R33NT

This is what the one from APC looks like. The difference is that this looks like it is meant to be there and it is apparently identical to the GREDDY manifold but takes the standard injectors (not standard throttle body).

JETSPEED was what i was after. Thanks Primordial

Hi All there is a company in sydney that makes drift wings and full body kits for a range of cars (including skylines). I have TOTALLY forgotten the name of the company and since i want to get a low profile drift wing on my R33 GTS25t i need the name of the company. If anyone can remind me it would be greatly appreciated Cheers

I checked out ISL-33P and his profile says a custom plenum (exchange) costs $1000 where the one i am talking about costs $700ish (from memory).

True but i am told the Greddy item doesnt take the standard injectors.

I went to APC the other day and i saw a RB25DE plenum which looked very similar to the greddy item. It apparently uses the standard injectors and a Q45 throttle body but is a cheap casting job. Has anyone actually had one of these fitted with good results? I ask because i have a crappy cut and shut with a front feeding (like GTR) inlet and i would like to replace it with this one if it is any good. I believe they said it costs around $700ish.

I have a cut and shut plenum identical to the one on the VL that i am looking at selling because i can get a greddy for $900 (brand new). I have been told that the cut and shut is fine as long as you use a standard turbo and dont run more than 1 bar. The problem is that if you exceed that it will starve some of the cylinders. If you where going to do a cut and shut you should probably cut a wedge out of the plenum starting at the front and increasing towards the back (then weld it up afterwards) so that your plenum tapers of towards the back. Then flow bench it and move the throttle body to the front and by then you could have just dont it properly and bought a greddy plenum (probably for the same amount of money)!!!

nuffin_werks have a read of my first post.. There is no doubt as to the fact that he thrashed the car because of the detonation read by my power FC and the speed (129kph) was very illegal for an 80kph zone he was in (again read by my powerFC and they admitted to this). And to top it of i had been assured by the manager 10minutes before hand that the young test pilot was "OK". ALSO it wasnt a mechanical workshop it was a tyre workshop, i was only having some front tyres fitted. If it had been mechanical i would have been at cheethams. BTW Goon its spelt Stagea.

I can accept a short 2km test drive while treating the car nicely and adhering to the speed limit. BUT thrashing a car just for the hell of it is not acceptable.

Sounds like a plan. My problem was that the guy that was supposed to have taken it for a drive (the normal guy) was on holidays. But that doesnt matter anymore because from now on if any workshop even hints at taking my car for a test drive i will tell them to severely F@#K @FF and if i come back and find one more kay on it than when i dropped it of i will take them to court. It sickens me that you cant trust a workshop to look after your car anymore.

I dropped my car of to have a new set of Yokohamas fitted (at a tyre fitting shop) at 11am today. I was there when the "Test Pilot" from the shop returned from test driving it. When i checked my PowerFC hand controller it showed he had been doing 129kph and it had been knocking 70 (anything above 60 is going to destroy the motor). I should also mention he was only gone for 5 to 10 minutes so he would have barely made it to the 100kph zone on Tiger Brennan. After confronting the manager he talked to the "Test Pilot" who admitted he had seen 135kph on the speedo while he was test driving it. It was middle of the day and he takes my TURBO skyline out and thrashes it, it was set to 15pounds at the time he took it for a test drive. I dont even give it heaps during the middle of the day. Is there anywhere you can get a set of tyres fitted here in darwin without having to worry about some young punk THRASHING your car???

The world has come to an end, the only V8 Skyline i have heard of is up for sale. http://carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!cs_co...rch_distance=25

Who is getting the RB26DETT fitted to a GTS25t? BTW it is pointless trying to start a club because the population density in darwin is just not there.

I have posted this before but here goes again. I had a standard GTS25t diff rebuilt by UAS a couple of years ago, it is a clutch pack LSD, it locks as soon as you put the boot in. As the rest of you have experienced when you do a tight turning circle and apply throttle one of the wheels skips and mine still does that after a couple of years of use. It is the best investment i have made in my car, it saves on tyres like nothing else and through corners you can apply liberal amounts of throttle without ending up completely sideways coming out of the corner. In the wet it is magic as i was always spinning the wheels as soon as i came on boost before, now i have to floor it to spin the wheels. I always got the impression that a mechanical diff is one of the worst things to use on a street car because it gives 100% lock when you apply the throttle whereas a clutchpack will still allow some slip (useful when you are cornering under power). http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/priceli...ylineclutch.htm http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/priceli...rts/r33diff.jpg

As i said i would have preferred a plumb back BOV that would have cost a bit more, so i dont have to listen to the SSQV every time i change gears. Everytime i go for a drive every looser with a lancer or a commodore thinks i am racing them when i take of normally at a set of lights, this is annoying as i would severely beat them if i was racing and i hear every now and again that a lancer had me pinned in a race several weeks back etc, that is just a joke. A plumb back would make much less noise, the only reason i went for the SSQV was because it was cheap.

