aphid

+1 to that on a totally unrelated matter - Den Den town, Osaka rawks my jawkz <3

Heya, I'm in Japan at the moment I've got an r34 GTR back home in Bris, and went to look at some oh so sexy R35 GTRs today.. While trawling through the dealerships I came across a few 370z, and zomg are they sexy.. I don't think the pictures that I'd seen of them on the net really did them any justice as to what they actually look like in real life. The interior of the cars is soo fkn immaculate, easily on par if not better than the R35. The 370z makes the 34 GTR look 20 years old and compared to the 370 I'm sorry to say it really does make it look like a dinosaur I guess I couldn't say for sure without getting a drive of the 370z which I'd truely prefer, but as far as looks / quality go, I'd say the 370z wins hands down Cheers, Markus

intersection after the hornybrook bridge coming back to brisbane

thanks alot chris that was exactly the info i needed!!! kudos for you my friend

i guess that was me don't know of any other nizmo blue 34 gtr's getting around brisbane, can't remember what i was doing at logan though lol

it's a little more confusing than that.. the GTR is setup differently to the GTT. there are 3 separate boxes controlling the remote central locking & immobiliser the first is the actual immobiliser box itself, the second is the relay box for the passengers side of the central locking inside the car, the third looks like a relay for something else (thought it might be for the drivers door but it's only got 3 wires) this second box is connected to a sensor inside the solenoid box in the drivers door that is triggered when the drivers door is unlocked or locked, then triggers the solenoid in the passengers door accordingly. the triggers for the solenoid inside the drivers door are attached to something else, and according to the service manual they're attached through the dash cluster (about 60 wires) into a "remote central locking C/U". the "remote central locking C/U" box shown in the manual is the one that is in a GT-T, and the GT-R is physically a different shape to what is shown in the manual and the plug has a vastly different pin configuration (the GTR has an immobiliser box instead). it would be alot easier if i had a remote that would work with the stock central locking system, as then i'd be able to measure voltage on the different wires to determine which ones were the triggers. guess the next step is really to measure the impedance across the solenoid itself then start looking for similar impedance across random pins on the immobiliser box and earth or start hacking apart the loom and tracing i was really hoping that somebody had the pinouts for the GT-R immobiliser box stashed somewhere but ah well anyway sorry for the rant, merry christmas all!!

Hey Guys, As the topic suggests I'm having a few dramas with the factory cental locking system in my 1999 R34 GTR. I'm currently installing a new alarm into the GTR as the old alarm was an extremely dodgy install. The previous install used an aftermarket solenoid tek screwed into the door, however I'm 99% sure the existing box installed in the door hooked upto the locking system not only acts as the sensor to activate the solenoid on the passengers door but also as a solenoid for the remote central locking (I only got one factory GTR key with the car which I'm assuming is a spare as it doesn't have any remote central locking buttons on it, but being a GTR you'd assume it did infact come from the factory with remote central locking). I can find the Lock and Unlock wires that trigger the passenger door (from the low current side of the relay) however I'm at a loss in where to find these wires for the drivers side. I've looked through a few circuit diagrams I could dig up on the internet and I now think the solenoid in the drivers door is powered from the factory immobiliser box. I have the R34 service manual translated into english I dug up on the internet but it's only got the GT-T immobiliser pinouts in it The GTR appears to have a different box.. Thanks in advance for any help you guys can give, Marcus

I was working out at Wilberforce (Behind Windsor) last monday.. heard what i thought was a ferrari coming up the street.. it turned into a high pitched drone about 10 seconds later, couldn't figure out what the fck was coming my way.. waited another 10 seconds and the first ferrari came around the corner, skidded it and flew up the street, followed by atleast another 30 i counted flogging there way out of the corner and up the street. It was an incredible site and the noise gave me the fattest boner I've had in quite some time.. I snapped a few pics on my shitty iphone camera but they're not the best quality, definently one of the highlights during my time working here down south!

mate it's the internet, get over it - if i posted on an electricians forum that i used a fork to get my toast out of the toaster i'd expect a similar response. if you can't handle constructive critisism and it upsets you to this degree you probably shouldn't be on here...

looks THE shit

$1200 for the rims depending on the condition of the rubber.. price on the arc radiater??

cam belt mate, same thing happend to me at a set of lights tunring onto the highway, straight away i thought it was the solenoid getting stuck so was banging the f**k out of that, then realised there was no belt there anymore EDIT: there isn't enough lift in the rb25 to interfear with the pistons, you can rotate the crank 360degrees with the timing belt off without the pistons touching the valves.. this may also be because they run hydrolic lifters i guess and at idle / when the engine is off there isn't enough pressure there to get maximum lift? perhaps with the extra lift and solid lifters this is what the grinding noise was

is it possible you've sat on high rpm for too long and flooded the head with oil which in turn has flowed out through the breather into the intake?

yeah see that's the thing, i can recall reading in a few places of people shaving the head to increase compression but now that i'm actually interested in it I can't find the posts to get an increase from 8.2:1 to 9.0:1 it seems to me that you'd have to take off atleast 3mm, which to me seems an aweful lot

