jezzerrr

Just a word for all those looking - a flight to rockhampton from brisbane costs about $100, and the trip back isnt really that long. for this car, it's a pretty small bloody outlay considering the cost of this car for what it has.

sold!!! hey how do you get a hold of the senders!?

Looks like the 'merican "niggoz" have to catch up somewhat. I dont mind looking at the stuff, but i'd never own it. unless I had Sheeetloads of money, even then it would be say, my 20th car. much nicer cars to spend that kind of money on! with, say, performance! Gotta ask tho, what is the point? does it all boil down to impressing chicks? or impressing yo' boyz? which begs the next question....

Just an opinion, but I have doubts that the earth for the coil itself would be the mount, more likely that it's one of the three prongs on the connector... they do such a good job insulating the coil from the mount, and all the problems start when the coil starts arcing the to it. with this logic, the lower the resistance the more cause for concern...it should actually be null. again, only speculating atm... just keep it in mind if you come up with a dodgy result. also, if handling them was a problem, copper plug could probably be the worst thing to do for them...

Thanks Terry yeah the gap was .8 before I got it tuned up (ie the boost increase, and a few other things fiddled with). it actually only started popping after I removed the plugs to check their condition... I thought it was the coil pack wires shorting against the block, because I forgot to put their carriers back on. Replaced them, and the same thing. It only happened when the car was up to full temp, I got away with a few hard launches (after about 15 mins of driving) after replacing the carriers, thought all was well, then it did it again. once up to full temp it would do it like clockwork. So just to clarify, pinging isn't really audible in a loud car yeah? I know what it sounds like yet I heard nothing of the sort. the car just started hesitating - but then maybe this was the (stock)ecu retarding timing, hence not hearing the pinging... tho I was under the impression that the stocko didn't have that much control. I was actually more interested about the spark plug gap as more of a diagnosis of the idle drop... just interested as to why the idle would drop.. if anything I was expecting it to go up a tiny bit due to having a better spark, given that the heat range and gap were the same. I'll try upping the boost again today, I'm 99% sure that it was the plugs, but I have to throw in the curve ball of the crap fuel up here where I live. Although I threw a bottle of octane booster in and it did the same, so I'm more inclined to believe the plugs were the problem. I'm just at a loss as to how taking them out and putting them back in would have such a detrimental effect.

can shomebody answer my queshtion please

thanks once again goes to SK, and those that backed up his opinions Put some bcpr6es' in yesterday, gapped at .8, after running iridiums for 40K odd. Idle is now smooth as instead of the occasional misfire, and seems smoother right through the rev range. It also seems to run slightly cooler, although I haven't taken it for a long run to confirm this yet. Just a couple of small questions - when I put the new plugs in the idle dropped slightly. Yes, I currently have the (throttle) bypass valve disabled. The gap of the old plugs was .8 too. What does this point to? Also, if anything, the car has slightly reduced power, however this could just be my mind playing tricks on me, given that it also feels smoother now. My guess for both of these questions is that I may be able to get away with a slightly larger gap now. Before changing the plugs, I was running at just under 12 psi, however the car was starting to hesitate and pop under full throttle at around the 3500 mark, so I dropped the boost to 10.5ish. I've never heard pinging on a boosted motor, but I can't say that I heard anything like pinging when this was happening(tho I'm not sure how audible it would be over the din of the motor and exhaust), which led me to the conclusion that it was more likely missing (due to sparks blowing out) moreso than pinging. would that be right? So my question is this - what is the better option, re-gap the plugs or increase the boost again?

Bigger wheels are heavier than smaller wheels, simple as that. if you get smaller wheels, then you need more tyre. there is an equilibrium point between tyre and wheel, where you reach the best tyre-wheel ratio, and also the best tyre compliance (complinmenting suspension, etc, for road based suspension design). This compromise for both properties is reached at the wheel diameter of 17-18 inches(for medium to large cars). Below and your tyre weights start going up, above and your wheel weights go up, and your suspension has to work harder. unless your new wheels are specifically designed to be light, the wheel/tyre combo will most likely be a higher weight than your 17's. you could always take a wheel off and weigh them, to confirm any suspicions. To answer your questions, the only reason people buy big wheels is for bling. In theory, if your rolling diameter is actually slightly smaller (r33s2's calculations), all other things being equal, you would actually reach 100kph slightly quicker. Next thing you should so is take it to a good tuner, so they can do the necessary adjustments for your mods and up your boost.

maybe do a diagnostic. sensor may be buggered somewhere. check for leaks, cracked hoses etc. I've basically replaced all the sensor hoses on mine, so many of them were hardened from age

if it's a lot, I'd suspect your turbo shaft seal on the intake side. I imagine you would know if your rings were gone, your power would be down to buggery. hope you work it out mate.

