aphid

why not just throw it in 5th gear and pull up the handbrake.. works for me every time, or do you mean that when you do this the clutch starts to slip :| because then you've got seriouse problems lol

wow mad props to that guy! he is my inspiration, i bet all you guys are just jealouse that you can't handle a car like that! wow, i wish we saw more of that around here in Australia, most people here are too scared of real driving on the streets and come out with wussy comments like those ones ^^^ GROW SOME BALLS

sold to me

haha, the first week i got my skyline back in 05 and the 3rd week i'd been in melbourne a mate and i decided to go and have some fun in the wet.. unfortunently the area we picked just happened to have a police station on the first corner we flew around.. about 3 corners up we pulled over to pick up my mate who was over some chics house trying to make a low profile exit when all of a sudden a police car speeds up the street and stops behind mine, lights flashing.. the two got out, one was a sergent the other had no stripes, the sergent went around my car, got me to pop the hood and instantly pointed out the BOV, intercooler and pod fitler, stating straight away that they were illigal modifcations and the exhaust was too loud.. he started writing me a canary for all of these offences whilst the other officer checked the legitimacy of my licence and wrote me out the victorian equivilent of "creating smoke and noise" whilst my mate who had just made a quick exit from the house stood there shaking his head in shame as the chic's family had all come out the front to watch.. lol anyway after like 15 minutes of him writing, he checked my licence and goes "oh.. you're from queensland mate" to which i replied "aha yeah" thinking he was going to f**k me even harder, but he replied "wow, i was born and raised in sandagate, i was school captain at sandgate high", and i laughed and said yeah i went there too, then said i was down here with the army.. he then went something like "oh well, all checks out mate, take it easy and drive safe, make sure you get those mods fixed up. have a nice night" then winked at the family and they jumped in there car and sped off, wheels spinning lol good times, gotta love victorian police, so much cooler than there queensland counterparts sorry if i hijacked your thread

does anybody have there stock turbo oil & coolant lines they want to part with

just visualising your cold shivvering body has made me all hot n wet bryn

if cleaning the tb doesn't help you can always try cleaning the aac valve or turning the screw counter clockwise on the aac valve to allow more air to pass through whilst it's idling.. this can also be done on the throttlebody by adjusting the screw that holds the throttlebody usually about 3% open at all times when you're not on the throttle.. after doing this it would also be advisable to reset the ecu via disconnecting then connecting the battery 30 seconds later again and let the car idle for half an hour, as per the nissan manual

actually, it's very possible.. off boost there is inherently little pressure inside the cooler piping, so nothing pushing open any leaks that may be there, but when she comes onto boost bam, pressure is going to open up that hole and enough air is going to escape to upset the system.. another thing i'd add if it turns out to be none of the above listed is the CAS, those buggers can and will f**k up from time to time and produce all sorts of weird symptoms

i've been there, i setup the WCDMA in the tower that's on the hill the biggest turbo's i've seen were at a mine out that way.. but this one was more south east of emerald, can't remember the name, there were a few of them laying in there machinery repair shop and wholey f**k they were huge, almost as heavy as picking up an RB block and accomodation out that way really does suck, and expensive too $120 a night to stay in some lice infested motel, when $100 in mackay gets you a 2 bedroom fully airconditioned hotel with cable

stock fuel rail sold to me, arrived today, pleasure doing business

lol i don't know if i'd risk 17psi through them ian.. they're still ceramic wheels at the end of the day so really they're not that much better than the original r32 items.. from what gtrboosting has said it sounds like he's more after reliability than performance, and the best way to go about this would be either to get the original turbo's rebuilt/highflowed with steel wheels or just upgrade to newer, steel wheeled turbines.. basically what i'm trying to say is, ceramic turbines are shit

on any other single turbo car chances are when the rear ceramic wheel disintegrates it's not going to take your engine with it, however with the twin turbo there is a very good chance that parts of the turbine are going to be sucked straight back into the engine, and the price of replacing one turbo skyrockets to the price of the turbine and a complete engine rebuild

