zanda

there's not a wing in the world that could 'out-big' cam's wing. it's big enough that you cant see it when you look out the rear view mirror.

Managed to make it down with Cam (Caminperth). Was pretty impressed with the general efforts, especially GOTBOOST. Changed my perception of the RB20 for ever, i think. Managed to meet a few of you guys too, though my capacity for retention of names is RS, so I have promptly forgotten whom (usually about 5 times is a good consistent conversion rate).

need ride I keep threatening joel that Im gonna take the millenium falcon on a SilviaWA cruise. haha. crusty R30 bizniss.

I think women and seamen don't mix, sir.

yeah, I was wondering what happenned to this prposal. Josh from SilviaWA posted something about it on here yonks ago and I can't even find the thread anymore.

you are partly right predator. in terms of a room, with a large air volume and semi-infinite space, the location of a sub is not "as essential". However, within a car, the primary governance in terms of the effectiveness of bass drivers is the relationship between active and passive wave cancellation. wavelengths for bass travel are typically in the order of 3m. as governed by c=f x lambda (assuming c=3.3, and f=80 Hz mean). for the best amplitude response, the listener should be positioned at the anti-node of the source. in terms of a woofer driver, this amounts to a multiple of the wavelength. In short, the MOST CONSISTENT way of acheiving this is to direct the driver toards the back f the trunk. this allows reflecion of the sound wave off rear boot surface (approximately 0.5m) and then travel from the boot to the front of the vehicle cabin (about 2.5m, depending on the car). this method typically produces best resullts for single driver setups in sedan sized vehicles in terms of SPL. some experimentation may be necessary to determine whether the sound is better when the driver is facced into the LH or RH corner or directly backwards.

see avatar. other pics available, but nothing much more than the gold rims to rave about. For first prize in the import broker poetic licence stakes, can anyone tell me the name of the company that makes the "aftermarket" factory option bodykit?

sorry about that. I thought it would be equally rude to start a new thread on the same topic.

yup. sounds familiar. he did the same thing to me. Just out of interest Andrew, how long have you had to wait since disembarking from the wharf.

I need tyres for next week. I need to get some dot rated tyres for compliancing/registration. Rather than buy new tyres for the rims on the car, Im looking for someone willing to sell the stock rims with passable dot-rated tyres on them. Maybe someone who recently bought new rims or suchlike?! Ive also heard that Holden or Commodore rims may fit on an R33-t. same PCD/offset. can anyone confirm this? If you have some wheels/tyres with a dot rating lying around that you'd like to trade for folding stuff, pm me

Andrew, I had some troubles with Cam's broker too, but found this guy to be marginally more helpful. the price he quoted me was also pretty competetive. Fletcher Insurance Brokers John Fletcher 9525-5497 [email protected] Im in the same situation as you though. John's supposed to be getting back to me to confirm. Is your car in Aus yet? or are you one of the people waiting for the Divvy. Stupid slow boat.

Id be really grateful if anyone can provide more info on this. Iv got a 15 in my existing motor (R30 hatch) and am getting my new 33 in a few days. I want to mount the speak facing the boot, vertically if possible, as this has given me a really good result in my current car. I will also be looking into getting a second amp and a 10 in the near future. the fifteen is perfect for the tunes I listen to, bt there's a hole in my bass response at about 130Hz. I want to mount the subs facing the back of the boot with the amps on a rack flusk with the tyre well. any advice on the depth etc of the r33 boot would be gratefully appreciated.

:bahaha: I fink you might be missing the point. 1. Here is gallery full of pretty pictures. 2. Here is the reason to look at them. Drifting is as much about skill as it is about big bollocks. these mountains are the roots of the sport and the curves and bends therein are the training grounds for some of the best known Japanese drifting teams. "do you have big bollocks? can I touch them?"

the pro dritfing circuit does much to glamorise nippon drifting. whack vids. cool 80s jackets. screaming commentators. bizniss. but drift in its purest sense is about young kids with no money buying old fast cars and racing them through the japanese mountains in the rain. came across this link the other day. shows the mountains, curve by curve, in "all they heavenlee glowree". Mountain drft gallery

true, but it is a nissan Ive never even seen before apart from in photos. one ratty turbs is potentially a fair bit of spondooly.

Try asking the compliance workshop?!? apart from anything else, they will need to know in order to schedule work at that time. For reference, I was told 10 working days - so about 2 weeks from landing to "on the road"

Ive heard about numeric keypad immobilisers available from Jaycar,which stop you starting the car until you have punched in a pin number. apparently these are pretty cheap, too. this would then work as a second immobiliser - so that even if they have your keys they cant start the car without the pin.

haha. yah, THINKING about royal 1 year or three years. probably with the "optional" cover. not sure if it's worth the 700/nearly 900 dolas though.

bump. could use some more advice on this. I need to make a decision in the next day or two.

Im in the process of getting a vehicle through PMS. It hasnt landed yet, but I can offer the following info: 1. Like any service, you only appear to get out what you need, but not necessarily much more. PMS is, probably for the better, set up so that all you have to do is tell geoff you want the vehicle, and then pay for it along the way. He is extremely helpful and very patient, and has been more than happy to answer any query that I have had. 2. Sometimes, and I suspect that this is true for all broker services, it may benefit you to know more information than geoff would provide to you, UNLESS YOU ASK! like when the next boat leaves japan, who is storing the vehicle in the mean time, whether the car can be test driven and what the actual cost of compliance is depending on your state etc. My advice is to ask as much as possible, so that you are informed about the whole process. Avoid letting yourself feel like you're wasting time asking trivial questions because at the end of the day, the fees for import brokerage and duties, gst etc. are actually about 60-70% of the overall cost of a twenty thou vehicle. 3. on a personal note, my car was broken into in japan whilst waiting to be shipped. this would have been covered entirely by wharf insurance, provided that repairs are performed in japan. only catch is - -> it NEEEDs to get on the boat before the repairs can be done. subsequently I will end up paying for the fitment of new locks and possibly some minor bodywork once the vehicle has landed. Geoff has been very good through this process, and I get the feeling that he has extended himself beyond his professionsal relationship with his contact in Japan would typically permit to satisfy me that everything that could be done has been done. Assuming that my new broom does not have any more badness befall it, i would say that if I had to go through the process again, I would still go through Geoff. At the end of the day, I will have a vehicle on the road for about $5000 less than the 'market' value through a dealer. HOWEVER, I would also add, that you should not aim to spend your budget on the car, but try to spend about $2000 less which you can keep as a contingency. at the end of the day, the vehicle is cheaper because you assume the risk of bad stuff happening, like some ahole busting your door locks and you having to pay for the repairs, insterad of paying someone else to. So be aware that bad stuff does happen. I see no reason why it would be better to go through someone in your state, unless it's to keep phone bill costs as low as possible, but I would suggest finding out the cost of compliance plates in your state prior to bidding onn/purchasing a vehicle to avoid any surprises, especially if you want to get something before the SEVS changeover.

Im currently in the process of aquiring a shiny new silver gts25t, and am wondering whether to purchase a warranty. On the one hand I am aware of some glaring ommissions that some warranties have (clutch plates, radiators etc), however I cant help but feel that I should have some 'insurance' against the fact that I have never even seen the vehicle. Anyone have any opinoins/experiences on the used car warranties out there? (btw, I looked for another thread on this topic but could not find one. if such a thing exists, I apologise)