paulr33

for those that wonder why its the same unit; the changes between the series 1 and series 2 RB25 are done on the engine side that is, not on the ecu side, so the difference in coils, tps, afm etc etc are engine side so regardless of ecu used (s1 or s2) its all the same the series 2 coil setup is different, but its changed locally on the engine side so the remote "ecu" side is the same if that makes sense much like the afm setup, they run different airflow meters, but its local wiring on the "engine" side thats changed around, on the ecu side its the same ie: the pinout on the ecu side is the same and so to is the ramp, load, voltage scale etc but there are differences on the map layer for the s1 and s2 ecu's i tried a series 1 remapped ecu on my s2 skyline and it ran like poo it felt like i was driving through mud

im with nismoid, get it checked or get a real ecu and go from there

just get a local k&n filter from your local autobarn, can pick it up tomorrow and saves all the hassles probably works just as good, if not better

a tune makes all the difference, you should get a real ecu or have it tuned in real time on your car, or even better post a dyno plot of how the ecu performs a well setup and tuned gtst with the usual mods (fmic, exhaust, clutch, tune, intake, 12psi) will crank 200rwkw or just under and should be loads of fun on the street ign timing makes all the difference here, my maps are aggresssive as fark and it absoluttely tears it up

there is a guide to work out what size you should be using, you should read it and understand before picking random models i cant remember where the guide / info is sorry

yeah that looks auto box related, the torque follows it perfectly

have seen a bnr34 pfc convertered from ljetro to djetro and (well re-wired) and they guy said it ran like poo (no surprise) as the others have said there is no rb25 djetro. you could modify the 26 djetro to work on the 25 ( has been done before ) or you could try and get what geoff is doing or you could try and find a hks vpc which is a map sensor to afm converter (its discontinued)

smell the ecu and open it up, look for burnt tracks or components i cant see any logical reason it wouldnt work on the FC and would on the stock ecu

etc, version what do you see? etc, sensor sw / check anything highlighted in black? what do you see? is the engine check light (orange) on when you have the problem? have you performed the self idle learn procedure properly ?

haha what a pisser - so long lada dont forget its massive power run at one of the early dyno days we did

mikel, see here http://paulr33.sauvic.com.au/docs/powerfc-...powerfc-faq.htm

hey man hope things are well and you are having fun things in vic are about the same, nothing much changes hey all the breast and have a good one ill say hi to your mrs if we see her at taco's

the engine check light come on (and stay on for the period of the event) if; a standard sensor fails a standard sensor goes out of range (voltage too high, or too low) so if the CAS goes out of range the light will stay on while its out of range so if the water temp sensor goes out of range for 4 seconds it will stay on while its out of range the engine check light will flash if; knocking exceeds 60 fuel injector duty exceeds 98% airflow meter exceeds 5.0v so if its happening during low load it could be a sensor is failing this would be obvious by the light staying "on" SENSOR SW CHECK on the hand controller will show you which sensor is toast or going out of range it will be highlighted in a black background

different

happy bday - all the best see you soon

ill postpone as theres jack all interest, next time we shall too busy playing with their cars before deca - all good

manual will always be better and more fun youll regret it if you buy an auto the manual is much more exciting and gives you more of a driving experience the auto will be slower and runs less boost factory as well the manual will hold more value and probably easier to fix as its more common

more dudes required

fair nuff - good luck i got a bit over 540ks to a tank last time

happy bday champ all the breast

yeah get a breaker bar also jack the car up a tiny bit just enough to get the wheel off the air it will take some pressure of the wheel and nuts so it will be easier to undo

yeah stay away a decent ball beaing turbo is around $1500 usually the manifold is another $1000+ and the wastegate another $500 so if the whole thing is for $700 then expect ...

Last time you guys came down you arrived around 7pm (which is fine). I dont know what traffic is like in central syd around 8am (or the meet time) but you might want to leave earlier. When we came to Syd last year we left melb at 4;30 and we were at wakefield by 3pm and that was spot on. We had time to wind down, relax, sort out the rooms, have a few beers and chill before night time. Just a thought, might be easier (and seem like less of a drive) if you kick off a few hours earlier. That way when lunch time comes around your half way (or more) there so its less impact.

Friday before DECA Who: if you are reading this, you are welcome to come Where: limerick arms hotel - south melbourne What: just some drinks with team SAU When: friday (friday 17th august) night - 7:30pm Time for a few friendly drinks and a weekly wind down (or up) before DECA next week 0404TINT99 if you need anything or just rock up on the night Limerick Arms (03) 9690 0995 364 Clarendon St, South Melbourne

nice nice i thought the engine was orange