i didn't really think there was any "logic" to it as such imo, i thought the tranny control unit sent a +5v signal to the engine control unit, at which stage it would seriously retard/completly cut the ignition.. the tranny control unit handles all the "thinking" or logic i guess in sydneykids terms in gear selection via a map similar to the ignition or injector maps in the ecu, using RPM and engine load (from the tps sensor) to select the correct cell.. i think a better way of getting the power FC to handle the auto transmission would perhaps be to wire the ground from the coil packs +12V supply line through a transistor with the ignition cut wire in a fashion so that when the tranny control unit sent the signal it would drop all ignition, and when it had finished shifting ignition would be restored.. only problem i could forsee with this is perhaps running rich for the instant during the gear shift, however my mates auto r34 seems to give the odd backfire on gear changes anyway.. might be worth looking into?

yeah you've got to change the guards on the r33, as geoff stated then you'll need wider offset wheels to make it look the goods, then you'll probably want to do something about the rear as it will look dicky if it isn't wide, and having a wider offset front than rear sounds dodgy imo lol..

the sensor is really only there to give you an indication of potential damage to the cat isn't it? it's really to far away from the engine to actually moniter potentially dangerouse exhaust temperatures i would've thought, and if temperatures were to rise enough to destroy the sensor i would assume that would be the least of your worries :S

ahh yeah.. slight change in post now, this control unit has a link to the main ECU doesn't it, the ecu pinout says there are 3 wires that run to the auto tranny, however doesn't say what they do.. i'm guessing RPM, TPS sensor and another one to tell the ECU to retard ignition when the auto is shifting gears.. does anybody know if an ECU out of a manual will still retard ignition / give the auto computer the required outputs when wired to run with one? or it has to be relashed with the image from an automatic skyline ECU?

hey guys, just after a general oppinion - does this look like a normal ecu out of an r32? all the skyline ecu's i've ever had to deal with before were more of a square shape than this.. it says it's out of a sedan, i've never seen one out of a sedan before but i can't really imagine them having a completly different design cheers, mark http://cgi.ebay.com.au/nissan-skyline-r32-...1QQcmdZViewItem EDIT: or is this the actual control unit for the automatic transmission?

as title says, after one of the teeth that holds in the harmonic balancer or the timing belt crank gear cheers, mark

sounds like a boost leak, is it doing it only when you hit boost or is misbehaving all the time? if it's all the time then let the engine idle and have a listen for any suspiciouse hissing noises around the intake piping.. if it's only doing it when boosting then chances are the increase in intake pressure is pushing apart one of the hoses in the engine bay, which will be alot harder to find unless you can boost it on a dyno and have a look.. or just burn some rubber with the bonnet up

so i take it you're sure the injectors are firing properly now? maybe pull them out and take the cas off and give it a spin too verify that they are properly working.. after having the coil packs sitting in water for so long perhaps the springs that sit inbetween the bottom of the coil pack and the spark plug have become corroded, try checking them out

ignorance is bliss +1 for the power FC djetro, if it is a MAP based setup that you want.. if you were willing to keep the afm's then these days i would recomend a proper chip and retune of the stock ecu, cheaper and has a few features over the power fc such as a knock vs ignition retard table, for those times when you get a dose of dodgy fuel and don't notice the knock display

about 2:20 in, wholey f**k, are they turbo's sitting on the top? i'll have a pair of them on my rb30 please

nothing... it's still just a gtt with a gtr engine in it at the end of the day, there's still quite a few other things separating the gtt from the gtr model.. it's a pretty easy engine swap and certainly backyard doable

not a chance lol

yeah cam's don't need to come out so i wouldn't worry about that, the head can be layed flat against the ground without worrying about valves touching, however i would suggest wrapping it up in an old beach towel or something to keep it out of the elements for peace i minds sake