jezzerrr

yeah mate. hook your hose from the plenum to the top one. neither is a "boost sensor" as such. I think the second one is the same as the design on the oem BOV, it aids to seat the valve under boost. But I seriously doubt you need that unless you're running uber boost. The typs s has about double the seating pressure on the lightest setting of my oem BOV! mine is fine without it and all the ones I've seen installed dont use it. the type s is good for 15 odd lb of boost. Looks like your top has been turned 180 deg too.... usually both connections are on the same side. you'll prolly want to tighten it down it a bit more than it is too :Pimp2:

pull the thing apart mate, that's what I did and the PBR "fingers" were partially fused to the board. you'll need to pull the circuit board right out to see the actual PBR. Sounds like you have the same problem as I did. I'm buying another actuator as we speak... It's a used one so i just hope it's not rooted too... will be pulling it apart and lubing it as soon as i get it!

I had some twit in a newish BA falcon take off from the lights beside me yesterday, thinking I would drag him. wanker. I just looked at him and thought "if only you knew" lol. now he'll go back to his mates and tell them he flogged a skyline no doubt. I cant see an (equivalent of) $80K ish sports gt doing over 15 on the qtr. so no, there is no way in hell a magna could touch an r33gtst. and I had a magna for 5 years before I got this, so I have a fairly good idea of how they go. a commodore would beat a gts, at a guess, but looking at the figures, it would be a closer race than I thought it would be... 140odd kw out of 2.5 litres is pretty damn good!

shit that's a shame

yeah pretty poor, undervalues pretty much everything. your best bet is just to average the prices on carsales/carpoint etc australia wide. Redbook isn't really any kind of official pricing guide either, from what i can gather. Glass's guide is the official one, but good luck getting it if you're not a dealer

maaate sweet as! good old aussie ingenuity eh. I reckon if I cut and shutted and it required me to do ANY kind of welding it would end up looking like the titanic! but I'll keep it in mind! I've got a mate that's pretty good with fabbing stuff up, so I might be able to sort something out with him. It's only bit's and pieces of metal after all. So you got any photos of your set up? I'd be interested to see how it all fits in etc.

$250 at autobarn ATM, if you're quick. only a few left in stock in the country! then they are no more! for less that $350ish anyway

hey all A small while ago there was a thread (or part of one), where a guy here was fitting an s14 towbar on an r33. I think. I cant for love nor money find that thread now. Can someone tell me if this is right, the guy who was doing it said it was a straight fit, save having to extend the mounts a few inches for a hump in the back of the sedans, and another guys voiced his concerns about towing once the car had been modified a bit. If anyone has done this, can they elaborate on how easy/hard it is? doesn't look like there's much room back there for a towbar... Thanks in advance:) Jeremy

:werd:

series one. I love 400R but it's a tiny bit over the top... series one looks very tidy, where you have to get a good 400R kit to actually look good. I'm guessing it would scrape less too!

But it looks damn trick

Is it legal to remove air bag wheels if the car comes with one? I'm just thinking of re-doing the rim of my wheel with suede... ever had a suede steering wheel? mmmm they rock. Isottas are pretty damn nice tho

Man I feel really sorry for you! I had a magna before the skyline - same deal, i wanted something different tho i only got as far as lowering and 19's.... I have photo's of your car on my computer, one of the nicest put together magnas out there! My condolances That woman didn't actually say "you look back on this and laugh" did she? If she did, shedeserves a smack in the head! it's not something you say while someones pride and joy is still burning! I think i know the reason people put those battery isolator switched in now... I hope it wasn't the turbo timer, but it raises an interesting point... and I hear ya on the handbrake, that's the first thing I would have done too! I can assure you tho, that if you decide to go the skyline route, you will never look back. I spent quite alot of money on the suspension on the magna, and the skyline is soooo much more dynamically(and in performance) superior out of the box than I could have hoped to make the magna be. To hell with being really different, it costs too much damn money!!! I bought the Skyline for the equivalent of the Magna, and I would have had to spend at the very least 15k on the Magna to even hope to get the enjoyment out of it that I do the skyline. As for being different, the skyline turns plenty enough heads to keep me satisfied I know it seems like i bagged out the Magna here, but i still loved it for what it was it had decent power, could leave commy's behind (much to their disgust) , handled ok, and made people think twice about their preconceptions of magnas. They're given a really bad wrap, and they dont deserve it. I blame mitsu's PR! but that's a story for another day. hope you get some wheels back soon mate. Make sure you test drive a couple of r32's if you dont have alot of money to spend

