Fastrotor

Cmon Dave, don't tease, whats happening Gary

Updates ABM ????? Man i'm in love with that head work !! What did all the nissan stuff cost you ? Gary

I've got wood ! That second vid sounds awesome too.!! What exhaust you running ? God i can't wait till i get my new setup going.... miss doing the sprints and kahna's Gary

yeha ! Nice Dave..... car sounds nice Gary

nice gain for sure Lith. Don't suppose they had a boost curve for you ? Gary

I did this on an rb20 nics 9 years ago , i modified the stock ecu myself to alter fuel and timing . ended up with 160rwkw on 11 psi odd. It was a fun car, i know it sounds pitifully low power these days , but it was on very low boost and just street tuned by me. We only found out the power at a dyno day after i sold it ...... to give an idea a twin turbo boosted supra made 210 rwkw on the day on that dyno. I just had a flange plate made to suit the s4 , got it professionally welded onto the rb20 manifold, then went nuts with the die grinder smoothing it all out. Gary

What exhaust manifold did you swap from and too fineline ? Gary

Does he run filters on the street ?? If so ....how ? (i assume those really short K&N ones ....) mainly the rear turbo, looks like its pretty tight in there ! Well done though... when does he take it out to the drags ? Gary

Make sure you have boost cut enabled then to cover your ass. ! Gary

Oh, yeah , forgot you were going to plumb it the opposite the normal way.... but then again if your going to use open loop and have full control of the duty, why not just plumb it normal and start with 100% duty (when over idle revs say, to stop solenoid getting hot if idling) That way you get same results, just an added saftey margin if the solenoid or wiring etc fails. Are you using ext gate titan or internal ? i keep thinking of ext gate as thats what i use. Gary

Yeah you could have 100% duty until close to the boost you want , then ramp down rapidly to the correct duty, then roll off duty rapidly again if it exceeds the boost level you want. I would have tried this too, however mine was doing weird things.... like running fine at a set boost, but then suddenly dropping boost, and you had to go in and wind up the duty to get back to same boost ... weird. A local workshop has had several cars give same problems also, so we gave up on it. I've got a gizzmo MS-IBC , but i have yet to give it a good try out, since im still driving round on 5 cylinders. Once the new 3ltr is done, i'll invest some time into it. The gizzmo has a minimun of 10% duty it seems.... none seem to allow 0% ...... maybe the eboost2 does since you can set the "set point" .... which holds off until a set boost. I will scope the duty cycle of the eboost2 next time a car comes to me with one fitted. So can't wait for the new 3ltr to come, can't wait to see what TIP it gets with the .82 housing ! When it gets here i'll turn the boost right back up on the 25 and see what the TIP is , as i didnt get a chance to before it killed cyl1 ring land. And i can't afford to risk it until new motor is sitting here (it did 316rwkw with a 76psi cyl1 and no5 coil pack spring missing !! (don't ask) and all through a 3500 stall) Gary

Titan, i agree it would work, however abit dangerous, and i don't know of any controllers that work in reverse.... ie more duty for less boost, do you know of any that are able to be configured this way ? Lith, The G4 is an awesome bit of gear. I have the R33 plugin board, and i have also moddified it abit running some wires inside to bring out all the extra in's /out's not being used as well as using the expansion connector. However the boost controller is not active... ie you can map a 3d table to respond to boost drop etc, but its not actively tracking and correcting boost. It was supposed to be released in the latest firmware update, but alas no..... other than that, its awesome. Gary

Damn Sadist Trent. Ouch Yes but it is always preferable to have things automated. What happens if the fluid leaks out overnight on the 'other' day you don't check it ? And as for the other stuff failing, well... how far do you go monitoring things. Everything is possible but just not practical. A check valve is simpler. Just make sure it will handle the methanol. Gary

Yes its fine, just use good hose and hose clamp it well.... and route it away from manifolds etc or heat sleeve if close.

