R33NT

Why dont you just get your excisting turbo high flowed by GCG and get a rising rate regulator. It would solve your injector problem and it will bolt straight up. I was looking at doing this and it seems the cheapest at about $2k (ish).

Read about pfitzner or something like it in one of the HPI mags. Just checked out their website and they say they will cut gears to you spec. I dont know how cost effective it will be but it couldnt hurt to call them. I seem to remember them offering a full gear set for GTRs and they said that most people are willing to break several gear boxes before they final see the advantage in buying a dog box. http://www.gearbox-racing.com/

So the motor blew up 12months after doing this, the brakes, diff and gearbox are smaller? The brakes being smaller means it cant stop the additional speed you can pull with the turbo and the diff and gearbox are weaker so it cant handle the additional power from the turbo? No offence but i cant see why you wouldnt ditch the atmo VL and buy a turbo VL. It would be heaps cheaper way of getting a turbo (in the long run) and it would last longer than an atmo with a turbo bolted onto it.

huh?? Sydneykid are you also hemi??? My mate got one into his VL without a problem.

Just as i said!!!!!!!!!

Dreg01 can you tell me if there is a difference in the size of the Diff, Brakes, Radiator and Gearbox going from a non turbo to a turbo VL? I personally dont go much for the old VL so i dont know the specifics. I know numerous people have tried to get a cheap GTS25t by bolting RB25DET into a GTS ending up with tiny brakes and other things inedaquately sized to handle the additional power/speed from the turbo. It is a common problem when youngsters bolt a high power jap engine into an old wreck here in oz. Anyway hemi just do what one of my mates did. By a cheap 1JZGTE front cut, weld up some engine mounts and swap it all over. It goes like a shower of sht and because the engine mounts are apparently identical to the 1UZFE (toyota quad cam V8) you could alway fit one of those to amuse yourself at a later stage. Que all the cry babies that reckon swear by the nissan motor

FYI guys i live in the NT, i am running a stock turbo at 13psi and half my driving life revolves around watching my pfc hand controller to make sure that it is not pinging. Also heat soak is a major problem, in the evening when i head home i wait until the engine temp is up before i allow positive inlet pressure. If i park the car after that drive for say 10 to 20mins then take it for another drive it will lightly ping the whole time because the engine has heat soaked.

xRHETTx remember back to when you where a kid and you jumped out of the pool when a breeze was blowing. You felt really cold didnt you. Its called evaporative cooling. Theoretically with enough windspeed over a wet surface the water molecules will evaporate ie change state from liquid to vapour and in doing so absorb energy in the form of heat (from the surface it is in contact with) cooling the surface below ambient. That is the theory but in reality you dont have a snow flakes chance in hell of bringing the intake temp below ambient without something like an air con system cooling the intake and even then getting enough heat transfer would be a problem. This system would suffer from the same problem as the water to air intercooler, that being you still have to pump the cooling media around the system adding weight to your car and using energy (robbing power) to do it. I believe that you can do several things to reduce you inlet temperature 1) Pick a turbo which is efficient at your chosen boost / air through put. 2) Make sure your ram pod is drawing air from a cool location (not from under the bloody bonnet). 3) Put some vents near the firewall in your bonnet facing the firewall. This will remove heat from the engine bay and stop heat soak (massive problem of mine up here in the NT) 4) HPC coat (i know that is a tautology if anyone is being picky) your intercooler piping to stop them from heat soaking, it is debatable if this has any effect but some people swear by coating the pipes (bonnet vents are more useful in my opinion). 5) Ask ARE what they think is the best intercooler for you application and go with it. 6) This step goes back to the evaporative cooling above. Simply put a water spray system with a VERY fine nozzle (check autospeed i remember an article about doing) after the intercooler and before the inlet manifold. This will basically spray very fine water into the air rushing past and in doing so due to the finely misted water being sprayed into a hot air stream it will evaporate and when the change of state occurs it will draw heat from the air dropping your intake temperature. CAN ANYONE TELL ME IF THE INCREASE IN HUMIDITY LEVEL HAS A NEGATIVE EFFECT ON THE ENGINE/TUNING/ETC? 7) This one i read about on autospeed as well. Some company several years ago made a spacer plate from some insulation which goes between you inlet plenum and the head. This will theoretically reduce the temperature of the last point of contact for you air charge before entering the engine. Again it is debatable if it makes 3/5ths of fck all difference. 8) Last of course is the intercooler water spray relying on evaporative cooling the intercooler but in this case your car would have to be psychic to know when to start spraying. I liked an article in autospeed where julian edgar started the intercooler spray dependant on the rate if change of the voltage from the throttle position sensor. ie if you are racing you are obviously ramming the throttle to the floor as fast as possible to accelerate fast and the rate of change with respect to time of the accelerator is high hence it would start the spray so your intercooler is sprayed ready for you next gear change. NOTE I DID NOT READ EACH POSTING IN THIS THREAD SO NO ONE GET UPSET IF I HAVE REHASHED THEIR IDEA