you have a pm

no, it whistles. like Nfsu2, fast and the furious, etc edit: but you can achieve it to a degree by winding down the spring ie making it tighter. this will cause "reversion" which will cause the chatter noise you are talking about. There is debate as to just how bad this is for your turbo... I think so long as you have air coming out of your BOV (ie turbo is still spinning forward), it's not too bad.

R33 S2 gtst lowered on 5zigen rays 17's pod filter, 3" rs*r exhaust mp3 player, jbl speakers neat nick all round with the exception of a few chips off the bottom of the front bumper 20k

that's $50 and $60 bucks cheaper respectively, so it's a pretty good deal. The minis are a bit dearer than the normal ones, and they're having a run out sale on the old 20 ipods... The new ones are $449. Take your pick really, it's a pretty good deal on the old ipods... but i'd take a mini if i could afford one

HKS make funky purple timing belts too... I reckon the clear timing cover is just as blingy as the snazzy stuff you want to show off beneath it! looks hot... dont know about 50000 k's down the track tho...

Man that's pathetic. they have to check the essentials ONLY. Is it safe? yeah. Is it legal? yeah. That's it. most garages use it as an excuse to extort more money from you. The guy i took it to, didn't even notice the reverse lights dont work! lol that's taking things a bit far tho. as for oil, if there's a drop waiting to drip, then yeah I agree, it needs to be fixed. but to expect a 15 year (5 year even) old car, not to have any oil residue on the block? give me a break. When they're that tight, people start doing bodgies to get their car thru (ie cleaning down engine etc.) The fella that did mine also said that he is bit tighter on people selling their cars, than people buying them. They dont even need to look at the damn aircon system!

I'd better mention that all that is only IMHO! purely based on what I know about the individual components making up the system, and not necessarily the parts themselves. I dont race, I dont tune. But I do know that if my turbo goes bang cause of a mod I made based on what Mr/Mrs X said, they aint gonna be there to pick up the pieces! I also notice on that le-mans car, the incredibly short run from turbo to butterfly... ie not much stored energy to try and push itself back past the impeller when(if) the turbo comes to a stop... Not nearly as much as something running an intercooler, complete with runs to and from... The autospeed article is a very good explanation and could be a very good argument against BOV's, and it is if you're racing, and you can keep the "skidding" noise going for the duration of the gear change, which would be pretty easy. You could even say that the skidding noise is a good thing! But I was thinking, what does it mean when the "skidding" noise stops? and there is 50+PSI infront of it, atmo or vacuum pressure behind it, and no exhaust gases powering it? hmmm. HMMmmmmmmm.....

mines a total pain in the arse atm... the latex/rubber that the buttons are moulded onto is cracking and has lost it's strength... so chances are every time a bit of pressure (like a tiny bit) is put on the buttons while in your pocket, it arms or disarms. quite annoying when you're getting into the car with keys in hand, and the bloody thing arms

http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/223 dont lose hope just yet.... might pay to drop them a line

Chirping is kinda like that whole fad of wearing your mobile phone on your belt so everyone could see you had one. Never liked that either.

