Simon and Harold. Leave the PE2 well enough alone. Its nice for the fit but the rear can is a massive power robber. I picked up 20rwkw by changing the rear can to a "drift" item. Hard to believe but true.
Plenty, the rest of them own Commo utes with Kenwood, Mack, Cat or other truck mudflaps with the rear window covered in stickers of places and B&S balls that they never went to.
260 is the only option. I have 500rwhp and still get 380-400 per tank which in my mind is pretty economical. But if you are looking at an Autech the fuel money shouldnt worry you anyway.
Ive been peddling mine around town on low boost (18psi) and have only let it go a few times. 330kms with just under a quarter left in the tank. Im wrapped. Should get 400kms to the tank around town.
Thanks Yudy.
I will probably pick up an A4 S-Line. 2lt turbo 4wd 6 speed manual. I drove an A6 around for week in Sydney and liked the power of, the handling and it had fantastic fuel economy. We just had the Audi roadshow up here so I took out a Q7 for the weekend. They are just great quality vehicles as a whole.
I did a full rebuild and upgraded the turbos, cams, wheels, injectors, afms, sump, pumps, ic, oil cooler everything all at the same time. 14psi is reached around 4600rpm with 23psi coming in around 5000 so its a bit of a light switch.
I know that my turbos are the N1 Group A, same AR's as what you have stated. The advice you have received is incorrect or there are different boost levels being quoted.
Usual FOB charge: $1100
Usual ship charge: $1400
+ Car cost.
Then add 15%
Then add 10% GST
Cleaning of vehicle, can vary greatly. Have paid $800 previously
Clearance of vehicle. Varies again. Can be $1000.00
Storage of vehicle if required (usually happens)
Movement of vehicle on docks $350
Movement of vehicle to comp. Depends.
Then we move to compliance.
This is a very dark area. For a 260 base cost is $4500 + tyres. If there are things wrong they are on top as are the brake pads (people may be wondering why i keep going about this?? They can be very expensive for factory pads on the brembos)
Then you pay stamp, rego, and insurance.
Ive been doing this for a while, this is a realistic approach, this is the reason that your 8.3kUS car ends up being a $25k+ AUD car. On top of this figure I would usually add 10% for safety prior to pricing a customer.
This is another reason to find the right car and work the budget around it, not to have a strict budget and find a car to suit it.
Once again thanks for your input.
More importantly I was never trying to compare my car to a standard one, so not sure where John was going with that. I just did the numbers on the 8.3k US vehicle based on the costs for the last car I bought in (JZX100 TRD Chaser) and it works out to be around 25kaud assuming there are no brake pads to replace.
Thanks everyone for the balanced view on the subject.
I am only 32 but have owned and driven high power cars for the last 11 years or so, they are just losing their appeal. Good luck with yours though, hope itnever breaks on you.
331kws, still plenty of power but a nice cruising car that wont attract too much attention. Realisticly I will be looking at an A4 sedan "S" line version, they are going fairly cheap (if you could call it that) for an 06 ex demo model.
I too have had experience with the Euros. The car will be leased under my company and serviced by the company.
You obviously havent had too much go wrong with your RB, wait until it does and yo too will find out the real cost of ownership.
Why sell it? Well I am getting a bit older and my interest is stupidly fast cars (which I can tell this one is) is starting ta wane, and driving an A6 around for a week and then stepping into a 4.2ltr Q7 for the weekend ws nice. Having a drive of an RS4 wagon, A8 (cant offord) and a V10 S6 next week which will be fun. The M5 is an old fav though.