A simple solution with WI/WMI is to have a level switch in series with the boost solenoid . If the level is too low, then it disconnects the boost solenoid and your back to std boost. This assumes your running abit higher than spring pressure. If you don't use a controller, or its only a tad above base spring pressure, then you need to wire an input to the computer to pull timing as Trent suggests. If you don't have a spare input or use a stock comp, then wire the level switch to a bright in-your-face light on the dash so you can't miss it !! Gary

Bubba, i meant "cnc" programs for rb25 heads, not just porting in general

Just to add to this, i've only ever seen cnc heads guys advertise Rb26 heads, but even though its not on there website (that i could see) , Bullet say in there magazine adds they have programes for the rb25 and rb20 also.

Speak to Satanic on here.... Pm him ..... he has a close to 400 rwkw AUTO R34 ...... it runs an F-con pro (i think) ...anyway, it knows when the auto is about to shift and softens up the power to make smoother shifts etc .... best to speak to him, but it works very well.... and you can't dispute close to 400 rwkw ! Gary

If you could do that so Aircon could be retained, and be a bolt on proposition i'd dare say you might sell a few ! Where would it fit ? Under the Alt ?

And Shane, what are you up to now.... i thought you sold all your stuff !

I was just re-reading some mags last night before i went to bed, and i noticed in the article on the "700 Hp GTS-T" Cola coloured with carbon bonnet in HPI 102 . At the starts it stated he fitted an N1 oil pump. Just at the end of the article, it says, "As we went to press, we learnt ..blah blah blah ... the oil pump broke in two places !" Thought id share Makes you wonder if something has changed in there material composition or tolerances or something. Has anyone who has been racing or building with N1's for years seen this years ago, or was there a time they seemed to be ok... I think Greg said he used to use them until the recent failure ?? Makes you ask whats changed..?? Gary

See this is where you need to get yourself one of those home grown LINK's Lithium. Could have logged it all fully and had a nice graph. Video was a shocker I'll take your word it was better, and it stands to reason it should be with the norgren doing its job. I guess the reality is, if you had an electronic controller that COMPLETELY kept the boost away from the actuator till just before the level your trying to obtain (obviously this varies with each setup due to spiking etc) , then it would obtain the same results. I guess thats why i liked the Eboost2, as you can actually adjust the 'set' point it holds boost off till. Duty and gain and set point are user adjustable. Without whacking a CRO on the solenoids of any controller you can only guess whats really going on. Once my new motor is built, i'll do some testing on the dyno to gauge absoloute best responce (ie plumb boost to top port of ext gate and remove bottom boost supply) , then see what the gizzmo can achieve once a baseline is established Getting the best case scenario is the most important thing..... how many times do people on here post up boost responce from a certain combo, yet without knowing the best case, its hard to know if thats as good as it gets or not. Remember , tune comes into it alot also, not just the equiptment, and exhaust etc etc . Look forward to the new dyno boost graphs to compare Lith, once car is ready to go back. Just thinking about this, to achieve the same results as the Norgren Lith, all i would do is use an Aux output from the LINK G4 (or your pref choice ecu) to drive the same boost solenoid the (xxx) boost controller is using, and then set that Aux to be constantly on until it reached (xx) boost level, once there it turns off and the (xxx) boost controller is back in control ! Cost nothing but a little time (less than plumbing in the norgren and mounting it) Gary

Retarded timing can cause large increases in exhaust BP. Perhaps you still have a timing issues. Checked timing under load on a dyno ?? (keep your head out of the way of belts incase they let go !) And a simple way to rule out the exhaust system giving trouble is to move the pressure sensing out of the runner and into the dump for a few runs, or hook a boost gauge to it for a couple of runs. Then you can definatley rule it out. As R31Nismoid said, tennis ball isnt a good test. You need to see the actual pressure. And when your this deep with problems, don't leave anything to chance. Gary

Wow, that does look amazing ! Wonder how much they charge !!. Strange nobody as far as i've seen does cnc RB25 heads... anyone know ?

If its in good nic with minimal fin damage and fits the R33, i'll take it. Check your PM. Gary