paulr33

ah there u go, as dave said i thought it was after

youll need a workshop to drill a bung into the exhaust dump pipe, much like the 02 sensor theres no factory hole for an EGT, theres one on the CAT but if you are getting a guage i would expect you would want it off the dump pipe

if your referring to the exhaust side youll need to drop the exhaust off at the dump pipe / front pipe area and look from there its natural for some trace amounts of oil to be there (visual) but it shouldnt be dripping / fresh

spy++ FOX INACOMA Jetpilot

undo some of your cooler pipework and look for oil in the pipes if you see a bit, wipe it away then run the car again if it comes back quickly then youve probably shagged the turbo oil seal or it could be leaking on the exhaust side, which is whats making it smoke, as you have raw oil leaking into the exhaust housing

the commo engine would blow any inline 6 turbo for sure man heck if you can throw in a vb commo engine instead, heaps more torque and it came with a factory VAC guage

does he happen to have a trailer out the front? if he does flog it. we did that to some neighbours in our street, and we walked it into the local creek one sat night when we were drinking back in our 'teens days. was funny as

its a joke

is this a joke? why would u swap a jap engineered twin cam twin turbo efi powerhouse for a 1970 buick engine ?

haha nice man. i rememebr the night i got mine back, it was ace. enjoy

sounds like fun good luck, wet skid pan = no traction it rained at one of the deca's we had during the day, it was just nuts bag, wheelspin city

that sucks penis ash, sorry to hear, let us know if you need some dorras to get you by its funny tho, if something like this happens they say 3-4 weeks, but if you owe them $20 they take it instantly and dont wait and give you lots of late fee's etc, but when its the other way around, 3-4 weeks is acceptable, pricks

yeah afm surging is a known issue when the afm is close to such a large compressor inlet put a bend in the pipe work between the afm and the compressor inlet, that should sort it out or make long and a bend

ok you are set in your ways so i will stop caring and offering advice at this point but dont buy a blitz or a mines ecu, they are pointless as there are no mines or blitz tuners in australia so you may as well stick with the stock ecu and just be done with it. get a locally supported ecu and get someone to tune it correctly every man and his dog has a powerfc because they are the easiest, cheapest, quickest, well supported and best bang per buck ecu sure motec is great but for 3 grand why would when you get the majority of the crap you need for 1k instead if you are looking at a stand alone ecu look at; apexi powerfc greddy emanage (remap piggyback) link ecu wold 3d autronic motec hks fcon but as you will know none of those come cheap, as they are standalone systems and if you do go for some exotic ecu find out how much for tune and how many workshops can support it if only one workshop in aus supports it then whats the point, its gonna cost you 10 billion $ for a tune

anyway you have enough info to make an informed decision if you have a local remapper guy and he is ok with doing injectors and afm go for it it will be much better than the safc comprimise

if you go for 260rwkw with injectors, afm etc and you do actually get it working properly (good luck) you will spend ages mucking around, the tuner will get angry and take longer (cost $$$) and youll end up with a big comprisemise and you have to tippy-toe around deontation cos the piggyback dials in more timing automatically (part of the nature of bending the afm signal) by all means do it and save $1000 etc but another guy with 220rwkw and a good tune on a real ecu will smash you in all of the usual comparisons, average power, ramp up power, boost build, lag, response, ability to smoke tyres etc the tune is the biggest thing here, get that right, and the car should be the best, regardless if you use 480cc or 520cc or 11psi or 13.34psi etc etc...

you dont judge if a powerfc is justifiable or not by rear wheel killowats its judged on user ability, car response once tuned and how it performs over all ive got a powerfc at 190rwkw and its the best thing ive done to the car of all of my mods i couldnt recommand a stand alone ecu (setuip correctly) high enough out of all the mods anyone would do to a skyline sure if powerfc isnt your thing, then go greddy or remap or motec or autronic or link or SOMETHING etc etc the point is, get a real ecu or remap the bastard and the car becomes a new car once all the load points are tuned (regardless of ECU) the car should drive like a different car thats what you pay the $1000 for. for the amazing throttle resspone, for the good economy, for the rapid boost build and torque when u need it forget about rear wheel killowats

trust split dumps are they key but not cheap

i dont believe the standard gate should leak or bleed automatically the actuator is std setup is always live, that is, it always see's boost pressure and only opens or starts to open at 750mhg the auto co-incedently opens at 550mmhg so 7/5psi accordingly. the gate shouldnt open at 5psi on the manual even the nissan service manual states for poor performance to check the actuator and use a pressure guatge to make sure it doesnt open until 750mmhg (ish). the duty helps the controller maintain stable boost once target is reached. the duty is a ratio of opened to closed in a cycle. so if the duty is say 80 then its 80 cycles closed, 20 cycles open. if that makes sense (in a simple way). this stops a big boost hit and the dump, it helps maintain stable control. most ebc's can do this correctly, specially on a std turbo setup

yeah full boost by 130km/h is terrible dude try unplugging the wastegate signal line and try it on the street if it ramps to 1 bar instantly or within say 2 secondw then your controller is stupid/broken if its the same, then your gate is leaking, its always open or opening prematurely for no reason if you do unplug the vac line, which you can do yourself, BE CAREFUL when you load it up in a gear, watch your BOOST GUAGE dont let it ramp to 1 bar for a long time, a quick spike is OK but dont leave it like that and trash around on my car in say 2nd 3rd or 4th on the street i can build 0.85 bar in about 2 seconds at the most if i nail the throttle the needle on the stock guage should rise fairly quickly to your target, 2-3 seconds at the most. it shouldnt take like 10 seconds progressively to rise

i agree with wayne, if you are interested in joining the official sau vic club then check out the website and signup form there are a fair chunk of events, specials, discounts etc that are offered to sau vic members only and posted in the vic member section only, that you can't see

its the standard ecu protection, youll need a piggyback, ecu change or remap to work around it do a search for r&r protection or boost cut or fuel cut anyone of those terms will lead you to the same result that its the stock ecu protection itself from too much airflow

i disagree if the controller is doing what the tuner says and staying closed until target boost is reached then you should have the best build curve possible it should ramp to your target boost well before 3 grand on the stock turbo. if its not something is wrong, possible include; leaking wastegate busted actuator - or its pre-opening a touch boost leak engine tune is crap having the controller keep the wastegate closed until target boost is reached is the same as having it disconnected, and running unlimited boost youll have the best boost curve possible. maybe sort that out first, then try the controller. that is unplug the wastegate line and see what the curve on the dyno looks like. if its the same then your gate is leaking or its preloaded / opening early. if it ramps to like 1 bar at 3 grand then its spot on, be careful you dont go over 1 bar youll go bang focus on fixing the gate issue, then youll find the controller works awesome

yeah ash is right, not long, just gotta do them 1 by 1 and make sure you park hard up against the person next to you when i did those ones i think it took just over 30 minutes to get them all parked like that, not too bad, worth it the locals get pretty confused when they see a big train like that

useless, closed