jezzerrr

what a toss. I'm sure consumer affairs would wouldn't mind a call, if it was really getting on your goat. I have the same problem with northfield, bought a sub that they assured me would fit in the tyre well without problems, lowe and behold it didn't, and now I'm stuck with $300 store credit for a place that has nothing I want! well, nothing that I can't get off ebay for alot cheaper anyway

what was the price of the kit? I'm guessing by "kit", it comes with everything to bolt straight up yes?

you have a pm

just the shaft, dont need anything else. pm me if you have one you want to offload Cheers Jeremy

get a tube spanner , ie the type they give you for the spark plug on a lawn mower. turns out mine was the right size and all! you need to dismantle the connector to get the wires thru the tube spanner but that's not that big a deal, they seem to actually be made to be easily disassembled. obviously you can just cut the wires off the old one. You'll still need to drop the box a little to get in there, but it the job is pretty straight forward after that. Oh, and get a shortish tube spanner, so you have clearance. good luck with it

bumpity bump! whats the diameter of these things!?

yeah man it's pretty straight forward. The cam belt actually has marks on it so you can set it up correctly on the cams and crank. If you are not actually replacing the belt, just get a marker and mark across the belt and a tooth on each pulley before you pull it off, saves trying to get the cams TDC etc. easy peasy.

On the turbo side of the block. How the f$$k do you get these things out, and what size is it? I was thinking drill and pull, unless there is a better way, preferably the one where I dont have to pull half the f^%king engine bay apart to fit a drill in. R33 S2 if that makes any difference. Thanks heaps for any help guys This one, just above the engine mount -

found it, f*&k it. Welch plug beside the turbo. Dont know how hard or easy these bastards are to get out...

I got an aftermarket pump off the shelf! Exactly the same as a VL commy pump - same block. 91 bucks. Going slow it would take one person 4-5 hours to replace. To illustrate, once me and my mate knew what we were doing, it took us an hour and a bit, go to whoa, using all hand tools. It's not really as hard as people make it out to be, you just have to accept that there is no quick way to do it, and it's pretty systematic from there. Just make sure you mark the timing belt location on the cams and the crank, and take good note of the slack in the belt, and remember to only make it as tight when you're putting it back together. Otherwise you have to pull the freaking thing right back apart again! Timing belts are $140 ish, $60 odd for good coolant, so that's $300 odd in parts, and in all reality it should only take a qualified mechanic with all the right tools 2 hours to do the job, but you can bet your life you wont get the job done for $400 anywhere. add that to the fact that they'll probably find "a worn fanbelt" etc, and you'll be up for $600 at least, vs a day getting to know how your engine works. Meanwhile, my leak has started up again, I pretty sure it was slow enough that it was just evaporating while the motor was still hot. feeling around as best I could, it doesn't seem to be coming from the turbo... sigh.

It has a bleed at the front of the plenum, the one that says, "do not open when hot". mine didn't seem to have much air in it. Turning the heater on full is NOT necessary in R33's, coolant circulates through it all the time, and an air diverter flap controls how much air comes from the heater element.

Yes they do. I just did a search for "coolant leak" and got this thread, my R33 s2 dropped about a litre of coolant today, and that's just after having the coolant system flushed and replacing the water pump! So it's not the water pump. I'm buggered where if i know where it's coming from, the farthest i can trace back without starting to pull shit apart is the top of the left engine mount; I noticed a drop of coolant there. Basically what JC said, for all the world it looks like it's coming from the air side turbo / something very close or feeding to it. The other strange thing is it seems to only occur when the engine is cold... However this could be cause it evaporates from the heat before it has a chance to reach the ground/engine mount/whatever. This just after I think everything is fixed! god dammut. Somebody help us! anyone with their motor pulled half apart around? If not it'll be me tomorrow... I'm meant to be going to the damn Indy and I have a 600k trip to do to get there! Okay so I just had a quick look on fast... IF it IS coming from the turbo, which i reeeeeeealy hope it isn't, it would probably be leaking from either of the connections circled in red As I said, I reeeally hope it's not that.. but then, I'm not quite so sure what i'd prefer it to be...If anyone else can shed some light!!!!

