DVS JEZ

Take the cat off and check it hasnt melted. Does ur car idle fine?

4.3 is better for the drags as long as u dont have to change into 5th before crossing the finish line

From under dash there is a bolt stopping the pedal from moving towards the drivers seat. This may even be a switch. Unlock lock nut and take wiring off then wind it out till the pedal is at desired height.(same as brake pedal) then lock lock nut and put wiring back on clutch switch. Then adjust the pushrod that goes from pedal into the master cylinder. Try this and let us know

Yeah my oil pressure gauge is in my catch can cause i didnt wanna drill into my rocker cover

Try new plugs and or gap them at .8 and see f the problem is still there

On rb26s its possible to mix up the 2 connectors at back of inlet manifold which is for the coilpacks. Not sure i its the same for ur car but worth checking

Like Trent said. He has experienced carsrunnin fine but low on power and a simle swap of the crank angle sensor has gained alot of power

Pull the e haust off just before the cat. See if the cat has melted or if there is any parts of ur turbo sittingthere. I did a servce on a mostly stock r33 yesterday the guy only just bought it. Was supposed to hav beennever boosted. When i dropped the exhaust at the cat there was a shattered exhaust turbine sitting therefrm a previously blown turbo. So much fo never been boosted

haha watch out V8FUEL might be in here

cushion button is just more driver friendly

what... no .... never. for your lawnmower i would definately run V8FUEL's e85. is your lawnmower built with nitto?

most cars are different when it comes to how many turns, try turning say 3 clicks and note how many psi it increases, always best to do it in slow stages so you dont overboost. fuel economy is a weird one but, are you sure its not your heavy foot

ok cheers, ill try this this morning, to me your way makes sense, surely the heater ground would put a lot of noise/ signal interference through the system ground which is extremely sensitive. to keep on topic i got my standalone innovate from ebay, think it was $350ish

head to supercheap, even a cheap arse oil pressure gauge will be fine, the porblem is trying to get the sender to fit somewhere, if you have a filter relocater this will be easy, if not its gonna be a pain in the butt

aaahahaahaha, wtf?

the CAS would of been a prick to diagnose, how did you work that one out Trent?

yeh i tried the delta an1 - an2, doesnt seem to work for me, so i just use an1 and have tried to calibrate it to read the same as the gauge, but under WOT it doesnt seem to be the same, i have tried different earths but the instructions and their website say u must try to connect all earths to one lug, even the signal and heater grounds together. i have it working now with the gauge but every now and then it freaks out and i have to jack the car up take the 02 sensor out and do a free air calibration then refit.

Doo Doo said in the 2nd post that the synchros dont hold gears in? i thought the detents (little balls) held the selector fork rod in place once fully engaged. so it might be possible as doo doo said,that the detent as shown in his pics might be getting stuck at certain sections of the selector rod.

the inner end you will need 2 big shifters on 30mm spanners, you need to cut the wire off the inner boots and move the boot away so you can gain access to the inner, then using both shifters turn anticlockwise one will release, keep undoing the loose one untill you can gain access to the inner lug, then using a 17mm spanner hold the inner lug ( which is inside the loosened inner, it has 2 flat spots to grip the 17mm spanner) and using the big shifter undo the other side inner, this is how i did it on my r32 GTR, im sure yours will be very similar

so your cams failed, put the stock ones back in

i recently bought a innovate LC 1 and XD16 gauge. had some trouble getting it to work, it was my battery causing this, after a new battery it was much better, ive had a few issues with it getting stuck on the heat up phase, ive had to remove it and recalibrate it 3 times in 3 weeks, the LOGWORKS program that comes with it wont load has a missing mts error, said to reinstall it so i did, still wont work still has mts error. i have connected the anologue outputs into my datalogit for a wideband reading on my laptop while tuning. i have tried alot of different configurations to get it reading the same as the XD16 gauge(digital) i can get it even at idle but when under load the guage reads richer than the datalogit, other than that the innovate is good makes me worry that the readings im getting are actually correct,

i think in the op it already had the turbo on it, he just installed camtech cams and it lost power. the obvious things to check, cam timing and if you put cam gears on it, try adjusting these, check compression may also show if the cam timing is out of wack

i spoke to just jap today, they said they had a bad batch a while ago, now they think i have a 300zx one instead by accident, i need my car this week end so i cut mine in half, grinded it to make it the correct shape, turned down the brass spacer/washer and welded it back together in the correct spot, gonna test it all out tonight, i also noticed the lock bar is shorter than the original steering rack and when i tried to get the toe correct by eye i only have 3 threads left, no way im gonna drive it like that, so i pulled it all back apart and have made some 14mm spacers where the inner tie rods screw into the lock bar, this should give me a safe thread engagement now and get the toe correct safely, just jap are sending me a different bypass on monday so when i recieve it i will let you guys know if it fits

have you done a compression test on your engine lately?

good to hear its fixed,