Nabil

While were on the topic When people refer to 'street tyres" does this also mean semi-slicks? Therefore, are M/T street radials (which are really semi slicks) considered to be street tyres?

Don't get me wrong, I'm a diehard GTR fan, but the HKS Supra runs aprrox 6.9secs (1UZ twin turbo 4.2L Stroker)

Doesn't the Keir Wilson's Willall Racing R32GTR run 8.38s? Nevertheless, congratulation on that time. Your mph is probably a low 8 sec pass anyway

What set-up are you running with that RB26...if you don't mind me asking?

R33 RB25det as aposed to a Gen 3 V8 LS1 5.7 litre has less than half the displacement makes heaps less torque and 2 less cylinders Give us credit

They are discontinued. My stock AFM is still flowing well at 240rwkw. They max out at around the 250rwkw mark

Gen 3 Clubby - V8 LS1 Their overated...but there are some beasts out there pumping over 300rwkw...lets seem them put that power to the ground!!! With 198.9rwkw on 10psi I ran 13.7 @ 105.5mph with 2.36 60ft (lots of wheel spin) The mph I got is really a 13.0 -13.2 1/4mile pass. My last run at calder I lined up a Monaro CV8Z with exhaust ectractors and cold air it ran 15.1 at 97mph...I left it standing. 200rwkw is very responsive and reliable on the street!!!

Alan Rajab doesn't touch Apexi Power FC's Take it to C&D Motorworks in Braybrook, another 20mins further. Price breakdown: Apexi Power FC - $1000 (and good luck finding one) Apexi SAFC -II - $400 (Im selling mine if interested for $250) Tuning - $250-350 Turbo-back Exhaust - $6-700 2nd hand at a wrecker Bosch 040 Pump - $205 delivered (ebay - Mick Cita) Hybrid FMIC kit - $640 delivered (ebay - Flying Performance) Boost Controller Electronic - $2-300 2nd hand " " Manual - $25 Good luck mate: I use to have all the above with a SAFC - 11 and made 211.8rwkw @ 13psi

Stole the words right out of my mouth More Power = MORE AIR + MORE FUEL If one of these is missing in the equation = DETONATION Id also use an oil cooler and surge tank to be safe...that is of course you want to drift safely...

Assuming those two cylinders are adjacent Sounds like a damaged head gasket not a blown bottom-end!

pm sent

I have decided to use "Nitrile" petrol O-rings as aposed to the SARD supplied ones. Yeah, mine must be old stock too as I also have to wire in a set new plugs. Thanks for the info guys, Cheers Bill

Correct...and they also make them for SARD.

1. Bosch 040 2. R33 GTS-T Rb25det yet to dyno (237rwkw @ 13psi maxed out my oem pump) 3. - Bolt-In Pump (took less than 45mins to install) - Noise level is louder than stock, can not hear it inside car, although you can hear it if u stand next to the boot - zero starting issue, infact the car doesn't hesistate/shudder on take-off now, (when driving slowly.) - no issue with 1/4 tank syndrome (pump was completely immeressed in fuel on 1/4 tank during installation.) PS: The trick to no in-cabin noise is to use some extra fuel hose split it down the length of the hose, unfold and wrap around the pump. Now hose clamp the cradle to the hose covered section of the pump. The rubber will absorb most of the vibration and in-turn quiten down the pump.

For f@#$K sake fellas I have done it before on a CA18 with top feed injectors. Its my first time to do a RB with side feed injectors. & I don't believe this "DIRECT BOLT-ON" crap that goes around. All I ask is for is other peoples anecdotal experiences in issues they have come across, not a step by step guide. This has turned into a Comedy Show.

Anyone???

Great...who sells new OEM rings? As nissan apparently only sells them with the injectors. Not too keen on re-using my old rings.

Its depends on how much mechanical knowlegde you have. Im a 3rd year Aerospace Engineering student and I have been playing with turbos since I was young. My moto is: If someone else can do it, well so can I. No one is born with knowledge...you attain it. With this mentality anything is possible! Kind regards, Bill

Its not rocket science! I have done it before on other cars.

Just picked up a set of Sard 550cc injectors off a mate. Bought the sard set due to a convenient price not as a result of the Nismo vs Sard debate on my other thread... Now like the other thread has anyone used these and fitted them on themselves? So far im aware that the O-ring set that comes with them is no good. Is there any other issues or dramas anyone has come across whilst installing these injectors. Collar set looks odd but hopefully it bolts onto the fuel rail. Any help with this will be much appreciated. I'll write a DIY in the tutorials as soon as I get a chance to fit them on. Cheers, Bill

Will I be recieve mine this week? Has something gone wrong with the freight?

Anyone?

Ok, has anyone out there used these manuals to rebuild an RB himself? Want to know how they went and how helpfull these workshop manuals are. Cheers, Thanks In Advance.

From what I can see the hook at the end of the plug snapped off. If my eyes are telling the truth. Then most likely this particular plug was screwed in too deep and as a result the piston would of came into contact with it a few times before breaking off. As soon as the piston hit it, it would of closed the gap on the spark plug causing your misfire. As far as plugs are concerned: Here is an example BKR6E-11 6 - referes to heat range. 11 - referes to plugs current gap size, which in this case is 1.1mm.

Engine building guide for RB engines? Namely, RB25/26/30. Does any one know of one? As all the ones I have looked into have been mainly, chev and big block type american engine oriented. There has to be one out there...