I think you'll have a hard time selling it if it's running like a bag of shit. someone will buy it off you for cheap, spend $500 bucks on it and have a great car. take it to someone who knows what they're doing. it will be worth your money.

loosen it off. a bit of flutter is fine tho.

also check out the comparo that paul has put up in the rb25 turbo thread. shows you where the extra money for the hks goes...

mine has the same thing with dying off at high rpm - looks like peak power is at about 5500 then peters off. Looks like I have to back the boost off a bit now... it doesn't seem to like the fuel up here where I live - has a bit of a pop and splutter if the engine is fully up to temp and I give it WOT. Regardless i'll still be more than happy getting the extra fuel economy and better midrange. just have to leave the higher boost for brissie

double post...

Need to read, people. 200 is an easy target for your mods. you'll have a nice strong tune that you wont have to worry about every time you fill up. But my bet is you'll want more once you realise you can have it Damn power bug!

dunno mate, all I know is that he said the dyno was calibrated not more than a few weeks prior, and the dyno itself was only 6 months old. It doesn't seem unrealistic to me, considering Miller is getting the same with a fmic and less boost. and I would say 2 pounds of boost is worth more than a fmic at 10 psi, it's not like the inlet charge would be heated that much at 10. Note that my run was done in shootout, if that counts for anything (dyno reading higher than usual etc) As for the mesh, I've never seen any debris on it, and I maintain my filter, so i'm not worried about anything coming through it, or it disintegrating. I'd say it's one of those things that are open for contention. dunno, makes sense to me that air could flow through an open hole more than it could through one with mesh in it. prolly makes dick all difference in this application, but yeah, not worried. I'll get a power run done next time I'm near a another dyno.

Ok. but it does do things for fuel economy hey. well he still did a good job. I didn't want this to be a who knows more than who thread, just thought I'd give credit where it was due. my bad.

queensland mate.

Using the stock ecu. by tuning I meant dicking around with timing etc. apparently the timing was retarded to buggery when I brought it in. he also pulled the mesh out of the afm (some one had removed the rear, not the front mesh), and did what ever else he could do. One of the secondary air inlet valves was stuck, tps was out, O2 sensor had a dead short, etc. I didn't believe the 260 either, but there it was on the monitor. I hung around for most of the tune. I wouldn't be too comfortable running that with a stock intercooler anyway. He had also had the dyno calibrated a couple of weeks prior, so I'm led to believe it's pretty accurate. 250@ 10 psi is a nice figure, considering I need 2 more psi on mine for the same figure. No fmic on mine, but yeah, runs without a hitch. In any case, I'm pretty happy that I have more power, better midrange and shitloads better fuel economy. Jeremy

Mods, I'm not sure of the rules regarding recommendations, so feel free to edit/delete as necessary. The guy that runs the dyno behind Hardcore performance in Moss St. Still book through Hardcore. He really knows his way around gtst's. My car was running like a dog, dynoed at 204hp (shootout), chewing huge amounts of fuel etc. Gave it to him for 2 hours and I now have 247hp@12ish psi(spike to about 13, settled at 11.8) with no pinging at all on BP ultimate, and brilliant fuel economy (11.6L/100k highway cycle towing a trailer, have not once seen over 12.5L/100k's, including flogging it over mount glorious), and generally much nicer to drive in general. It actually did a run at 260hp but I asked him to back it off a bit for the potential of crap fuel where I live. He actually had the car for 2 1/2 hours but only charged me for 2, which was $250. To think, I thought I needed an aftermarket ecu to get these figures. Mods are turbo back ex, dump pipe, pod filter and bleed valve. So if your car is running like a bag of shite, this guy is well worth a look. Jeremy

That oil pressure sounds dodgy. You are looking at another 1-1.5k to get the suspension up to spec, if you buy it second hand. the fact that this guy sells the things and is acting dumb is another thing that sounds dodgy. No rust? Fresh paint job. Stock suspension doesn't have any thread on the body, nor any adjustments on the top of the shock. good luck with it dude, I know how it is when you have your heart set on something. Personally, If i'd waited a year for a car, I'd be prepared to wait another 6-8 weeks so I could freshly import something through one of the proper private importers. People importing as a "side business" always sound dodgy as to me.

The inlet diameter of the compressor wheel is 47mm. Looks like it's the standard one afterall.

yeah that's what I thought. may as well replace the biggest achilles heel while you're in there. I'm still not sure about this compressor wheel though... It's got two paint pen marks on it, one blue, one yellow (from memory), and it also has an N and an 8 cast into the wheel, on opposite sides of the wheel at the blade tip end of the wheel. The wheel also has a few chunks of alloy missing at the inlet end, I'm guessing from the balancing process as there are no scores or marks whatsoever to indicate that they went through the turbo. Given the 8 cast into the bearing housing, I'm fairly sure that it's not a hiflow wheel, but I could be wrong. The pen marks are the wierd thing for me.