

"....If we had 10, I could ask for a bit more to be shaved off...." Well you've got 12! How about shaving off about $100 bucks and calling it even..

Phwor... good job Merli - that seems pretty damn clear to me! SURELY he can't argue when he's written something as explicit as that! Silly boy he is for saying something like that really - he only has himself to blame.. I'm not even getting a shaft, but if he'd written that to me I'd be quoting it back to him and expecting $1400 and nothing more.. If he hadn't written that?.... I'd probably just be annoyed but pay the extra $100 bucks... Good luck guys..

Cheers mate - you'll have come a say g'day next time so I can start putting Faces to Avatars! I would like to do a custom strut brace to the firewall as well... have you looked at this in any detail? Looks pretty busy back there... If so, have you got anyone in mind to fabricate it?

Yup, I had to cut out some of the bonnet reinforcement to fit over the "twin turbo" pipe as I'm running twin low mounts.. and I can't put the cam wheel front cover on at the moment as that hits too.. and my tower strut brace (cusco) would no longer clear the twin turbo pipe either - so might have to custom fab one up.. haven't tried spacers under the bonnet hinges - can you get away with 10mm though?? Would have thought it would look pretty bad fit... but maybe 5mm is worth a try - still won't help at the front though... Rb30 sucks to fit in a GT-R in my opinion.. Goes alright though..

There's at least a half a second a lap in driving _without_ your pants done up... I had a good time but only sorry I didn't get to meet everyone and put names to faces as I should have. Look forward to doing more though and putting that right, thanks for organising the day Brad ! Matt

Probably just the rears a the moment. I think the fronts are anodised and so to do them properly I'd probably go get them anodised black.. I reckon the paint would come them.. The fronts don't look too bad - its just the rear that look like crap.. Why do you ask?

Some Photos of the rears.. for the record, I'm painting them black... they look shocking - but the rotor material is hopefully good stuff and that's all that matters. Note that the vanes inside the rotors are not slanted in any way they are straight up and down - so even though the boxes are 'labelled' left and right, they're not really. Not like the fronts.. yes the slots run in a particular way for left and right but I really doubt that makes any difference at all so I'd say that purely for cosmetic reasons to keep it consistent with the way the fronts look. Not nearly the same kind of "intake" for the air at the center what with the handbrake hub being in the way like it is.. Notice Richard after your 'toe incident' I was very careful to hold my thumb back in all of the above photos..

Yep, I'll get some and put them up tonight.

Hey guys, just got front and rear Project Mu's for the bus. SCR-Pro for the front, and SCR for the rear (only because you can't get the Pro's for the rear - so not hatted) Just thought I'd throw up some pics for your interest. These are only of the fronts. Note that they are sold as a Left and Right. It will be difficult for you to see in the photos but the vanes inside each rotor follow the same slant (roughly) at the slots on the outside of the rotor. So in the pic below with the two discs show, the left is on the left, right on the right.. Just got standard 296mm fronts at the moment, need to last me until I can afford some big brakes.. but, if these prove to be able to cope with the pads/fluid I'm running, maybe I won't need anything bigger... Sorry - I had to throw the picture of the "Japlish" on the box for humour... Can't wait for my "battle between man and machine"! <drum roll>

Hi mate - I bumped into Rod and the guys down at AHG today and gave $70 bucks to Rod to pass on to you tomorrow mate. Where were you?? Nah, not doing the Autotest - one event per day is plenty for me I think!

Hey guys, just an update on my Nismo GT Pro 1.5way... been in the car a few weeks now and I just changed the oil over to Redline 80-140W Gear oil... has reaaaally smoothed the diff up. Before it used to really clunk and bang and feel like the arse end of the car was going to fall out.. I was going to start dosing the diff with separate friction modifier just to see but instead changed the oil out altogether. Unfortunately I can't say what was in there to begin with - the guy who fitted and setup my diff did not use the Nismo oil it came with and put in 'what he recommended'. But the point is that the choice of oil can and does affect how 'streetable' the diff is. Mine now still skips the outside tyre on the pavement on tight turns, but without all the other crash/bang/fkin-thump from the back.. I reckon if I put a little friction modifier in there now, I could further smooth it up - but as mine is more for track than street - I'm happy where it is. Just enough to show me its still locking, and smooth enough not to piss me off on the street. So just a heads up. If you do get a harsh diff - try oil or friction modifier to smooth it up a bit - it does help.

Payment?? Oh yeah... payment.. How do we do that Brad? Directly to you - or on the day?

Heya Brad, count me in for this one too - be good to meet some members finally!

Count me in on the list if you're making one Brad!

Are we talking metric?

This is interesting! Any idea how much shorter they are? Obviously there is only so far you can lower it before the sump hits the cross-member, particularly once the 10mm 4WD adaptor plate is in there too.. Did you have to cut anything from your bonnet - or nothing at all? And are you running twin low-mounts still?

Are you sure about that Richard? I got quoted one by Greenline.. But I choked and got the Pro because I wasn't sure if the TT was going to be man enough.. I'm pretty sure they are available for the GT-R, and in hindsight, probably what I should have got for a more streetable diff that still hangs on..

Damn it!!! I just bought one of these!!... I should've got the TT huh?... oh well, hard core it is then....