paulr33

it would be interesting to see the TD06 on an rb25 setup......

youve got a spot on response - you cant get much better

well anyway you get the drift - if the CAS is out of whack your timing wont match your power levels most normal gtst's max around 20deg ign timing and make good power and a bit of detonation if you make like 150rwkw and are running 20deg ign timing then your cas is off the planet and dialed backwards (ie 20 isnt 20 its more like 10)

if the cas is bugged your timing would either be in front or behind that is the FC woudl expect your timing to be say 15 and it could either be say 10 or 20 so on max load ramped up you woudl be near 20deg ign timing but cos your CAS is off it coud be say 15 deg so its under and can do with some more timing or its over (say 25deg) and its on the peak of detonating but you should be making more power if that makes sense. basically the ecu and PFC dont know what the CAS is dialed in at so if its out of whack it thinks base timing is 15deg when it could be 12deg or 22deg. it bases its level of timing around that, so if its wrong you will either deontate your asss of at liek 15deg on max load (way too loo) or make f**k all power near 20deg timing (too high) i had a guy email me a few times from some other state he was detonating his ass off and making jack all power and on max load he was near 10deg ign timing its way too low and turns out the CAS he was using was off the planet so at idle PFC assumes 15deg but it was more like 5deg or something stupid

wow thats unexpected , nice work khunjeng (mr cool) you almost have even better response and with internal gate and stock manifold not expected at all - nice work youll notice the td06 has a fatter peak when it ramps up but who has the mysterious td06 setup....

it should be noted if you plan on using the neo 25 powerfc it will not support twin afms your options are; use neo 25 with safc II or neo to split the afm signals and math squish them to a single afm input ECU use rb26 powerfc and run twin afms correctly - but youll need to get it working with all of the neo sensors etc

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/td06 vs 3037.xls

TD06 vs 3037 Both are external gate with suitable manifolds Points awarded to who can guess who (or what) owns the TD06 setup

nice curve, good ramp, nice average power you boost build is ideal at 3300rpm where it ramps to 15psi aggressively (how is traction?) km/h - 3037 - stock turbo ============================= 65 - 40rwkw - 60rwkw 75 - 60rwkw - 90rwkw 90 - 85rwkw - 110rwkw 100 - 150rwkw - 120rwkw 110 - 189rwkw - 135rwkw 120 - 196rwkw - 165rwkw 130 - 225rwkw - 170rwkw 140 - 235rwkw - 180rwkw 160 - 270rwkw - 182rwkw questions; have you got any pics of the manifold? have you got any pics of the turbo flange? what a/r is the compressor? got a pic of the compressor snout?

And... go! Forms has been put up, see links below or page #1 Entry Form - Main Site Entry Form - Mirror Site

you could cut the tension with a knife...

haha check out the vic guys lining up for the forms http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=178680

hi

its the nsw team name beer torque racing

just have a look at SENSOR SW CHECK any sensor with a black background will throw on the engine check light

nope it doesnt even look at the signal you can disconnect it, and it will show as 5.0v in SENSOR CHECK and nothing else will happen you can use the light circuit for your own demise if you wish, something like anti lag indicator or some external relay warning light i thought about using it for my diff lock hack but couldnt be ass'ed in the end

check the part no# on the label, thats your best way to confirm its the correct model

there are reducers from most suppliers (and ebay) or you can get a turbo dcuting kit apexi have a 90mm power intake kit for this exact purpose, but its basically the normal 80mm apexi power intake kit with a 90mm to 80mm reducer

See you all here tomorrow at 4:45 pm - show time

When the forms go up ill add non forum.* mirror

yeah sorry typo on my behalf; GTR 65mm Nismo 65mm (z32 internals inside GTR shell) RB20 80mm RB25 Series 1 80mm - 4 wire - green label (same as RB20) RB25 Series 2 80mm - 3 wire - pink label Z32 80mm (same as RB20/RB25 for the bolt pattern, afm adapter and turbo duct, new plug) Q45 90mm (different bolt pattern, needs new afm adapter and turbo duct or reducer, new plug)

you should speak to them soon, you can get a bad credit rating for 7 years if you muck around and avoid them

the z32 is a direct swap for pipework and adapters but needs a different plug either will also require a stand alone ecu or piggyback to support it (or remap)

the q45 is 90mm the z32 is 90mm both have different plugs and wiring pinouts

I think you guys need to post more