yeah had them on the car... not exactly sure why you'd even have them on there in the first place, it's not like they really do anything. I put it down to that japanese fetish of having shit hanging off everything...

damn, so many options! lol

quick lesson - if you have idle hunt, backfiring, and the boost pressure guage on your dash doesn't work, check your boost sensor line! mine decided to break the day after I got the cat replaced... it was fairly brittle and the rubber hose actually broke, so i think I might go around the engine bay and check the rest of them too...

my idle hunt is back although alot better than it was and doing it alot less.... replaced my cat yesterday... the old one had nothing whatsoever in it! and viola! no more popping ^_^ I think my fuel economy is a *tiny bit* better too... although i haven't really been able to tell with the type of driving i've been doing

bumpizzle

Ideally in white, including the fog lamp/indicator bezels. even more ideally if it comes with m spec lip. Unless someone can point me in the direction of someone who makes the Trial or Trust style front bumper in plastic. Nailed a hare the other night, and I'm not particularly fond of the lack of strength of 'glass anymore! thanks Jez.

I had the annoying idle hunt, pulled out the aac vavle and it looks like it's brand new! so i did the second thing that i suspected, and thats that little thing on the back end of the plenum (not sure of it's name). pulled it off, pulled it as apart as i could, soaked in in petrol and scrubbed it as best i could with a brush. The piston that looks like is regulates air was very carboned up, and now that it's clean I have a beautifully smooth idle! although it idles a bit high at the mo. I have the exact same problem with my exhaust! I thought it was just running rich, I should have been wise to the leaking gasket possibilty.. plugs were changed 15000 k's ago so I dont thing they are a problem. I have suspected that my cat is shagged for a while as it has an annoyingly loud vibration at around 2000 rpm. so I'll be checking for fooked gaskets first, and then I'll be replacing that cat! So how did you go Tommo? what was your cat worth? Lucky me, mine came with a dump pipe i think it's still the standard cat too, so I might be up for a little power increase that's if i dont find out that the vibration is a piece of turbo !!!!

kero, a rag, an old credit card, and patience. soak the sticky stuff well with your solvent, then use the credit card to carefully scrape it off. dont go too hard or you'll end up with scratches.

my face vents still turn on and off and i have the click. I would imagine that it clicks because something is jammed, so if it was disconnected i cant imagine it making any difference to the current function of the system. I haven't actually been able to find what it actually actuates! might try and nut it out on FAST later... if i knew how to get to it I would have disconnected it ages ago.... and at least if you disconnect it, you can find out exactly what it affects before you decide to pull the dash out....

re-adjusted to 5mm play and all is well 1 hour turnaround with 2 people working on it

If you have a sniff of mechanical knowledge and some decent tools, the timing belt is an easy job. I'm no genious, but i just pulled the thing apart systematically, and it was all fairly straight forward. the biggest bug bear is the balancer, but that's only until you realise the cool people at Nissan have put two little screw holes to put bolts in and push it off. If a mechanic told me it was going to take him 4 hours to do it i'd tell him to blow it of out his arse. it's a 4 hour job for a layman, about a 1-2 hour job for a slow mechanic. I reckon I could do it in an hour, 2 hours tops, now that i know what i'm doing, and i aint no mechanic

I have just replaced my water pump as it karked it today, would you believe the radiator shop had a water pump to suit on the shelf! but anyway i did the belt back up to what i thought was the right tension (read: fairly tight) and now it whirrs and at low rpm makes the car sound sick. not the good sick. So yeah, dont do it up too tight! and it's a pain in the arse to get to the adjuster so make sure you get it right the first time! dammit...

Do Luck rims very neat! but Very wide. would prolly corner well