if your VL wasnt a turbo to start with dont bother doing this. My mate had one and he said the differences where massive between the turbo and atmo VL. For instance on the auto the stall was set at a different rpm. I would be very surprised if the atmo didnt have smaller brakes and the atmo also has a higher compression ratio making it bad to turbo. Bad Idea.

Unfortunately i wont be the first to do this as a bloke in QLD has already done this...... He is one of Struttos mates and there is a thread about his conversion. I cant see why it wouldnt be street legal because 1) The VH45 is supposedly lighter than the RB25 2) Due to the multiplier for turbos the VH45 is on par with the RB25 when it comes to rego and insurance. 3) I plan to use an auto box ie insurance company can see it is meant as a cruiser not a street racer. 4) I havent heard MVR in the NT knocking back to many conversions. I did hear that one bloke who wanted to stick a 429ci V8 into a mini didnt get approval but that is to be expected.

Obsydian i actually tried the Nissan consult at the nissan dealer last time i had a problem so i have seen it. Nice touch screen bit of gear. But since then i got a PowerFC.

Obsydian this is just sounding too tempting. Does the auto computer control the rate at which the gears shift aswell?? What does the consult port output simple RS232 hex or is it RS485 or even CAN??? h8t_copsr32 what i am about to say comes only from talking with people, no experience. You can buy a VH45DE in a front cut and the most expensive front cut i have found so far was a 94 model which costs $2800 There are some photos on this forum which strutto pointed me towards which show the VH45DE sitting in an R33. I wouldnt think you would change flywheel because the VH45DE only comes with an auto and from what i have heard it would be a nightmare and massively expensive to get a manual box that could handle the VH45 and also an adaptor plate to be able to bolt the box behind it.

Damnit Obsydian stop telling me that i can control the shifting of the gearbox. I have a couple of degrees one if which involves electronics and the other programming so for me to build a circuit to control the gear box and give me push button gear changes is nothing more exciting than getting out of bed in the morning. Hmmmmmmm paddle shift in a V8 R33...............Now if that included the 5 speed auto from the VK45DE i would get way too excited. I would recommend you to PM Strutto and have a look at the photos of his mates V8 Skyline. Nice.........

With regard to the gearbox slurring shifts if cruising and snapping if racing does that mean it will switch between comfy mode and sport mode based on load / feedback from ECU / driving style? Is the Silfnity.wmv and associated pictures your car? I talked to Castlemain Rod Shop and they said that the only thing that could handle the engine for power and torque was a ford tremec gearbox and they could sell me one with adaptor plate (which had to be made in their workshop) for about $5K to $6K. Note he didnt quote me he just said somewhere around that. You said there are significant differences in the VH45DE from early to late 90s, what are the biggest differences? The big question is how does your car handle through corners etc after getting the VH45DE in? eg does it understeer earlier? Are you thinking of doing up some extractors for this one at some stage or are you going to go with the stock config?