Hey guys, I've got my head off my rb25/30 at the moment (rb30e block with the standard r33 rb25 head) and am curious to know if it is possible to shave enough off the head to get a comp close to 9:1? I've had pretty decent search around the place for how much people have shaved off there heads but can't actually find a figure, only that it is recommended to get extra compression.. I've tried calculating it out myself with a calculater but I seriously can't get the numbers to match I've also tried two online engine compression calculators and according to them I've currently got a 6.4:1 and a 4. something :1 compression ratio respectivly, using exactly the same data, when I'm thinking I should be after a figure closer to 8.2:1 Any help would be very much appreciated Thanks guys Marcus

$50?

yeah sorry if i sounded harsh, but mate, limit that beast back to 7000rpm.. it's a beautiful looking car, but 9000rpm is really really stupid, anyhow.. back on topic. free bump

lol, 9000rpm on a stock rb25 with a redline of 11000rpm... buyer beware, this guy is an idiot

remapping the stock ecu has it's advantages over the power fc (knock vs ignition retard!!), but unless you own a romulater (they're like $300ish from memory) then you're shit out of luck if you want to fine tune / live tune if you do find a bug in your maps.. so it becomes a costly excersize every time you want to get the maps touched up as opposed to the power fc where it takes all of two minutes to access them with the hand controller

hey mate, i've got a ticket to the thursday night one i wanna get rid of, msn me at [email protected] or just pm me on here

Had the same symptoms on my 33 gts-t, was the cas.. I took it apart afterwards and it turned out that a piece of metal had shimmed off inside and was randomly blocking the led inside of it. Another thing to check that causes similar symptoms would be your air flow meters. Over time the solder joints on the inside of it go brittle and snap, causing random voltage fluctuations inside the ecu causing you to run rich and misfire under load. If you're blowing dirty amounts of black smoke (fuel) then I'd be looking at the afm's, if it's just a little random black smoke then I'd say the cas (Retarded ignition as opposed to no ignition at all Wouldn't be overly worried about the oil coming out of one of your pods, I'd say it's actually venting somewhere, perhaps as your father said the PCV valve then getting sucked back in through the pods, causing it to build up on the outside of the filter. Sit down one weekend with about 10 cans of that nice $2 degreaser you get and clean out the engine bay, as it'll have shitloads of dirt & grime built up, and once it's clean you'll be able to spot oil leaks alot easier

thanks for the replies guys yeah i'll swap out the plugs tomorrow for some spares i've got laying around, else i think i'm going to grab the stock coil pack loom off a mates wrecked 33 (i butcherd mine making the wasted spark ) and whack the stock ignition setup back in there.. just seems too suss that this problem would arise a day after changing to the wasted spark.. must've triggered something somehow.. will also check the afm voltages again, but i didn't see any rich smoke coming out of the exhaust anyway keep the idea's coming, thanks heaps guys

Hey all, First things first.. Engine is an rb25/30 with an externally gated garrette t04e, power fc and the other usual mods running a wasted spark setup that I finished installing on sunday. Car was running fine before the wasted spark, and was running perfectly fine after the wasted spark for about a day. I first noticed the misfire after boosting out of a corner and had the usual low fuel misfire, so I went and put in 5 litres of mobil regular premium to get me to a decent fuel station. Pulling out of mobil the car was running fine again till about 5 minutes down the road where I again boosted at which point the engine completly cut out, it was as if somebody had unplugged the igniter pack, 100% misfire. I pulled over to the side of the road and tried to start my car but it wouldn't. I left it 5 minutes and tried a few more times, the last of which she turned over perfectly, not struggling to start at all. I thought this weird and decided to turn home to stop myself getting stranded and found that as soon as I touched the accelerator the car would misfire, much the same as a set of dodgy coil packs. By the time I got home I could only let the car idle in 2nd gear as as soon as I touched the accelerator she would misfire and almost stall. At first I checked the usual things, ignition is fine when the misfiring occurs as is the timing.. Car didn't seem to be blowing any black smoke during the misfire indicating perhaps she was running lean. At this point I'd also like to point out that at no point was the car knocking on the drive home (power fc with fc datalogit hooked upto the laptop datalogging so I started to suspect that it may be a dodgy fuel pump, so I swapped it out with a brand new 040 I had laying around, however the problem persisted. It does seem weird that the problem started after installing the new wasted spark setup (3xchampion bomb0d0re coils with stock r33 igniter), but the car did run fine for a period after installing them I've now checked all sensors and they all appear to be reading fine, and I'm at a loss for what else to do.. any thoughts or idea's would be greatly appreciated cheers, marcus

totally agree with Adriano, I also say the workshop in question may be giving bryn bias information in an effort to gain maximum profit, because there is no way for about 2k extra the haltech is a better option over the remapping the stock.. I queried said mechanic on this and his response was "well the haltech has a 32bit processor, the stock is only 8bit" LOL

yeah i definently say stop being dodgy and buy a decent cooler, that return pipe just looks cheap and nasty IMO