I'm no pro regarding turbos, and I'm not going to pretend to be (but i know a bit about pumps, turbines and PRV's, which i'll go into shortly). Nissan enginneers put a BOV there for a reason, and with a plastic inlet spool, I'm not going to argue the point too much. My BOV stays. I do worry about the leaking-overspeed thing tho, which it does atm, so i'm buying an aftermarket jobbie. The beauty of actually having a BOV is you can mimic having no BOV if you want, just wind the bastard right up. for me tho, I have to agree with sydneykids' line, and can see how you need to "tune" your bov for best performance. To clarify, the "turbine" section of a turbo is actually on the exhaust side, it is an impulse turbine, to be precise. The induction side is indeed a pump, and is definately not a turbine,. If it was a turbine, then you'd be able to call any old centrifugal pump a turbine. Although people do still like to call it one, it is not, by definition, a turbine, just attached to one. So in the case of a turbo, as with any pump, it will pump up to it's maximum pressure/flow, and then it will dead head/cavitate. So this is fine if you cannot reach the top of this pumps' efficiency curve, ie you cannot reach it's max pressure/flow. however, running no BOV you will very quickly reach this point, at which stage, if the pump still had power, it would increase RPM. HOWEVER, as this is a unique pump, in that at the same time you are dead heading it, you are also removing it's power source, it will not increase in rpm, it will simply slow down , and possibly stall and reverse, as it increases pressure in the run to the throttle butterfly, using nothing but the momentum of it's revolution. No Bov It is understandable, how no BOV can increase power. If you manage to change gears quickly enough that your turbine has not stalled, you will have increased pressure after the turbo by a substantial amount, at which point you re-open the throttle, and you get a handy rush of 15+psi into the plenum, and hopefully the turbo hasn't slowed down too much to say, 40000 rpm, using the example Sydney Kid provided before, and is able to speed back up quickly and provide boost. But given how quickly it spools up, I'd imagine it would slow down fairly quickly too, so you'd have to be pretty swift in the throttle all the times to not stall the turbo, which is why BOVs probably aren't used so much in racing. Which would tend to point to the fact that if you're car is not a racer, you might be doing a bit of harm to your turbo by NOT driving your car at full noise all the time and dong snap changes. Race cars, PRV's In regards to race cars, most of them run pneumatic boxes nowadays, so the need for a BOV is even less, basically, the only time it would possibly be needed is when they are slowing down for a corner. Indy cars still run pop off valves, which I believe are set slightly higher than their on throttle boost pressure, and so act like a "style" of BOV, in that they release excess pressure (why would they want to do that, i wonder?). Another name for a pop off valve is a pressure relief valve, which actuate at one pressure, and reseat at a lower pressure, by way of two diameters that the passing air acts upon. once the PRV is open, the air acts on a greater surface area, allowing it to reaseat at a lower pressure than it actuated at. Leaky Bov It's piss easy to understand how this can stuff things up. one, the overspeed issue mentioned before, and two, also mentioned, you lose all your boost pressure as soon as the bov opens. As my understanding of bovs goes, I dont think that either of these scenarios was what BOV's were designed to do, it's just what we're used to them doing. Best of Both worlds If you tune your bov to act like a PRV, voila! you have the perfect system. And the beauty of a BOV over a PRV, is that is is alot more tuneable than a PRV, so you can effectively fine tune the pressure at which it actuates, and the pressure at which it reseats, so as to maintain pressure, and at the same time, keep the turbine spooling. All in all MUCH more controllable than running no bov at all, and you dont run the risk of over pressuring your turbo. And the other advantage it has over a pop off valve is that it is vacuum actuated, so at times when you aren't running at full noise, it will open enough so that your turbo doesn't stall or reverse. So all in all, If your BOV is leaky or worn out, that is bad. If you race, or drive hard ALL the time (ie not really anything you can do legally on the street), and never just stab it and drop off again (to get that "pigeon" sound, non BOV people! and you say the BOV sound is a load of wank!), you can probably run without a BOV. If you drive your car daily, and dont want to stress too much about doing bad things to your turbo, then a correctly set up BOV is the way to go.

what he said