Adriano

Yes, you simply put the lsd centre into your crownwheel and housing

Sounds like cas. you could remove the cas from the front of the motor, leaving it plugged in, figure out which pins are power, earth and the 2 sensor wires. put your meter on the sensor wires, and turn the cas over slowly by hand, the volts should go up to 5v and down on both channels at different times.

Just one more thought, driveline loss should be fixed=percentege of the torque, not the power, thats why it doesnt reflect obviously, as its rare to multiply the torque of a motor by say 4 times, but multiply the power by 4 times, happens all the time

Check for power at the injectors first, heap easier than checking the CAS without an oscilloscope

Realistically to run 300rwkw, you would want the same upgraded components for both motors, so to have the added torque, you would also be better ahead financially to start with the rb30

When they take the cover off, they have to adjust the timing, check the CAS at the front of the exhaust can, and see if the mounting bolt witness marks from where it used to be are different to where it is now bolte.ie: it has been rotated(probably clockwise)from where it previously was.

And 6 collars to go around the bottom of the injectors i think

Agreed, timing, see if they adjusted the handbrake, its a long shot, but not impossible.

How about a neo? they have 11mm feeds, and can be spaced up easily to allow for the extra height, especially if using an aftermarket plenum

Usually this style of plenum as with a stock rb26 one causes more air to enter the rear cylinders. As for testing, i seriously doubt many companies do it properly, as the only way to do it is to put it onto a motor, and monitor the mixtures/ex temp of each cylinder at all different loads and rpm points. A flow bench wont replicate the real world, its like a dyno, only a comparative tool, as the flow bench cant replicate the pressure waves and so forth associated with running an internal combustion engine. In mt opinion the only way to make a perfect inlet manifold it would end up looking like an eshaust manifold with curved equal length runners which meet up at a common focal point facing the throttle body, and even then the throttle plate at lower angles would favour some cylinders. Some of the jap drift manifolds that use a remote throttle, with it piped to the centre of the tapered plenum look to be the closest that can be done.

Cubes i agree with you 100%. I would like to see someone put a 600hp car on the dyno and hold it flat out at maximum torque for 1min, i bet the diff and the gearbox would be on the verge of being red hot internally.

If your trying to blend it into the bonnet, dont wast your time, it will crack, better off having a join and filling it with drip check, then painting it.

About $500 tops for a good tune, about 3hrs on the dyno and 1 hour checking over and setting up. More if there are problems found.

Definately less than percentage loss, but definately more than no increase. Just think, losses due to oil drag in g/box & diff will be the same, but frictional losses will increase proportionally. The only way to know for sure is to pout it on a engine dyno and then a chassis dyno. I would say 250RWKW=about 320FWKW, and 300 RWKW=about 380FWKW

Autronic can run the airflow meter, i would definately go for the sm4, as its FA more than the older SMC, and has heaps more built in features that are useful, dwell control, closed loop idle and boost control, option of 6 ignition outputs and closed loop individual ignition control(only retards cylinders that are knocking), and launch control. I would argue that these feautres make them the most advanced ECU on the market at the moment, sure you cant datalog 8 channels at once, but who needs it when you can go faster due to this last feature. By the way, PFC can run without AFM.

Also intereated in the top feed rail, do you know what diameter the injector feed is(it should be 11mm or 14mm)inside diameter. Pics?

Good luck with that mate, he was selling it 2 years ago

Im betting its either the injector o-rings or the diaphramin the fuel pressure reg, does it do it if you unplug all the injectors?Wont be tps, acell enrichment is nowhere near enough to causse this. Check the vacuum hose from the FPR to the inlet manifold(unplug it whilst cranking to see if fuel comes out there.)The reason why it is happening on different cylinders is because of the side feed inlet manifold.Might be good to do a compression test, this has been known to cause bent rods.

Yep, no reason why it wont work, just make sure you get the angle right, it may require an adjustable cam wheel.

Sure will work

I have setup a few cars with anti lag on autronics, but to some degree it can be done with all programmable computers. I cant see any reason why you would ever have the antilag operating for 30 seconds. IMO there are two differnt schools of thought for antilag, drag and circuit. Drag just gives a stationary rev limit, allowing boost to be developed ready for launch, this can be used with enrichment and retardation for better results. Secondly there is the rally car style which is primarily to maximise transient throttle response. This can be setup in many different ways, stepper motor on the throttle. air injection(as late evo's) and rotating idle . Circuit cars dont tend to need it, as they tend not to need instantanious throttle response as it tends to unsettle the car. The other way of doing antilag for a car is to set your high rpm/light throttle load cells(above 3500rpm with vacuum below 15")to a mixture of 12.5:1 and retard the timing to 5 deg. In doing this upon gearchanges in nthe upper rev range, it significantly reduces transient response or "lag". This seems to also work well on the track with big turbos, as it can be done cheaply and can be tailored to suit the driving style. It also doesn't affect any other driving characteristics, and is a set and forget sort of thing.

^^^^^agreed, also it will do away with venting bov issues, and reversion stalling, just put it in a nice straight run, as close to the throttle, and make sure its after the BOV as far as possible, you may have to clean it or at least check it regularly.

Just wondering after al this, is my HKS rb26 ex manifold suitable for this sort of aplit pulse scavenging setup, as the runners arent the same lenghs?Another question Mafia, when you were tuning this, if you added more timing did it ping, or did it just lose power, all the rb's ive tuned ive found max torque for a given load is found just shy of detonation, which is the opposite of other motors ive tuned, whereby max torque is found well before detonation.

I agree, 9mm preload seems way too much, i usually run about 1mm, just enough to keep it tight, turbing up the boost by this method with a factory wastegate isnt a good way to do it for the reasons that youve outlined.

It was also due to the rwin bypass system on the vl, and a manufaucturing flaw on the baffle in the radiator, which meant over time it broke off, fell down and blocked the lower radiator hose.