I know it was leaking back then because the valve when it closed didnt seat properly. After pulling it apart and sorting it out it looks like it seals alright now (poor build quality). What i meant wasnt that the leaking causes poor idle. When you come off the throttle from high rev the valve vents. Case1 when it vents back into the intake (after the MAF and before the turbo) the computer knows that air has been vented back into the system and it doesnt measure it. The computer is setup for this type of plumb back operation, even the PowerFC expects it. Case2 when it vents to free air the computer is still expecting the air to be in the system (ala plumb back) so therefore all of a sudden (as the engine is falling back to idle) the air is not there but it still puts the amount of fuel in that it would for the plumb back system and the idle will drop below set idle sometimes stalling the motor. I personally wish i had just bought a HKS SSQV or a proper plumb back blow off valve because the mounting flange for the cheap SSQV wont fit a normal plumb back blow off valve AND with the plumb back my car (i have a PowerFC) would run much better.

I have the autotechnica valve, i thought it was sh!t i would like to get hold of another valve ASAP because it was leaking when i got it due to the fact that the internals where not sealing properly and it is probably still leaking. I understand it is a straigth hks ssqv. You should make it vent back into the intake after the MAF sensor and before the turbo otherwise your car wont idle very well and it may stall after you come off the throttle from high revs. This is because the ecu is counting on the air that is vented to be fed back into the intake.

I had my GTS25t viscous diff done by UAS for $1200 a year or two ago. Before i had it done i would spin the wheels in the wet constantly and when accelarating through corners it would spin one wheel followed by the other and then heaps of sideways action. Now i have to do nasty stuff to get the wheels to spin and through corners i can hold the throttle nearly flat without going sideways. Going up a gutter where one wheel is left hanging and the other planted it pulls up without ANY wheel spin. Even after a year or two (i forget how long i have had it) it will still skip the wheels ie lock up when you are turning and you apply some throttle. As far as i know it is a GTS25t diff housing with GTR internals and a clutch pack, call John Penlington and ask him since cant remember the story. http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/priceli...rts/r33diff.jpg http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/priceli...ylineclutch.htm

35degreeC ambient i guess. I didnt stay at that speed too long because i was worried about pinging. One amusing thing i did find was that the plastic that sits inside the front guard (towards the front bumper) was pushed against my tyre and my tyre melted a hole in it!

Like Lepperfish said doing it on the cheap will cost you more in the end. When i do get around to getting a rebuild i will be going with JHH because i want a strong well built motor.

I have had my stock RB25DET (got a power FC) wrap the speedo needle around to zero ie from zero past 100, past 180 and then onwards to zero and i was still accelarating (got to around 230km/hr i guess). The only problem was that it was sitting on max boost (and around 7000rpm from memory), else the car felt fantastic roaring down the stuart hwy at that speed.

I checked out doing a rebuild with an RB30 bottom end (i supply the RB25) a while ago and was quoted about $8k, this was with a full port job, forged pistons and shot peened rods from JHH Engineering in queensland. I cant remember the horsepower i was quoted but they where confident of an easy 250rwkw and i think he said the limiting factor on the motor they would build was the turbo and the fuel. But with an RB30 bottom end they reckoned you wont be blown away by the horse power its the sheer torque that will plant you. Also i got the feeling that they have built a large number of these motors and they have a good reputation.

If you are talking about a grounding strap just go to your local electrical switchboard manufacturer and get a braided strap. Get them to crimp a pair of lugs on either end then earth your motor to the chassis, 5 second job. Coincidentally is this supposed to improve your spark or something?

read the latest zoom magazine (no 78), they have a twin turbo special where they discuss the pros and cons of these systems.

http://www.gcg.com.au/catalogue/Turbos%20-...ring.html#gts-t The prices are out of date on their website.