Adriano

You havnt taken into account that there is vacuum on the other side of the throttle plate, so that force is more like 150kg. I dont think a boost spike like that woiuld be particularly uncommon, its just that people dont usually measure it. Maybe try blocking the BOV altogether, and ill bet it goes to 3bar.

Actually i would say the timing is very retarded, the base timiing may have been retarded when the SAFC was tuned to allow those -ve numbers without pinging, and now you have set them to zero.

????put a bolt in what?

I doubt that noobie, every post you have made so far shows inexperience.

I would have it cutting in well before 14psi to get the most out of your efforts, more like 5psi, good luck with it.

Mate, put the stock BOV back on, they are fine for 300rwkw, and work as nissan intended them to.

If it has a different weight, or will result in different compression/squish/valve clearance, then it is absolutely unacceptable.

Is this where Mafia and i start ranting about venting BOV's causing stalling, rough running, pollution and bad fuel economy?

" black smoke ONCE out the exhaust but not constantly" Im a bit confused as to when it is blowing smoke. A venting BOV will blow black smoke and make it run rich on gearchanges, as the ECU thinks that air coming out the BOV is going through the motor, so it adds the corresponding amount of fuel. When you change gears it fuels the motor up, then when you accelerate again it comes out as a big puff of black smoke. Assuming the BOV isnt leaking under boost, it wont make the car blow smoke continuously when under load, just the big puff after a gearchange.

I would do a diagnostic check of the standard computer, and check the ignition timing.

I would be trying to get it running perfectly before fitting the methanol inj, as it will just complicate the problems, with the meth inj, you can run up to about 12.8:1 AFR's at full load safely.

It seems unlikely to be coils, as it is occurring after peak torque, however if the ignition timing is slightly retarded, it increases the load on the coils, as the combustion pressure at plug firing is higher. You will usually find that once the engine has gone past peak torque you can start to add some timing back in as the volumetric efficiency is dropping off. If you can put up a graph of the ignition timing with a plot of the cells it goes through on a power run it would be great.

A PFC wont get any large gains over a good remap, remember there are 800hp GTR's in japan with remaps.

You could use the void as a remote resevior for the brake booster

If the bypass pipe was an appropriate diameter, there is no reason you couldnt use the standard AFM. One thing to bear in mind, is that you would want the bypass to flow roughly the same amount of air as the AFM, and make sure you clean the airfilters at the same time, as any differential from when the car is tuned could cause a drastic change in the A/F ratio

I would disconnect the wastegate arm from the flap pivot on the exhaust housing, you need to check 2 things, the preload(how far you have to pull the "arm " out of the wastgate can to hook it on) it should be about 2mm. The other thing to check is the tension of the spring in the wastegate can, pull the arm away from the can, you should be able to move it 12-15mm but it should be quite hard to do so. Some other potontial problems with the wastegate can be a badly cracked exhaust housing/wastegate flap or a wastgate flap not seating properly, all these problems will cause slow boost build.

Do a diagnostic search of the computer, good chances its, CAS, Igniter, AFM or fuel pump. Do you notice if the tacho drops off when it happens?

Auto one sell those cushioned P clamps in a range fo sizes from about 8mm-30mm

Nice work dale, makes me want to eat some garlic bread, LOL. PS I think with that insulation the HPC would be a bit of a waste of money, not much would be getting through the rest.

Im willing to bet you have put a venting BOV on it, put the stocker back on and 95% sure it will fix your problems and get heaps better fuel economy.

Have you spoken to the head shop in question, ive had 2 heads ported by them, and numerous other machine work. They have also never asked for money up front, maybe it was because you are from interstate?

r33boy, maybe check the tension in the wastegate actuator.

I though you had to drill out the banjo on the water lines and use the bigger rb25 banjo bolts, but im going off what ive heard, never actually done it.

If you are fitting froged pistons, i would build the bottom end first, and get the head serviced, then measure everything up and calculate the comp ratio and squish using the different head gaskets, any good engine shop will be able to do this.

What management are you running, and do you know what ignition advance you are running up there?