Spoolup

I have 2 fully assembled reco'd, ported and polished, big cam heads available and one complete not reco'd head as well. All covers, plenum, throttle bodies, injector plate etc are available also. email [email protected] for info. Cheers

contact me. We might be able to do a deal on set of rods for some other parts [email protected] Cheers

WTB: Power FC D-Jetro for R32/R33 GTR email: [email protected]

thats 3 words

It is the cam gear on the inlet side that operates the VVT - so removing it or the camshaft itself will stop the VVT. You can run a std cam in the inlet with a std cam gear or adjustable one ( so you can use the STD rb20 cover etc ) but you will lose the vvt option.

Awesome Result Bernie. I too am interested in the fuel you are using.

I thought I was being constructive. I have used Performance Springs in three different engines and never had a problem. Current engine turns to 8000 rpm everyday - numerous times.

Performance valve springs are good and usually in stock.

NEO has a smaller combustion chmaber so R33 pistons will produce a high ( as in too high ) a comp ratio. Exhaust manifold is the same stud pattern. OEM gaskets - some will be different, like valve stem seals etc - but most should be same as R33

Steve from Maytech Performance in Perth is the VQ30 guru - he puts them in lots of different cars and has custom bell housings etc

Im hoping to be selling them in a package deal with rods and pistons to suit. ( Either std length rod and custom piston or vise versa ) I had been thinking about it for a while and it was Kyle who got me back on track with the idea. Once I get the RB30 crank sorted I want to do one for the RB26 and so on. You guys must have a shed full of old race motors by now :-)

The VQ30DET is a V6 isnt it ?

I wont see the first sample until the early new year - then Ill have to build a trial engine :-) But hoping to be selling them earlish next year .

Cubes - they will be a stroker crank for the RB30 block - aiming for 3.4 litre. Billet forged 4340 with wide oil pump drive.

There is minimal extra work involved to build the RB30DET compared to the RB25DET - so the price should be comparative to a RB25DEt build. Im not sure exactly what that would be as I do my own work but you get the idea.

you have a blown headgasket

ok cheers - are they running rb26 rods or a custom rod ? Dont get caught up in the reving thing - Twin turbo 5.7 litre holdens make 750 rwkw (1000 rwhp) and redline at 6 - 6.5k. XR6 Fords are making 600rwkw plus with similar redline. Big revs dont apply to forced induction so much as opposed to NA engines. Cubes count :-)

funny - the rb30 seems to fit in S13. S14, R32 and R33 no probs. Shop around - its an easy conversion for the R34 - I will be doing it in my R34 GT4 next year, there is heaps of room - might put two of them in there :-)

your turbo is rooted

What are the specs for the OS giken 3 litre set up ? Stroke ? Rod length ( centre to centre ) ? I am designing a stroker crank for the RB30 engine and want a comparison for rod length / stroke ratio. Hoping for around the 3.4 to 3.5 litres out of the RB30 Any info appreciated. Cheers

If the GTR cams are better ( bigger lift and duration ) then the R34 GTT cams, prob best to go with the GTR cams. As in there std from they are still very streetable. You will easily be able to make the power you want with them. Std cams are a pleasure to drive around with compared to say the 272's I have. You get the streetability with the std cams and also the great fuel economy. My car has the fuel economy of a 6.0 litre holden around town and then it gets much worse when boosting :-). It is also a dog to drive under 2000 rp. Big cams will make more power but you definitely lose down low drivability and off boost fuel economy.

Thats an urban myth if your referring to the R33 VCT head, as the valve stems and lengths are different sizes, the guides are different, the springs are different . With major mods it can be done but it would be a pointless exercise and cheaper to buy a RB26 head.

The easiest way - not nessassarily the cheapest - is to put the NEO head on the RB30 bottom end and use the STD loom with a Power FC.

The exhaust lifters arent aluminium but are titanium from memory. NEO lifters are overhead shim, as opposed to RB26 which are under shim. The lift issue has nothing to do with clearence problems, but is to do with the position of the lifter oil feed gallery that runs the length of the head. If the lifter is pushed down too far ( ie big lift cams ) the oil gallery is exposed and you end up with no oil pressure in your head. So there is a limit to the amount of lift that can be run when using the std lifters.

You need to figure out what 2mm off a DOHC head equates to in cc - then it is easy to calculate whether its going to be worth it.