aphid

geoff you're a machine

would you be interested in separating the tb adapter?

it all depends on your ability to tune the SAFC, but if the SAFC is tuned with acceptable air fuel ratio's and the engine isn't pinging out of it's brain, as in this case, then no.

you can get the standard ps/2 style male and female connectors from jaycar or dicksmith.. whatevers your poison really..

yeap, cyl #2 and cyl #5 are reversed to allow the studs to clear the manifold piping, you can cut the flanges off on these cylinders and flip them over and have them welded back on and you've got a direct fit save for trimming the studs so they clear... or you could just buy them like that like i did

yeah. i believe i've done something to the pre-amp, is there anything else i can do to help short of opening it up and attampting to fix any burnt tracks..? i've heard of running filters but with the range of frequencies i'm getting i feel i would also be filtering out alot of frequencies associated with the music i would like to be listening too

hey guys, in my quest thisarvo to finally knock the average plug / alternator noise i've been getting through my amp, i think i've made the situation alot worse. as it was the noise was quite loud, enough for me to leave the amp for the rear speakers & sub unplugged.. now the sound is about three times as loud and i'm also getting a humming of a much higher frequency when the motor is off, and the only thing's on are the amp and headunit. I was fidling with the amp positioning and wiring (rear 6.5" run through the amp) when I heard a bit of a pop through the sub which was when the noise got louder, and upon turning off the engine the normal buzzing alternator / plug sound disapeared and was replaced with the much higher freqency sound, definently running alot higher than any of the equipment in the car which leads me to believe that it is the headunit itself.. i swapped out amps to make sure that the RCA earth wasn't shorted out at the amp, and have isolated the sound coming from both RCA plugs (ran an ipod directly to both channels on the amp with the engine running and no noise), so i earthed both ends of both of the RCA cables , which had a negligible effect on the sound. I used the existing wire that runs with both of the RCA cables to earth it, and did not actually splice into the braid on the signal wires themselves.. I'm thinking this wire is there to stop and induced currents that the RCA plugs might pick up along there path to the boot, and probably cured my original prolem, anyway this leads me to believe that i must've somehow shorted the RCA earth at the headunit which is giving me these wicked noises through the amp.. has anybody else got any oppinions or advice on my situation? cheers and thanks in advance guys, mark.

i see your car cruising on milton road every now and then.. didn't know whois it was until now.. very nice in the flesh

jesus christ and i'm about to attempt this on a gts-t maybe i'll just pull the engine out again

3000GTO: I just want one.. now.

bad luck mate same hose i'm pissed off about right now, finished my rb25/30 conversion last week and discovered that this hose is on the verge of busting (spraying out at higher temps).. it's twice as fun to get to when you have the added height of the 30 block then you've got to deal with the brake lines being in the way and all sorts of other fun stuff

noise turned out to be the timing cover case rubbing against the head with vibrations.. really sounded bad though <insert embarresed face here>

cheers for the idea's mate, but i'm pretty sure it's internal :S some other things too note - the engine was leaking oil from around the stock oil cooler, hence pulling the intake manifold off to get it out.. anyway i also pulled out the oil pressure sensor from it and resealed the threads on it as it's a common leakage point and replaced the gasket on the actual oil cooler itself.. i also sealed the threads where i've got the oil line tapped for my vct (standard rb30 oil pressure sender spot, running an rb30det) the same way.. also noticed that when i shut the engine off (straight away almost) oil pressure SLOWLY decreased over about a space of 15 seconds, from memory it's usually gone alot faster than that.. i was thinking perhaps somewhere there is a blockage in the oil system that is preventing oil from circulating and building up pressure, perhaps i've screwed the vct oil feed in a bit to far.. oh well, tomorrow is another day, i'll test out your idea by taking off the water pump belt (run off batteries for the 4 or so seconds i have it on )

i've got the engine manual which has everything you're after.. it's pretty easy to find with a google or too, but if you feel like it add me to msn and i'll leave the transfer run overnight (it's 25mb )

Hey, Cut the story short.. Managed to spill coolant inside the engine (removed RB25 intake manifold without draining coolant.. was feeling lazy).. anyway, got most of the water out via lift pump and figured i'd let the engine burn off the rest (it was nowhere near enough to cause hydrolic lock).. so i go to fire it up and now i'm getting a horrid soft squealing sound (metal on metal).. pulled the plugs again and had a look in just then and there's moisture drops inside the engine, my question is this was nowhere near long enough to cause rust inside the bore, so should it be right to idle straight? i'm thinking the sound is the rings on the cylinder walls where the water has pushed away the oil, in which case letting the engine warm for a bit should cause the rest of the water to vaporise and problem be gone... argh, help

i should pm you some stories from highschool

aha tee hee

says the driver of an automatic perhaps i'll have to do a swap with the gf for her mx5 for the weekend.. actually, nah, the last time i let her borrow my car without my supervision she ran over a dog

same thing happened to me, crank was exactly 180 degrees (or 360, whatever way you look at it) out of phase with the cams, nfi how the hell it happened :S i could seriously swear that everything was exactly perfect when i tensioned the belt, checked time and time again, but yeah, like you say, the guy upstairs must get bored

i find when it rains, much the way worms seem to all surfice and die, vl's spin off the road into power poles and the like to suffer a similar fate

i think paulr33 has a list of models and there compatible hand controllers on his site.. better yet why don't you pick up an FC datalogit and use your laptop (if you've got one) to tune instead, so much easier

Hey baby

no doubt the r34 GTT would contain another map controlling the base timing advance/retard on the cams it controls, if you were to doctor this map effectivly perhaps it could work?

double

i sold my mx6 to a mates brother, which was in no way roadworthy.. a 6 pack later and the price of a roadworthy he had it and it was registered.. go figure :S great price on the car with respect to the current market, good luck with the sale