OK so much for the VH45DE. Has anyone looked at the VK45DE it has heaps more torque and a 5speed auto. I think i might shelve my plan for a while until the VK45DE along with its gear box becomes available at a REASONABLE price. Read the following for review http://infiniti.jbroadtests.com/M/2003/index3.php

So what is the VH45DE like. What is the weight of the VH45DE? Is it heavier than the SR20DET/CA18DET that would have been in the S13? If anyone knows i would like to know an exact weight comparison between RB25DET and the VH45DE. What rear wheel kw and Nm did you get? Did you freshen the motor? Did you reco the gearbox? Is the Gearbox a bit sluggish when it shifts (came out of a luxury car so i would expect that)? Are you running an aftermarket ECU? Did you have problems with the auto box computer? etc As you can see i have lots of questions i just havent found anyone who actually owns one of these yet. Before everybody starts to try and buy parts of my car, I should explain that this is something i am looking at doing and i wont consider pulling my GTS25t apart before i have a VH45DE (which i dont) and i have enough information to do it (which i dont). Motor Vehicle Registry and Insurance has to be checked before i seriously entertain this conversion (which i havent).

who said anything about Vic As far as i have been told someone has a VH41 in an S13 in perth and it is still not on the because the tail shaft among other things is not completed????????

red17 you are right i forgot to correct the fact that i had been told it was a VH41 in the S13 That datto looks NICE. Much better than the guy that bolted the Gen3 in (black i think). I have been told Castlemaine Rod Shop was supposed to be working on an adaptor plate. I will call up and check this on monday.

I would think so. He said it wasnt him that had done that S13 but they where working on another car which was going to use the VH45DE

just talked to him, he seems very clued up on the nissan VH45DE. BTW the S13 runs an auto box.

KamikazeR33 who is SST? Do you have a phone number? redline2003 (tongue in cheek when i say this) for even suggesting a gen3 motor you should delete that post. Of all the things an overhead valve truck motor in a "performance" car...... That is a joke. Still on redline2003. I wouldnt stick this motor in an NA shell, the brakes are too small and yes NISSAN ALL THE WAY. I have been hunting around for some way of getting a manual behind the VH45DE but the only way i can see i can get a V8 in my skyline and keep it manual is to use a 1uzfe (toyota 4L V8) which i am not really interested in at all. But as i have said previously i would probably stick with an auto (just wish they had a 5sp auto). I have checked a few wreckers and they want arounf $2800 for a 1994 Ifinity half cut. I couldnt get a turbo high flowed and a my RB25 bolted together with an RB30 for that plus fitting. Ontop of that the VH45DE is an incredibly tough motor. I am told by a mate it has 6bolt mains and the crank is drop forged.

What gearbox did they use in the S13?? I checked with Dellow and they do not do an adaptor plate for the RB25 box. I would probably go for the auto box anyway since i am tired of shifting gears all day every day. Its alright when you are racing to have a manual but for getting through traffic auto is the way to go and with 4.5ltr V8 in a R33 it would be relaxing.

Damn . Soo much for being original. Hmmm wonder how much i can flog my RB25DET, Power FC, Cut and shut Plenum, Stainless intercooler plumbing, ARE intercooler (600x300x75), 3.5inch dump of turbo for and how much a 2002 VH45DE, Autronic, full exhaust and fitting will cost. If there are only mm spare when fitting a VH45DE would a VH41DE fit more easily. Not that i am a V8 head but i would love to hear what that guy from QLDs skyline sounds like. http://www.freshalloy.com/site/features/te...ines/home.shtml

Is there anyone that has tried or even considered sticking a VH45DE in an R33 GTS25t? I was curious if it would even fit between the towers. See the article below for short writeup on the VH45DE (208kW, 400Nm) http://www.autospeed.co.nz/cms/article.html?&A=0206 http://www.jpcar.net/modele.htm

I have a Jasma stainless 3inch with two mufflers in series so it is not a massively loud exhaust. The problem with running 10psi was that the standard intercooler was GLOWING hot after a short gentle drive and no i was unfortunately only running premium unleaded (i think it is 96RON). We have only just recently had a couple of bowsers start selling BP ultima (98RON) here in Darwin ($1.15/litre). I read in the latest HPI magazine today that the RB25DET has gotten a bad name because it has a higher compression ratio than the RB20DET and as such if you get the tuning wrong it pings badly and damages the motor hence the RB20DET is a more "forgiving" motor. As a result there are a lot of damaged motors out there, from having read this Vendetta i would seriously wait with plugging that pfc ECU in until you can borrow the hand controller from Steve. Rather a couple of days of a standard ECU than 2 weeks at the mechanic and the cost of rebuilding the motor.